Top-roping options in Vermont?

Hi all!

I'll be in Vermont this weekend with a friend who doesn't know how to lead belay but can top-rope belay! I'm not comfortable teaching her how to safely give me a catch with just the two of us out there, but we'd like to get out on rock. My questions:

1) Is there a crag (preferably in Southern/mid Vermont) that has an option where we can scramble to the top to set up anchors? I'm thinking something similar to Quincy Quarries, or Rose Ledge in Farley. I'm comfortable setting up sport, natural, and gear anchors! This is a crag I was looking at: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107604556/jamaica Can anyone give me beta on what the walk off is like?

2) How are the conditions up there? Should we stick to bouldering? And if so, whereabouts? 

Thanks in advance! And happy mud season:)

I'm not super familiar with the rope climbing options in Southern Vt, but I can recommend you go boulder in Bromley. It has great high density bouldering (around 300 problems I think) on quality rock, with mostly good landings!

Jamaica is a fun little crag. Walk off is super easy. Easy to set top ropes on most things I've climbed there. If you're into bouldering, Bromley is probably a better option.

Check out Deer Leap by Rutland. Walk around for TRs from 5.4-5.10+

Lake Dumore is an option, mostly a short top-rope place, is super pretty in the summer, as well as a great pace for non climbers. Bromely and Deer Leap are fine choices  as well.

Second lake dunmore crags

I would second deer leap

Third, deer leap is totally what you are looking for 

deer leap has a couple high quality routes for beginners. dunmore has many more climbs but nothing super memorable, it’s just a pleasant and accessible place. 

Deer leap dries quickly and has top rope anchors.  south western exposure. beautiful views. 

Thanks everyone! Gonna check out Deer Leap :) Happy climbing!

Deer leap is a sick spot, but Jamaica is a much more mellow spot in terms of approach, setting up top ropes and the actual climbs. Also there are some fun boulder problems so you could easily TR and boulder. If your partner is a real beginner I think you’ll probably have more fun there. 

Ah, good point Joseph. She's pretty new to outdoor climbing but has a ton of stoke and enthusiasm! Was looking at Vermont Rock by Travis Peckham and couldn't find anything for the Jamaica crag. Are there more climbs than what's listed here on MP? 

Appreciate all of the advice so far! Vermont and Vermonters are great!

Joseph’s reasons for Jamaica are similar to why I think Dunmore could be better. It’s somewhat tough to get up and around at DL depending on where you are on the cliff and if you haven’t been there you won’t know. If you hike to the top you’ll have to show your friend how to rappel or lower them. It’s definitely worth going to and it’s not the hardest thing to figure out but there are some blocky boulders at the base that can be a bit intimidating to get up. At least i have felt that way on occasion with my full pack. Maybe other people feel differently. It’s an awesome place and maybe just worth the inconvenience as well.

But at Dunmore walking around any cliff is trivial although you may need long cord for tr anchors. at least give it a look in the guide. it’s a popular beginner group crag for a reason. 

The Walk around at the leap is easy enough. It's on the north, climbers left end of the cliff. The. Tree is perhaps the best beginner climb in the north east without going to the Gunk's. Finding the anchor for the tree is not too hard. From climbers left to right the Tree, standard RT anchor is the fourth anchor to the right, south. If you have Travis,s book the topos are good except for celibacy which is drawn incorrectly. 

UP Nguyen wrote:

Ah, good point Joseph. She's pretty new to outdoor climbing but has a ton of stoke and enthusiasm! Was looking at Vermont Rock by Travis Peckham and couldn't find anything for the Jamaica crag. Are there more climbs than what's listed here on MP? 

Appreciate all of the advice so far! Vermont and Vermonters are great!

There are way more easy climbs at Jamaica than listed on mp. Also more than Deer leap. Jamaica has at least 10 climbs 5.3-5.7. Deer leap is rad and I’d say more fun to visit with a climber that’s comfortable scrambling around and climbing outdoors. However if you are teaching new people to climb Jamaica is hard to beat. The approach is gymlike and there is almost never anyone there. For the easy tr climbs walk past the Africa shaped rock you can see from the road about 30m and you will see a trail into the woods follow that about 100m up past some builders to a fun 15m slabby wall ive always called the sunshine wall and start there. I think a big deciding factor for you as a visitor with a new climbing should also be how far you have to drive as all spots mentioned are great. 

One other factor to consider is where you will be based. You said southern VT. Lake Dunmore is a good bit further north, and even Deer Leap is central, not southern VT. I concur with those who point out that Deer Leap, while a wonderful crag, can be quite intimidating to maneuver around, especially at the base---moss covered house size boulders with deep crevices between them. Not the best place for a novice. If you are on far southern VT, you might also consider some of the areas across the river around Keene, NH or furher south in western MA--- Rose Ledge isn't far and very much fits your requirements:

Alan Rubin wrote:

One other factor to consider is where you will be based. You said southern VT. Lake Dunmore is a good bit further north, and even Deer Leap is central, not southern VT. I concur with those who point out that Deer Leap, while a wonderful crag, can be quite intimidating to maneuver around, especially at the base---moss covered house size boulders with deep crevices between them. Not the best place for a novice. If you are on far southern VT, you might also consider some of the areas across the river around Keene, NH or furher south in western MA--- Rose Ledge isn't far and very much fits your requirements:

With the parking closures at Farley, I think the Western Mass crags are going to be a real mess this weekend. Otherwise, Rose Ledge is a great place to top rope

B G wrote:

With the parking closures at Farley, I think the Western Mass crags are going to be a real mess this weekend. Otherwise, Rose Ledge is a great place to top rope

I agree. I am now able to enjoy the luxury of being retired, so am able to avoid Farley ( and other such popular locations) on the weekends!!! Still doubt that Rose will be that crowded.

interesting how soft the climbing community has become..  Non climbers scramble up and down the climbers approach trail at Deer Leap daily in far greater numbers than actual climbers.. yes there are occasional meltdowns but for the most part they get it done. 

Thanks all! I've been to Rose Ledge three times now (actually took this friend on one of those trips so she's also seen it) so hoping to try out some place new and we are definitely looking for something in Vermont :) Leaning Jamaica because she's expressed interest in learning more anchor skills, and it seems like a more low-key day if we go there. Plus, boulders! Thanks all for the beta, it's super appreciated