Ice on something all year?

I’m in Michigan and avid ice lover. I am wondering what routes and what spots does everyone climb to get on some legit ice routes spring summer and maybe fall? No not hydrophobia type ice but maybe a couloir or gully ice filled alpine route high in the alpine whether in the US or Canada. I think there’s a route in grand Teton, kautz glacier on rainier and found one on mt. Meeker by scrolling through IG. Does anyone else have specific routes they know of and climb ice all year long? 

Just switch hemispheres. It's always winter somewhere!

There is lots of ice in the Sierras that starts forming in snow couloirs in summer/early fall (depending on the snow year and weather). You can find some beta online/on MP.

Ray Lovpal wrote:

 No not hydrophobia type ice but maybe a couloir or gully ice filled alpine route high in the alpine whether in the US or Canada

I think that there are hundreds (or even thousands) of routes that meet this criteria.  In the Canadian Rockies, many of the classic huge faces include ice climbing in summer season (Kain Face or others on Robson, North Face of North Twin, etc.).  Alaska is chock full of objectives in spring and early summer, there's too many to list.  In the lower 48, the PNW has lots of routes beyond the Kautz.  Rainier itself probably has 10 different spring or early summer ice routes (Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge, Mowich Face, Sunset Ridge, etc.).  Adams, Baker, Shuksan, Glacier, and other glaciated peaks have plenty of other options.  Black Ice Couloir in the Tetons is well known, but it's certainly not the only one.  Mt. Helen in the Wind Rivers has a snow/ice gully as well, it was featured in Alpinist magazine a few years ago.  Surely there are plenty of other things off the beaten track on the cold north faces in Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming.  Realistically, anywhere there is a glacier, there is ice in summer.

Kyle covered a lot of the main ones.

There’s ice in CO that usually climbs into the summer, Pike’s Peak being one.

In the Tetons, Run Dont Walk and Black Ice are sought after but hard to nab conditions. NW Couloir on Middle is more moderate but tends to be consistently in for more of the summer.

Cabinets, Beartooths, and Sawtooths will have some north facing routes into summer but beta is hard to come by in Idaho and Montana.

Kyle Tarry wrote:

I think that there are hundreds (or even thousands) of routes that meet this criteria.  In the Canadian Rockies, many of the classic huge faces include ice climbing in summer season (Kain Face or others on Robson, North Face of North Twin, etc.).  Alaska is chock full of objectives in spring and early summer, there's too many to list.  In the lower 48, the PNW has lots of routes beyond the Kautz.  Rainier itself probably has 10 different spring or early summer ice routes (Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge, Mowich Face, Sunset Ridge, etc.).  Adams, Baker, Shuksan, Glacier, and other glaciated peaks have plenty of other options.  Black Ice Couloir in the Tetons is well known, but it's certainly not the only one.  Mt. Helen in the Wind Rivers has a snow/ice gully as well, it was featured in Alpinist magazine a few years ago.  Surely there are plenty of other things off the beaten track on the cold north faces in Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming.  Realistically, anywhere there is a glacier, there is ice in summer.

Biggest issue is partner finding and technical grade of the objective as I only climb at WI5 climber and 5.8 maybe could get away with a 5.9 on trad. Something insane like Robson or north face of north twin and the much harder routes on rainier are likely out of my wheelhouse unless I had some one else around my limit whose been on more of these alpine routes.

Seems like there’s always something you can find to get on however it’s also highly dependent on conditions as well. 

John Sigmon wrote:

Kyle covered a lot of the main ones.

There’s ice in CO that usually climbs into the summer, Pike’s Peak being one.

In the Tetons, Run Dont Walk and Black Ice are sought after but hard to nab conditions. NW Couloir on Middle is more moderate but tends to be consistently in for more of the summer.

Cabinets, Beartooths, and Sawtooths will have some north facing routes into summer but beta is hard to come by in Idaho and Montana.

Why is it so hard to get beta for climbing in ID and MT? I’ll never understand why there are so few guidebooks and info available to get out and explore these areas. Would you focus on the more available beta climbs around CO or Canada? 

Ray Lovpal wrote:

Why is it so hard to get beta for climbing in ID and MT? I’ll never understand why there are so few guidebooks and info available to get out and explore these areas. Would you focus on the more available beta climbs around CO or Canada? 

My guess is the locals don't want it to end up crowded like CO or the Tetons :)

Canada is a good bet. Bold and the Cold is a great book that gives thorough history and a good overview of some big climbs in the Rockies.

Kyle Tarry wrote:

I think that there are hundreds (or even thousands) of routes that meet this criteria.  In the Canadian Rockies, many of the classic huge faces include ice climbing in summer season (Kain Face or others on Robson, North Face of North Twin, etc.).  Alaska is chock full of objectives in spring and early summer, there's too many to list.  In the lower 48, the PNW has lots of routes beyond the Kautz.  Rainier itself probably has 10 different spring or early summer ice routes (Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge, Mowich Face, Sunset Ridge, etc.).  Adams, Baker, Shuksan, Glacier, and other glaciated peaks have plenty of other options.  Black Ice Couloir in the Tetons is well known, but it's certainly not the only one.  Mt. Helen in the Wind Rivers has a snow/ice gully as well, it was featured in Alpinist magazine a few years ago.  Surely there are plenty of other things off the beaten track on the cold north faces in Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming.  Realistically, anywhere there is a glacier, there is ice in summer.

