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Subscapularis tear and repair

Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi, I'm down for a subscapularis repair and possible biceps tenotomy or tenodesis. Anyone undergone this and have any comments on success and time until being able to climb 5.6, 5.9 and then harder. All thoughts welcomed. Thanks.

The reason for asking is that I have a series of alpine trips planned this summer, with mainly easier climbing, so hoping I will not have to let others down.

Eric Engberg · · Westborough, MA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I actually have had this done on both the left and right sides (about 2 years apart.  Tenodisis on the right and tenotomy on the left.  In both cases the recovery wasn't as bad as I feared.  Very little climbing for 3 months and then maybe some slabby stuff keeping the "bad" hand below the shoulder.  

I'd guess 5.6 after ~ 5 months and then a guick progression of at least a grade a month.  I was doing 10's after 9 months and pretty much as good as it gets after a  year.

Still wish I had not had the tenotomy (wasn't really given a choice).  For basic endurance strength (think pullups) its fine and as strong as before but for pure power it doesn't feel right - like something is going to cramp/tear.  Maybe its psychological.

However this summer is not that far off.  Maybe August.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
  • Thanks Eric
Jennifer M · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 65

Had supraspinatus repair + bicep tenodesis surgery on 12/4. Doc cleared me to climb easy at the 4-month mark. It’s all going to come down to the severity of your tear and the quality of your bone/tissue, plus whether you follow the doc’s orders for rehab. Work with a PT prior to surgery to prehab and get your shoulder as strong as possible as it’s been demonstrated to significantly affect recovery.

I’d guess I’ll be close to my pre-surgery climbing levels around 6 months. A lot of it is mental, though. That surgery is not something I want to do again and I’m super cautious with what I do now. I believe the tendon starts to heal to the bone at 4-5 months post-op if that helps 

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Now week 2 after surgery.  I've been lucky so far as not needed analgesics. Pain has never been worse than a broken ankle.  Maybe the physio will be worse.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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