Best Board Climbing Shoe

What is your go to shoe for board climbing?

What board do you use it on?

Do you use different shoes for different boards?

Any brand or rubber pair well with a particular board?

I am currently looking at Dragos, Theories, Drone CS, Method S, and Vims as potential choices, based on what I see top level Board Climbers using

Bump for Boarders

LS Theories are hands down the best board shoe I've used. They're sensitive and soft enough for beastmaker wood dome feet, but can also bite into tiny incut edges. I can't imagine a board they wouldn't excel on. 

Of my small quiver, I tend to really like my LS Skwamas. They're soft enough and sticky enough to smear well on the lower holds of a moonboard, but comfortable enough for a longer session. I tend to go for more slipper style shoes when I board climb. 

I use skwama and theory depending on the problem. Take that, Ysbrand and Caleb!

I like the skwama for pushing hard into footholds and the theory for more smeary/grabby footholds. If I was forced to pick one it'd be the theory.

Looks like I gotta find some theories in my size then. Already have LS squim squams

I prefer soft/sensitive downturned shoes for boards since I'm usually trying to grab and pull the holds with my toes.

Jeff Mac wrote:

I prefer soft/sensitive downturned shoes for boards since I'm usually trying to grab and pull the holds with my toes.

Which one is your go to?

I really like Pythons for climbing on the Tension Board. Theory look like awesome shoes too, haven’t tried them. I got a good deal on Pythons from Epic.tv and they fit my feet really well super downsized.

Sam Cieply wrote:

I really like Pythons for climbing on the Tension Board. Theory look like awesome shoes too, haven’t tried them. I got a good deal on Pythons from Epic.tv and they fit my feet really well super downsized.

Pythons are definitely tempting as a former mocc lover

John Clark wrote:

Which one is your go to?

Currently some pair of Evolvs I bought used for cheap a few years ago. I don't remember the model, but it doesn't really matter because the fit matters more than anything else.

I think the footholds are still pretty big on most boards, so IMO the only things that actually matter for performance are the fit and if they're downturned -  soft/stiffness is personal preference but most people generally prefer soft shoes for steep walls. I'm also pretty cynical and think that everything else about shoes is just marketing :)

I’d be curious if anyone has noticed a difference in the rubbers between brands. Is mad rock really super sticky? Is Black Label bd really good?

Rubber does make a difference. I climb mostly in Evolv and LS, and it seems to me like the Trax SAS on my evolv shoes is stickier and softer than even Grip2 by Vibram. I've not climbed in shoes equipped with C4 or the BD rubber, but I'd say, especially for more smeary / smedgy stuff like foot chips, it can be a huge difference. 

Ended up just ordering another pair of skwamas. Theories were just flying out of stock and too much bother to get

Big fan of the La Sportiva Mantra. No edge and one of the softest shoes in the shoe market makes it really sensitive. Just a fun shoe to train with. Heel hooks don't work as well as other performance shoes so having another shoe for heel hooking on specific problems is nice. I'm generally a fan of any soft shoe that works for your feet on the boards.

I prefer Grip2 because I want my shoe rubber to get as much contact on the holds so I can drive with my feet as much as possible.  

Primary use it on the Moonboard, Kilter and TB2. Wouldn't recommend it for the TB1 cause some of the feet you have to stand on are like the corners of the holds which can be quite sharp and could poke through the shoe in my opinion. Would rather use a more stiff shoe with thicker rubber on the TB1. Personally haven't poked a hole through the mantras but I have pushed quite hard on some of the TB1 holds with other shoes and they have left some deep impressions on the rubber.

Normal Customer wrote:

Big fan of the La Sportiva Mantra. No edge and one of the softest shoes in the shoe market makes it really sensitive. Just a fun shoe to train with. Heel hooks don't work as well as other performance shoes so having another shoe for heel hooking on specific problems is nice. I'm generally a fan of any soft shoe that works for your feet on the boards.

I prefer Grip2 because I want my shoe rubber to get as much contact on the holds so I can drive with my feet as much as possible.  

Primary use it on the Moonboard, Kilter and TB2. Wouldn't recommend it for the TB1 cause some of the feet you have to stand on are like the corners of the holds which can be quite sharp and could poke through the shoe in my opinion. Would rather use a more stiff shoe with thicker rubber on the TB1. Personally haven't poked a hole through the mantras but I have pushed quite hard on some of the TB1 holds with other shoes and they have left some deep impressions on the rubber.

It took me a while but I eventually poked a hole through the sole of my Mantras. Standing on corners like you said.

Agreed on heels.

I found I like having an edge though.

I climb on the Decoy Board for context.

I don't find sensitivity necessary on a board and most board feet are pretty good on the commercial boards (haven't climbed the TB2). Moon feet are basic smears (kicker) or usually fairly large hands. Kilter doesn't have small feet really. I use Scarpa Instinct S or Instinct VSW. My home wall has fairly small and bad feet and the VSW shine. There isn't much feel needed to really dig in and yeet.

I’m not much of a board climber but I feel like wearing shitty shoes on it (Scarpa veloces) has made it a more effective training tool. 

Tomily ma wrote:

I’m not much of a board climber but I feel like wearing shitty shoes on it (Scarpa veloces) has made it a more effective training tool. 

Not looking to train on it, but perform on it. Yes, I do know that makes me….odd

Crocs dawg

almostrad wrote:

Crocs dawg

Crocs are aid