The unfortunate and existentially dire truth is that a lot of these alpine ice routes are going to see their last ascent and vanish within our lifetimes. The Black Ice is only “in” for a week or two a year anymore, if that, and generally consists of as much exposed dirt and loose rock as ice. Not only is the season getting shorter, but the objective hazard of climbing those routes is only increasing. Climate change is happening and while a lot of the effects are on a scale that’s incomprehensible to any individual, the impact on alpine routes is an impact that climbers can  feel and see at a visceral level. 

Ray Lovpal wrote:

Biggest issue is partner finding and technical grade of the objective as I only climb at WI5 climber and 5.8 maybe could get away with a 5.9 on trad. Something insane like Robson or north face of north twin and the much harder routes on rainier are likely out of my wheelhouse unless I had some one else around my limit whose been on more of these alpine routes.

Kain Face on Robson is AI3 5th (according to MP).  What are you looking at on Rainier that is harder than WI5 5.9?  If you're safely climbing standard Kahiltna routes, most things on Rainier (and most other things I mentioned) would not be a problem.

North Face of North Twin was a bit tongue in cheek. ;)

Why is it so hard to get beta for climbing in ID and MT?

Some areas are still focused on going out and having an adventure with your buddies, thankfully!

Portillo Ice Festival...Summer skiing and tool swingin' in South America. Give 'er! 

Matt Z wrote:

The unfortunate and existentially dire truth is that a lot of these alpine ice routes are going to see their last ascent and vanish within our lifetimes. The Black Ice is only “in” for a week or two a year anymore, if that, and generally consists of as much exposed dirt and loose rock as ice. Not only is the season getting shorter, but the objective hazard of climbing those routes is only increasing. Climate change is happening and while a lot of the effects are on a scale that’s incomprehensible to any individual, the impact on alpine routes is an impact that climbers can  feel and see at a visceral level. 

Agreed. A friend and I went into the Canadian Rockies last summer intent on climbing a large but moderate classic, only to find it decimated by climate change and objectively more dangerous than we were comfortable with. We were there 50 years to the day after the first ascent.

Dallin Carey wrote:

Agreed. A friend and I went into the Canadian Rockies last summer intent on climbing a large but moderate classic, only to find it decimated by climate change and objectively more dangerous than we were comfortable with. We were there 50 years to the day after the first ascent.

What was the route, so i know not to go.

Double J wrote:

What was the route, so i know not to go.

North Ridge of Columbia. Probably better to go mid to end of June now, as opposed to July/August. 

I'm on a mission to climb ice for 12 consecutive calendar months. I can share some small beta & would love to hear if anyone has ideas to find ice in Colorado in July.

My progress so far:

• Sept 2023: North face of powell peak wi1
• Oct 2023: Notch couloir and others
• Nov-Mar: Many
• April 2024: Mt Hood many routes are/were in, I did DKH. April is tough for ice in the rockies, too much snow. Martha got done though.
• May 2024: Martha/etc. planned. For others, May-June are great for PNW volcano routes like the north ridge of baker, and CO couloirs although often you might just find neve and no ice in the couloirs.
• June 2024: Planned trip to peru. 
• July 2024: This is the only wildcard. Peru trip ends july 8 so maybe I'll climb ice in the last few days of it. Notch couloir will almost certainly be in, but I'd rather do new things. "Dark star probably not right chimney" was fat on July 16 2023 but the drytooling might be too hard for me. Unfortunately the Peru trip is using all my PTO, so going to the winds/tetons/canada would be tough. Honestly I suspect that many of the dark, shaded, North-facing couloirs above 13k' in CO will harbor ice, but I don't have specific leads where to look.
• Aug 2024: Fisher Chimneys planned 

Meeker Jul 16 2023 (did not climb) 

Powell sept 30 2023 - if you can get a stick in ice (not snow) it counts 

Total Abandon on the north side of Pikes Peak could be a good option although it is highly condition dependent. I climbed it on July 4th last year and it was quite fat. 

Might just go for the 12 months of ice gig. Ticked May on N. Face Chimney of Devil's Castle, end of June in Tetons? Winds - mid/late July (Mt. Helen - Tower 1 Gully), Portillo Ice Festival in Chile in August, September could be the crux...Alaska? Rap into a moulin? Let's GO! 

I haven't climbed Tower 1 but beta and ticks suggest September may be better! For July Middle Teton is probably good. Also Borah is probably good in September. And thanks for the Devil's Castle beta, saw the pics.

Here is where my Sticks All year attempt ended up. 

Misled by some bad beta and seduced by the promise of a "cooler" route, I changed my plan last minute from Middle Teton to Enclosure couloir. But turns out Middle Teton was in, and Enclosure was liquid. Then had to leave the range due to partner's schedule & was busy rest of the month of Aug.

But the whole challenge of this "sticks all year" thing is to figure out what's going to be in based off of ice conditions understanding and sifting out good beta from bad. So I don't blame that bad-beta ranger or the conditions, I just failed fair and square. 

Still debating whether to go for the next 12 months based on whether I can find something close and easy in Sept 2024 and where I end up in summer 2025

Jim Clarke might have ticked off 12 months already(?) September is easy if you're in the tetons! 

Ellen you still crushed it! I'm heading to Tower 1 Gully next week to hopefully finish. Overall, with the shift in timing because of warming & hotter summers I have a better understanding now of what routes and when to strike. Also have some hidden options for ya in Nevada, Utah and Wyoming. Fire back up soon! We'll have ice in the Uintas end of October. 

Nice work! Sounds like Aug was in the bag anyway. Maybe up the ante: Sticks All Year CO Only. Oct thru June is easy. Sept wild card. July and Aug is the crux; I'd  hunt north facing couloirs that get annihilated during winter. Probably a good amount of black ice on the north side of Sneffels range.