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A rope, a rack, the pack on your back

Original Post
Joseph Shmoesf · · Yellowstone · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

Well, that’s definitely the wrong quote… I am here to ask what is the best pack to climb with on your back?
There are no wrong answers. I’ve used a bug and just a camelback… but what’s your answer? What do you like some of my friends really love Osprey packs mostly for the warranty…

4433407 k · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0
Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

The  one on your partner's back.

Chris Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15

I've been looking for one to get in preparation for a guide course. Ones I've narrowed it down to, in order of preference:

Ortovox Trad Zero 18 - looks minimal and sleek. 

Blue Ice Dragonfly 18 - looks lightweight, fairly robust, and I could it in other instances as well

Blue Ice Wadi 22 - looks super robust, some interesting features

MH Multipitch 20 - looks robust and tailormade as an on route pack

Petzl Bug - a classic for a reason

If anyone has experience with these (specifically the Blue Ice's or Ortovox), I'd love to hear.

Caleb BR · · Landis, NC · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 55

Can't say enough good things about the MH Scrambler series. My 35L is what I use for a day pack / on route pack, and carries well in both regards, plus it's not annoying when it's not loaded down on the actual route. 

A note: "pack on your back" is not a good strategy climbing offwidths 

Thomas Worsham · · Youngstown, OH · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 85
Chris Johnson wrote:

I've been looking for one to get in preparation for a guide course. Ones I've narrowed it down to, in order of preference:

Ortovox Trad Zero 18 - looks minimal and sleek. 

Blue Ice Dragonfly 18 - looks lightweight, fairly robust, and I could it in other instances as well

Blue Ice Wadi 22 - looks super robust, some interesting features

MH Multipitch 20 - looks robust and tailormade as an on route pack

Petzl Bug - a classic for a reason

If anyone has experience with these (specifically the Blue Ice's or Ortovox), I'd love to hear.

I used the Ortovox Trad 35 as my crag bag + multipitch pack for several years. for the weight and size it was surprisingly manageable as a climbing pack with and without the aluminum frame. I would not hesitate to buy another Ortovox pack since i love my old one so much.

I know some people who tried the MH pack and didnt love it but I have no experience with it so I cant give much of a review.

Casey J · · NH · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

I have the dragonfly 25 - it's super lightweight. Carry is eh as the back is just a removable foam sheet, so not much support (common at the lightweight level I'd imagine). Durable enough for the multi's I've dragged it up. Not that full featured pocket-wise if you're looking for flexibility (just the one in the front). Rope carry is fine, capacity is fine. Water bottle holder somewhat demands a certain shape, but this is all acceptable given how light it goes. It's a good basic pack with good tool loop options, but that's about it. If that sounds perfect, great, if not, look into other packs. 

Personally, I grabbed a Deuter guide that's a bit bigger as I was willing to compromise size/weight for more features, but haven't climbed in it yet. 

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Are people using 16+L packs using them for approach too? I can’t imagine carrying more than a 16L on route for an “in a day” route. 1 because bulk, 2 because dork factor

Caleb BR · · Landis, NC · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 55
John Clark wrote:

Are people using 16+L packs using them for approach too? I can’t imagine carrying more than a 16L on route for an “in a day” route. 1 because bulk, 2 because dork factor

I've never denied being a dork... 

But I carry my gear in the backpack I climb in. Generally, I'm not gonna hike another route pack in just to not look like a dork on a climb. Plus, you'd have to carry your approach pack out with you if you're walking off  the top. That's why I try to use an approach pack that can be carried comfortably / smaller during the route. 

Nate Nathanaelson · · Squarebanks, AK · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 106
Caleb BR wrote:

A note: "pack on your back" is not a good strategy climbing offwidths 

Yep, all about the sack between your legs.

Anywho, I’ve had a 8 dollar pack I bought at Walmart in 2018 that I still use for multipitches. It’s been drug and bashed in chimneys, and, while abraded, it’s still going strong.

Chris Gardner · · Golden, CO · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 5

I love my wild country syncro. Cheap, the roll top compresses well for climbing, and it's fairly light. IMO climbing backpacks are a wear item and you should expect that it's going to get destroyed no matter how durable it is, so cheap and replaceable is better than expensive and 'durable'. Those metolius packs with the haul bag fabric look good though, just heavy.

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187
John Clark wrote:

Are people using 16+L packs using them for approach too? I can’t imagine carrying more than a 16L on route for an “in a day” route. 1 because bulk, 2 because dork factor

I used a 25L for years, it did not really limit my climbing that much. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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