Front Climbing Gym Autobelay Removal - Any Info Beyond the Email Sent to Members

Curious climber here -- does anyone know anything regarding the removal of auto belays beyond the information communicated in the snippet below? Is there a design flaw, recall, or something affecting more than the autobelays at the Front? Internet searches indicate some user errors at other climbing gyms and other obscure events resulting in multiple gyms deciding to remove auto belays.

I fear this is likely loose language around a more permanent decision.

CF Burnstein wrote:

Curious climber here -- does anyone know anything regarding the removal of auto belays beyond the information communicated in the snippet below? Is there a design flaw, recall, or something affecting more than the autobelays at the Front? Internet searches indicate some user errors at other climbing gyms and other obscure events resulting in multiple gyms deciding to remove auto belays.

I fear this is likely loose language around a more permanent decision.

You’re paranoid.

However, considering it seems to be impossible to stop people from forgetting to clip in all gyms should probably take the autobelays down. 

Tradiban wrote:

However, considering it seems to be impossible to stop people from forgetting to clip in all gyms should probably take the autobelays down. 

The Front actually has descent system to help prevent that - the belay is clipped into a tarp that is pulled up and covers the first 4-5' feet of the base of the route. Not fool proof but pretty good.

Allen Sanderson wrote:

The Front actually has descent system to help prevent that - the belay is clipped into a tarp that is pulled up and covers the first 4-5' feet of the base of the route. Not fool proof but pretty good.

Believe it or not those get skirted.

I can tell you from my personal experience there were one or two auto belays at the south main location that would kinda just stop taking in slack when you got about 2/3 up the route. I had it happen a few times where I would be going and towards the end I would have this big loop of webbing hanging down. Usually a couple quick tugs would get it to start retracting again, but that’s not ideal, especially when you’re climbing a harder route. I wouldn’t particularly want to take a victory whipper of unknown height on auto belay. 

I can tell you from my personal experience there were one or two auto belays at the south main location that would kinda just stop taking in slack when you got about 2/3 up the route. I had it happen a few times where I would be going and towards the end I would have this big loop of webbing hanging down. Usually a couple quick tugs would get it to start retracting again, but that’s not ideal, especially when you’re climbing a harder route. I wouldn’t particularly want to take a victory whipper of unknown height on auto belay. 

Autobelay devices are antiquated with the recent invention of bouldering 

Tristan Ellsworth wrote:

I can tell you from my personal experience there were one or two auto belays at the south main location that would kinda just stop taking in slack when you got about 2/3 up the route. I had it happen a few times where I would be going and towards the end I would have this big loop of webbing hanging down. Usually a couple quick tugs would get it to start retracting again, but that’s not ideal, especially when you’re climbing a harder route. I wouldn’t particularly want to take a victory whipper of unknown height on auto belay. 

There’s been quite a few recalls for autobelays, most infamously the MSA “Rose”, sent back and never returned.

Seriously, just boulder, it's way better.

Russ Keane wrote:

Seriously, just boulder, it's way better.

Tell me more about this "bouldering".

Tristan Ellsworth wrote:

I can tell you from my personal experience there were one or two auto belays at the south main location that would kinda just stop taking in slack when you got about 2/3 up the route. I had it happen a few times where I would be going and towards the end I would have this big loop of webbing hanging down. Usually a couple quick tugs would get it to start retracting again, but that’s not ideal, especially when you’re climbing a harder route. I wouldn’t particularly want to take a victory whipper of unknown height on auto belay. 

Thank you! This is good info.

M M wrote:

Autobelay devices are antiquated with the recent invention of bouldering 

Profound.

They need to install these: 

https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/could-your-gym-be-getting-a-lead-climbing-auto-belay-soon/

Matthew Corinth wrote:

They need to install these: 

https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/could-your-gym-be-getting-a-lead-climbing-auto-belay-soon/

https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/could-your-gym-be-getting-a-lead-climbing-auto-belay-soon/

I would love if they installed one of those lead-climbing auto belay systems; but then someone would run it out, deck, and that would be the end of it. I hope they at least get regular auto belay back. I like bouldering but there's just not the same pump and endurance factors. 

Are they fixed yet? 

Creed Archibald wrote:

Are they fixed yet? 

Nope --  I called and talked to a front desk person. The information I got with a lot of inquiry on my part is that they're waiting to hear back from TruBlue, they have no information if they're looking at other mfgrs, etc. Their risk mgmt team is handling it according to the front desk staff.

Some good news though -- they will perform a free autobelay test for both members and non members! ;) 

M M wrote:

Autobelay devices are antiquated with the recent invention of bouldering 

If your creaking hips and ankles can not tolerate even short drops onto the board-firm matting found in modern bouldering gyms then autobelay devices are very welcome. 

duncan... wrote:

If your creaking hips and ankles can not tolerate even short drops onto the board-firm matting found in modern bouldering gyms then autobelay devices are very welcome. 

Don't fall?

M M wrote:

Don't fall?

Why even try then? Such a pinecone comment.

Igor Chained wrote:

Why even try then? Such a pinecone comment.

Somehow I manage to limit bad landings when bouldering, maybe I'm just special!