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newer to finger training any ideas on a basic

Original Post
Michael Allen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 0

any ideas on a baseline finger training regimen should be like on top of climbing 3 or 4 times a week.

Dite Tebe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

the regiment for a v0 climber and a v14 climber are slightly different. 

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87

Please use the search function on this website, r/climbharder, and YouTube. r/climbharder even has a wiki for common questions like this. Once you have done your own research, come back and ask specific questions. 

Mike Shorts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 10

The tldr of Eva Lopez’ program is:


hang off an edge for some time but not to failure. Repeat a few times. From time to time change edge size, load, volume and hanging time (change only one at a time!). 


the slightly more detailed version is:

Find an edge you can hang for 13 seconds (not 12, not 14).

Hang three times for 10 seconds on this edge (leave 3seconds in the tank. Rest for around three minutes. Twice per week, before climbing.

Add one set in week two. Add another one (5 total ) for weeks 3&4. Take a week off.

do the same but now on an 18-20mm edge but with added weight.

Repeat.

When you stop seeing progress switch to 8 seconds with 2 seconds left in the tank.
when you stop seeing progress again switch to 5 seconds with 1-2 seconds left in the tank.

This should keep you occupied for quite some time.

It doesn’t really matter much what you do exactly. This protocol is easy to follow and easy to progress. It’s important to understand, that load is not the same as intensity as the former is a fixed value vs the latter being dependent on a variety of factors. The idea of leaving a buffer of about three seconds may seem high (your hangs might not feel very maximum) but it’s a great way to get lots of stimulus without risking injury and also leaving enough in the tank to have a productive climbing session (which should be the main focus of your training anyway).
don’t get caught up in the details, just be consistent and accept that this will be a marathon , not a sprint. 



randy baum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,251

I'd recommend just doing some hangs as a warm up to your sessions.  Then have your sessions focus on finger strength, which is often best done by climbing on a spray wall or a board like the tension 2.  If you are climbing at a gym 3-4 times a week and that gym lacks these types of boards, focus your time on finger intensive boulders such as overhanging walls with few jugs.  If you climbing outside 3-4 times a week, I go back to the initial rec: incorporate finger training into your warm up.  By a tindeq and use a Tension block.  Done and done. 

Adam Ronchetti · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 25

If you really want to hangboard I've had good luck with using a 20mm edge and gradually adding weight until I have a RPE (Rate of perceived exertion) of around 9. Meaning you held the hold. But would have fallen off in another secomd or two.

That being said, depending on how new ypu are to climbing finger strength probably isn't what's limiting you from climbing harder. 

Josh Gonzalez · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2024 · Points: 0
Michael Allen wrote:

any ideas on a baseline finger training regimen should be like on top of climbing 3 or 4 times a week.

You're new so I'm going to recommend the Emil Abrahamsson protocol. Many people suggest beginners not to use the hangboard due to injury risk but you can greatly benefit from it if you just take it easy. You can find it on the CRIMPD app but essentially it is a daily conditioning protocol. Me and most of my buddy's do this and it has worked wonders for finger health, injury prevention, rehab, and also strength! 

Sub body weight so feet on floor but most of your weight on your fingers, use a easy edge starting out around 20-25mm

10s on 50s off for 10 sets (easy 10min warmup)

CRIMPD protocol is 10s on 20s off for 6 repetitions and 5 sets, with varying grip types (Take is easy starting out if you're going to do this one everyday)

John Edwards · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2024 · Points: 0

I'm a Dave MacLeod fan and he's got a couple of good youtube videos:

30 Minute Fingerboard Workout - weighted workout but you can start without added weight, a good warmup at the gym
10 Minute Fingerboard Workout - hard warmup and intense workout for those with limited time

As others have mentioned, lots of good info on the net.  I've started using the Seconds Interval Timer app and have converted workouts to the app.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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