The Suggested Definitive Guide on Where To Live for Rock Climbing (in America)

As much as we all enjoy the weekly threads asking about where to live for climbing, I figured making an absolutely maybe definitive for-sure probably guide on where in the US the live for climbing would do a great job of adding yet another thread to the void. None of these are objectively better than the others, just different strengths and weaknesses

The Heavy Hitters

This is for the folks who just want to climb as much as possible and get out - good local access to climbing, good opportunity to have a life and facilities outside of climbing, good access to travel to other world class destinations. There can only be a few of these - you're going to be a tiny tiny fish in a humongous pond here. Not where to go if you're trying to be a mainstay of a local climbing community but if you're trying to clock out and be sharing a classic with 13 of your other friends within 30 minutes, this is the place to be.

• Las Vegas, NV - Relatively self explanatory, there's a reason Honnold thinks it's the best place in America to live for climbing
• Denver, CO - I mean the metro area so settle down Boulder bros, you're included here
• Salt Lake City, UT - Benefits of being extremely close to super high quality winter sports as well. Everyone who lives here is an outdoor psychopath though
• Honorable Mentions: None - that's the list

The Mid Majors

A bit of a blend here - kind of like the heavy hitters but probably have either less post-work style access to climbing or maybe a bit less opportunity for establishing a livelihood for yourself or more difficulties in traveling to chase weather. Your scene might be a bit more niche, or maybe cost of living is a bit lower but job opportunities are a bit less (or vice versa), but you're still in a great spot for climbing regardless.

• Bay Area, CA/Seattle, WA - Your post-work opportunities are pretty lackluster but your weekend access is hard to beat. And if you take enough climbing trips, you might even be able to save on rent!
• Reno, NV - A weird, weird place
• Chattanooga, TN - Excellent local access as well as being a good jumping-off for weekend trips elsewhere in the southeast but might be harder to find work. Almost in "The Locals" but its travel access, especially in its proximity to Atlanta, keeps it here
• Tuscon, AZ - Granite paradise. Limestone at Homestead not far away. Based off my time there this past weekend, the favorite pass-time of the citizens of this town is just parking. Everyone is just constantly pulling into or out of parking spaces all day, it's inane.
• Honorable Mentions: Boise ID, Boston MA, San Diego CA, Asheville NC, Portland OR, Fort Collins CO

The Locals

Oh boy - now you've done it. You're a local. I mean, sure, maybe you don't live in town but you're close enough that you definitely hold moral superiority over anyone from anywhere farther away than you. While you're still likely sharing your nearby spot with some tourists (likely from one of the above cities) during peak season, you're almost certainly just amongst friends and mortal enemies in the off-season. You don't even know the secret crag is a secret because it's known by everyone in town. You skip the "climber bar" and go to the bar where the actual climbers go. And it's a good thing you're so in-tune with your local area - because it's a chore to go anywhere else.

• Cincinnati, OH - Your access to RRG is excellent. Your access to NRG is pretty good. Your access to everything else blows. Who dey
• Santa Fe, NM - Because I can't, in good conscious, recommend anyone live in Burque
• Carbondale, CO - Please make Rifle as hipster as Kurt Smith thinks it is
• Bozeman, MT - Ice fest is the single worst week of the year for you
• Honorable Mentions: Moab UT, New Paltz NY, Fayetteville AR, Asheville NC, Bend OR, St George UT, Flagstaff AZ, Lander WY, Beckley WV, Durango CO, Lawton OK, Spearfish SD, there's about 50 others probably

The Townies

You are absolutely insufferable and proud of it. Unlike the locals who spend large swaths of the year sharing crags with strangers, you'd be shocked to run into anyone you haven't personally bought a drink when you're out and about. Sure, maybe your local access isn't immense, but it's hyper local, quiet, and you're fully entrenched in the scene. You're in a small pond, but it's your pond, damnit. You know it better than boulder bros know their own farts. You know all of the local watering holes, because there's probably only one. Job opportunities are not vast, but if you can make it work, this life is massively rewarding.

