Rope Recommendations for Bolting

Hi there,

I am new to bolting outdoor climbing routes. I am located in Alabama, but I would like some recommendations on what rope everyone uses to bolt outdoor routes.

I understand there's some degree of subjectivity but I would like to hear different opinions. I recognize there are different types: dynamic, low-stretch, and static ropes. I am leaning more towards a low-stretch or full static rope but if you could share good brands and mm, any information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

An old rope. You will destroy it.

If you are going ground up and LRS, you need a dynamic cause your still leading. 

If you are going top down and jugging, static. A beefy one cause ya, you will put some wear on it quickly.

I’ve used old dynamic, semi-static, and static caving rope. If you’re going top down, they all work. Only difference I’ve found is how much attention you need to pay to rebelaying off anchor points to avoid rubbing. Right now I just use whatever is the most cost effective since they get beat up pretty quick. 

Whatever rope you can bum off your local climber groups - people are happy to donate their "retired" ropes.

Any old rope.  Don't buy a rope specific for bolting, that would just be pissing money away.  

Hey Zachary,

Sorry, with all due respect, but any of the posters above that suggested an old dynamic or retired rope have not done much bolting outdoors. Check the profiles and contributions of the posters and you’ll see who knows their stuff. Get a 60m (200 ft) 10mm static rope and you’re set. Remember to pad any sharp/rough edges and that 10mm static will out last several dynamic ropes. The static makes jugging much more efficient. 

There's more than one way to bolt a cat, Benjamin. I know folks who have been bolting for decades and use old dynamic ropes. Others use static lines. The life of a "retired" dynamic line that would otherwise go into landfill isn't a concern for me - but if I'm leaving a line up for a season then yes I would probably use my static. Also the jugging efficiency doesn't really matter to me if I'm jugging up <30m, but everyone will have their preference.

For someone new to it, I do think the less money you invest in new gear while you're learning the better.

Benjamin Chapman wrote:

Hey Zachary,

Sorry, with all due respect, but any of the posters above that suggested an old dynamic or retired rope have not done much bolting outdoors. Check the profiles and contributions of the posters and you’ll see who knows their stuff. Get a 60m (200 ft) 10mm static rope and you’re set. Remember to pad any sharp/rough edges and that 10mm static will out last several dynamic ropes. The static makes jugging much more efficient. 

Too funny

Never tried to bolt a cat, Red. I suspect the ASPCA and PETA might take issue with that. I too know folks that have been bolting for years that swear by static and others dynamic. Moot point. Yes, Kevin it is funny the way posters go off topic to satisfy their inner demons. Exactly why Supertopo is gone. You refer a dynamic rope and I prefer a static for the same purpose. Now Zachary has some good advice.

Edit: Some very good points, Ski. Thx.

I don’t like to use static ropes. You can’t bounce around and do the moves of a route to figure out where the best place for the bolts will be as well. I just use whatever rope I have laying around. I’ll use the oldest beat up ones when working with glue. Honestly, buying a new rope once or twice a year shouldn’t be an issue. 

Benjamin Chapman wrote:

Never tried to bolt a cat, Red. I suspect the ASPCA and PETA might take issue with that. I too know folks that have been bolting for years that swear by static and others dynamic. Moot point. Yes, Kevin it is funny the way posters go off topic to satisfy their inner demons. Exactly why Supertopo is gone. You refer a dynamic rope and I prefer a static for the same purpose. Now Zachary has some good advice.

Edit: Some very good points, Ski. Thx.

Ben, new routing abuses equipment, I would hate to see someone spend a bunch of cash on a new rope only to see it core shot because they dropped a rock on it while cleaning because they didn't get the rope out of the way, stuff happens.  Most of the routes I do are in the backcountry and there is no way I am going to carry a static rope and a dynamic rope, I need a rope I can lead on when I am done bolting and cleaning the route.  

Also, don't assume you know someones experience based on their MP profile.  I rarely update my profile and I NEVER add new routes I have done.  The only FA's I have added to my MP profile are the old routes I did at WillIamson back in the day.  I don't add new areas because I don't want them overrun like Williamson was.

I think you need to read Salamanzers post again. 

 
Medusa is a good solid partner and I trust him more than anyone I climb with.

I am not sure why you made the Williamson comment, it’s been closed for 20 years but still deserves an accurate record of ascents.

To the OP,  it’s not rocket science, any old rope will do.  Just use good judgement with routes you choose to create. 

The BlueWater Assaultline 11.4 mm x 46 m static rope from Rei works great! Pulls through a gri-gri 1 and easy to tie knots in. But nothing beats a "new" retired lead rope from your friends. 

Benjamin Chapman wrote:

Hey Zachary,

Sorry, with all due respect, but any of the posters above that suggested an old dynamic or retired rope have not done much bolting outdoors. Check the profiles and contributions of the posters and you’ll see who knows their stuff. Get a 60m (200 ft) 10mm static rope and you’re set. Remember to pad any sharp/rough edges and that 10mm static will out last several dynamic ropes. The static makes jugging much more efficient. 

Bwahahahaha.

I used a retired climbing rope.  I expect that's pretty common for all but the most hard-core serious developers.

[edit] Ok, I've been through several retired climbing routes through cleaning and bolting routes, not just one.  And, no, none of it is recorded here on mp.com. [/edit]

Whatever rope, if you're doing rap bolting, the commercial rope protectors are so much nicer than old fire hose. Petzl makes my favorite. 

If you want a static I really like my Blue water 9.5mm Haul Line. Super high sheath percentage, you don't need a grigri1 to rap comfortably on it, is super durable. I use mine for top down development and climbing photography. Would use it for hauling also but I dropped a rock on it while doing development and turned it into a 40. 

If anyone wants to know how to instantly shave a third of the weight off their brand new static, I might have some tips =p

For development on lead I use an old rope which is not infrequently green from moss. Quartzite fucks up ropes, so I don't use nice ropes out there anymore. 

Benjamin Chapman wrote:

Sorry, with all due respect, but any of the posters above that suggested an old dynamic or retired rope have not done much bolting outdoors. Check the profiles and contributions of the posters and you’ll see who knows their stuff. Get a 60m (200 ft) 10mm static rope and you’re set. Remember to pad any sharp/rough edges and that 10mm static will out last several dynamic ropes. The static makes jugging much more efficient. 

Several dozen people have derided this comment but Benjamin is correct.  The "whys" have been posted a hundred times on MP over the years. 

People who use an old dynamic rope for bolting are trading-off effort and safety in order to save a few dollars. Not worth it in the long run.

John Byrnes wrote:

Several dozen people have derided this comment but Benjamin is correct.  The "whys" have been posted a hundred times on MP over the years. 

People who use an old dynamic rope for bolting are trading-off effort and safety in order to save a few dollars. Not worth it in the long run.

There's a big difference between using an older rope that doesn't feed well anymore because it's so fuzzy and a dangerous rope. No one is suggesting climbing on a dangerous rope. 

John Byrnes wrote:

Several dozen people have derided this comment but Benjamin is correct.  The "whys" have been posted a hundred times on MP over the years. 

People who use an old dynamic rope for bolting are trading-off effort and safety in order to save a few dollars. Not worth it in the long run.

Not necessarily. It depends on the what, where and how you’re bolting. People tend to relate their experiences, local stone types, and methods they use to blanket suggest the “best way” for everyone. But it doesn’t always work like that. Far too many variables.