ISO Outdoor Climbers who use Approach Shoes!

Hi there! I work in footwear and wanted to connect with outdoor climbers who have experience using approach shoes. I wanted to learn more about what situations warrant packing/using approach shoes for a climbing trip and possibly see if you'd be interested in testing some out. TIA!

sending over a message!

I work as a guide in the Red River Gorge most of the year and regularly hike and climb in approach shoes, what you wanna know?

Sent a message 

i've always been confused about what is an approach shoe. Is it: 

a) something compact/light enough to clip to your harness on multipitch

b) something to big wall in

c) something with sticky rubber that you can comfortably do 4th/5th class in

d) something you can rapidly take on and off when sport climbing

e) any non-technical-climbing shoe made by a "core" climbing brand (laspo, scarpa, bd, etc...)

f) something that you think  visually shows other people you are a  climber

as far as i can tell,  (e) or (f) is probably the best definition...

I use them to approach the gym from my car so that everyone knows I mean business.

"I wanted to learn more about what situations warrant packing/using approach shoes for a climbing trip"

"learn more" - lol
that sentence means you know nothing about approach shoes currently. Troll or really off-brand company looking to sell knock off "approach shoes".

Matt N wrote:

"I wanted to learn more about what situations warrant packing/using approach shoes for a climbing trip"

"learn more" - lol
that sentence means you know nothing about approach shoes currently. Troll or really off-brand company looking to sell knock off "approach shoes".

Nah, this is one of the first steps in a proper design/experience program. First you identify a potential target market, then you research existing definitions and products, then you start connecting with actual users to determine relative importance of features as well as important sub-features that people like/dislike. Given the wide spectrum of items called "approach shoes", you may come in confused as to what makes a good one. 

For example, how important is weight vs. comfort? Do you want two pulls, one or none on the back? Do you need a loop to clip a carabiner? How compressible should they be? Does it have to be lace closure? Do they typically get wet?

Going around shitting on people asking questions is a good way to end up with products that aren't actually built for a climbers needs. 

Would love to see Altra style approach shoes on the market.  Zero drop, wide toe box with sticky rubber, but more durable than Altras 

You won't be jamming in them, but a wide box after feet have been in climbing shoes all day is heaven.

I use approach shoes almost all the time.  My GF climbs a good bit lower grades than me, so I hike to the crag and usually anything 5.8 and under just leave them on. 

Five Ten Guide Tennies and La Sportiva TX2

Brad Johnson wrote:

I use approach shoes almost all the time.  My GF climbs a good bit lower grades than me, so I hike to the crag and usually anything 5.8 and under just leave them on. 

Five Ten Guide Tennies and La Sportiva TX2

I concur that an approach  shoe has to have good enough rubber,   And fit well enough that  you can climb at least 5.8 in it. I only wear my shoes to approach climbs and or climb because I want them to last.

The most important qualities of an approach shoe, for me, are sticky rubber, durability, and comfort. If you want to see what works well in an approach shoe look at the La Sportiva Tx4 and Tx2. Most of the time I wear my approach shoes because there is some level of technicality on the approach and I need sticky rubber to not slip on 4th-5th class terrain. Packability is nice but not imperative for me, so long as there is a loop to clip. I can clip the shoes to my harness. 

I'm curious to see if the OP will return to this thread to comment.

5.10 guide tennies …. Like they were 10 years ago… copy those and you might just sell a ton of shoes.

Gud luck 

FrankPS wrote:

I'm curious to see if the OP will return to this thread to comment.

They joined yesterday just to make this post….smells too much like a bot.

With that said, I still am adamant that vans are one of the most underrated approach shoe out there (excluding any technical climbing above 5.8). 

IMO trail runners with sticky rubber are way better than approach shoes for actual approaches. They are more comfortable for hiking, which is what the majority of approaching consists of. People will be like "I can climb up to 5.10 in my approach shoes" but how often do you actually need to do that? The sticky rubber you can get on shoes like the LS Bushido or Hoka Speedgoat is more than enough for 4th class and low 5th.

Approach shoes are great if you wanna solo something easy-moderate and don't want to bring a change of shoes for the walkoff. Or do some aid climbing. But for doing an approach, trail runners are better.

Matt Wetmore wrote:

IMO trail runners with sticky rubber are way better than approach shoes for actual approaches. They are more comfortable for hiking, which is what the majority of approaching consists of. People will be like "I can climb up to 5.10 in my approach shoes" but how often do you actually need to do that? The sticky rubber you can get on shoes like the LS Bushido or Hoka Speedgoat is more than enough for 4th class and low 5th.

Approach shoes are great if you wanna solo something easy-moderate and don't want to bring a change of shoes for the walkoff. Or do some aid climbing. But for doing an approach, trail runners are better.

I love climbing in my approach shoes.  Comfortable, spices it up slightly, and just way easier.  Could I switch them out yah, but it's just nice not to. 

Haha appreciate all the responses and climbers who reached out! Not a bot and I'm a recreational indoor climber whose done only minimal outdoor bouldering that happens to be along big hikes. I have climber friends who live in various places, but not all call for approach shoes, e.g. Austin TX where Chacos will get you from the car to your spot without problem. My understanding of climbers is even as technical as the sport is, preferences still dominate; if someone can get by with their 8 year old sneakers with holes in them, then they will. Casey J. explained it perfectly- here to learn, humble myself and be authentic by listening to actual climbers, and have fun in the process! I'll be responding to those who have DM'd me! Even if you're not the target size, would love to keep in touch for future focus groups or local meet ups. Thank you in advance for the patience, knowledge, and good vibes :) 

Sep M wrote:

Are these approach shoes going to turn out to be CBD gummies?

hahah sorry to disappoint....

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

They joined yesterday just to make this post….smells too much like a bot.

With that said, I still am adamant that vans are one of the most underrated approach shoe out there (excluding any technical climbing above 5.8). 

Posted my response above! Totally understand how sus that looked haha. But your comment on Vans being an underrated approach shoe- THIS is one of the reasons I reached out to learn more. Personal preference is so important, and people like what they like (especially if it's one less purchase and works just fine). Some climbers just don't need approach shoes based on the terrain or have just become accustomed to using what they already have. Love that you pointed this out! To each their own :) 

Rosemary Tran wrote:

Posted my response below! Totally understand how sus that looked haha. But your comment on Vans being an underrated approach shoe- THIS is one of the reasons I reached out to learn more. Personal preference is so important, and people like what they like (especially if it's one less purchase and works just fine). Some climbers just don't need approach shoes based on the terrain or have just become accustomed to using what they already have. Love that you pointed this out! To each their own :) 

Glad you’re not a bot…or at least one that engages with its human counterpart. FWIW I only like my vans because the rubber is so soft on rock. If I’m going over tree roots and rhododendrons then I’ll probably prefer a more traditional approach shoe.