I'm falling repeatedly from not too high (10' maybe) on dyno where both feet cut and I have to hold on with only my left hand (on a good hold) but the resulting swing backwards causes me to fall. So I land with my body at a 45 degree angle to the ground, facing downward. Kinda like this:
head
/
/
/
feet
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The result is severe dorsiflexion of my ankles...it hurts and feels like I'm going to eventually sprain one/both of them. (Dorsiflexion is like bending your toes upward toward your knee.)
Is it ever a "thing" to tape your ankles preventatively to add support to them? None of the moves on the boulder requires a lot of ankle mobility, so I don't think it would hamper my performance. I know gymnasts tape their ankles, but I think that's more for lateral support rather than back/front support.
I don't have any articles just my personal experience. I have extremely weak ankles from repreated injuries playing soccer as a child. I've tried taping my ankles and it's never helped, it's just restricted my ability to react to the terrain.
Two things have been key for me:
Lighten your gear as much as possible. This will make it much easier for you to adjust your footing if an ankle starts to roll.
Stop and rest when you are fatigued. 99% of the times I've rolled my ankle hiking is at the end of the hike because I'm too tired to concentrate.
Bots aside.. did you ever send the project? Did you tape/ brace at all?
I did tape. I shaved both calves and then taped from beneath my foot (ie, the sole) around the back of the heel and up my calf. This prevented hyper dorsiflexion. However, I eventually ended up changing my beta in a way where I wasn't taking that fall any longer. Send footage is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhsN-VToSa4