• Eugene, OR - A ton of climbing here in an area mostly ignored for climbing due to it's chossy and crowded neighbor to the east. A college town even! Quite a cool spot
• Truth or Consequences, NM - Oh my godddddd you guys are such townies, but you sure do have a honeypot
• Cashiers, NC - Save some money by selling your rack because you're not gonna place more than a handful of pieces of pro each year anyways
• Bangor, ME - I'm sorry I keep leaving the northeast out from this list I'm just really not that well versed on it
• Marquette, MI - Finally, the UP representation. Honestly, so friendly and welcoming that it kind of hurts to call them townies
• Honorable Mentions: Missoula MT, Conway NH, Damascus Area VA, Travelers Rest SC, Boone NC, Bailey CO, god knows how many more

I'm sure I'm missing a ton but I've already spent longer than I should have on this, so go nuts ripping it apart - if you hurt my feelings I'll just cry a little bit about it.

Have you searched the previous 1,000 threads on this subject?

But I'm sure this is different?

Beattyville KY is for the real ones

Reno is not in CA

I like how you tried to lump boulder in with Denver. A for effort. 

I can't, in good conscious, recommend anyone live in Denver.

The Bay Area should not be on the list for so many reasons that it isn't worth enumerating. Might as well put LA there. It has arguably better "closer" climbing, similar traffic nightmares and is almost as unaffordable as SF.

Tal M wrote:

As much as we all enjoy the weekly threads asking about where to live for climbing, I figured making an absolutely maybe definitive for-sure probably guide on where in the US the live for climbing would do a great job of adding yet another thread to the void. None of these are objectively better than the others, just different strengths and weaknesses

The Heavy Hitters

This is for the folks who just want to climb as much as possible and get out - good local access to climbing, good opportunity to have a life and facilities outside of climbing, good access to travel to other world class destinations. There can only be a few of these - you're going to be a tiny tiny fish in a humongous pond here. Not where to go if you're trying to be a mainstay of a local climbing community but if you're trying to clock out and be sharing a classic with 13 of your other friends within 30 minutes, this is the place to be.

• Las Vegas, NV - Relatively self explanatory, there's a reason Honnold thinks it's the best place in America to live for climbing
• Denver, CO - I mean the metro area so settle down Boulder bros, you're included here
• Salt Lake City, UT - Benefits of being extremely close to super high quality winter sports as well. Everyone who lives here is an outdoor psychopath though
• Honorable Mentions: None - that's the list

The Mid Majors

A bit of a blend here - kind of like the heavy hitters but probably have either less post-work style access to climbing or maybe a bit less opportunity for establishing a livelihood for yourself or more difficulties in traveling to chase weather. Your scene might be a bit more niche, or maybe cost of living is a bit lower but job opportunities are a bit less (or vice versa), but you're still in a great spot for climbing regardless.

• Bay Area, CA/Seattle, WA - Your post-work opportunities are pretty lackluster but your weekend access is hard to beat. And if you take enough climbing trips, you might even be able to save on rent!
• Reno, NV - A weird, weird place
• Chattanooga, TN - Excellent local access as well as being a good jumping-off for weekend trips elsewhere in the southeast but might be harder to find work. Almost in "The Locals" but its travel access, especially in its proximity to Atlanta, keeps it here
• Tuscon, AZ - Granite paradise. Limestone at Homestead not far away. Based off my time there this past weekend, the favorite pass-time of the citizens of this town is just parking. Everyone is just constantly pulling into or out of parking spaces all day, it's inane.
• Honorable Mentions: Boise ID, Boston MA, San Diego CA, Asheville NC, Portland OR, Fort Collins CO

The Locals

Oh boy - now you've done it. You're a local. I mean, sure, maybe you don't live in town but you're close enough that you definitely hold moral superiority over anyone from anywhere farther away than you. While you're still likely sharing your nearby spot with some tourists (likely from one of the above cities) during peak season, you're almost certainly just amongst friends and mortal enemies in the off-season. You don't even know the secret crag is a secret because it's known by everyone in town. You skip the "climber bar" and go to the bar where the actual climbers go. And it's a good thing you're so in-tune with your local area - because it's a chore to go anywhere else.

• Cincinnati, OH - Your access to RRG is excellent. Your access to NRG is pretty good. Your access to everything else blows. Who dey
• Santa Fe, NM - Because I can't, in good conscious, recommend anyone live in Burque
• Carbondale, CO - Please make Rifle as hipster as Kurt Smith thinks it is
• Bozeman, MT - Ice fest is the single worst week of the year for you
• Honorable Mentions: Moab UT, New Paltz NY, Fayetteville AR, Asheville NC, Bend OR, St George UT, Flagstaff AZ, Lander WY, Beckley WV, Durango CO, Lawton OK, Spearfish SD, there's about 50 others probably

The Townies

You are absolutely insufferable and proud of it. Unlike the locals who spend large swaths of the year sharing crags with strangers, you'd be shocked to run into anyone you haven't personally bought a drink when you're out and about. Sure, maybe your local access isn't immense, but it's hyper local, quiet, and you're fully entrenched in the scene. You're in a small pond, but it's your pond, damnit. You know it better than boulder bros know their own farts. You know all of the local watering holes, because there's probably only one. Job opportunities are not vast, but if you can make it work, this life is massively rewarding.

• Eugene, OR - A ton of climbing here in an area mostly ignored for climbing due to it's chossy and crowded neighbor to the east. A college town even! Quite a cool spot
• Truth or Consequences, NM - Oh my godddddd you guys are such townies, but you sure do have a honeypot
• Cashiers, NC - Save some money by selling your rack because you're not gonna place more than a handful of pieces of pro each year anyways
• Bangor, ME - I'm sorry I keep leaving the northeast out from this list I'm just really not that well versed on it
• Marquette, MI - Finally, the UP representation. Honestly, so friendly and welcoming that it kind of hurts to call them townies
• Honorable Mentions: Missoula MT, Conway NH, Damascus Area VA, Travelers Rest SC, Boone NC, Bailey CO, god knows how many more

I'm sure I'm missing a ton but I've already spent longer than I should have on this, so go nuts ripping it apart - if you hurt my feelings I'll just cry a little bit about it.

glad you didn't mention the sierra eastside (bishop/mammoth/etc.), the climbing here absolutely sucks... ;-)

old5ten wrote:

glad you didn't mention the sierra eastside (bishop/mammoth/etc.), the climbing here absolutely sucks... ;-)

And reno is a weird place with no access to anything good, so give it a pass. I mean, I live here, which should be enough of a deterrent as is. 

Such a weird list, but I appreciate the effort. 

This is either an elaborate attempt at trolling, or a post by someone who has been to enough places to have an idea, but not enough to really know.

Sam Bedell wrote:

This is either an elaborate attempt at trolling, or a post by someone who has been to enough places to have an idea, but not enough to really know.

Care to enlighten and enhance the list to some capacity?

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Care to enlighten and enhance the list to some capacity?

Some things are overrated, some are overlooked... but that's like, my opinion, man.

The problem is that saying "climbing" is like saying "ball sports". There's just too many ways to do it, and too many factors people care about, AND too many factors in the rest of our lives to determine what constitutes good access to those things we care about. 

I live in a place that many people say has great access, but I down grade it in my head cause I love granite multi-pitch and there is no granite and limited multi-pitch climbing. I'm only 30 min from an amazing crag, but now that I have kids and a regular job with a regular schedule I can't get out there after work. I can boulder after work as that is really close, but bouldering is not my favorite and by all accounts it's kinda low quality here. I tell a lot of folks about the access I have and their jaw drops, but from my perspective it's okay and I work with what I've got to be fit for trips to places I actually think are cool.

So no, not going to add to the list. Lot's of good and bad ideas out there already. People can think for themselves.

Yet another template to steer the sheep into the pens, perfect MP material. Carry on, baaaaaaaaaaah!

You should write for outside 

Tal M wrote:

• Las Vegas, NV - Relatively self explanatory, there's a reason Honnold thinks it's the best place in America to live for climbing

Yes! A beautiful city to call home! Nothing beats Vegas in May, June, July, August and Sept...

Sam Bedell wrote:

Some things are overrated, some are overlooked... but that's like, my opinion, man.

The problem is that saying "climbing" is like saying "ball sports". There's just too many ways to do it, and too many factors people care about, AND too many factors in the rest of our lives to determine what constitutes good access to those things we care about. 

I live in a place that many people say has great access, but I down grade it in my head cause I love granite multi-pitch and there is no granite and limited multi-pitch climbing. I'm only 30 min from an amazing crag, but now that I have kids and a regular job with a regular schedule I can't get out there after work. I can boulder after work as that is really close, but bouldering is not my favorite and by all accounts it's kinda low quality here. I tell a lot of folks about the access I have and their jaw drops, but from my perspective it's okay and I work with what I've got to be fit for trips to places I actually think are cool.

So no, not going to add to the list. Lot's of good and bad ideas out there already. People can think for themselves.

IDK man, this is either a lazy attempt at trolling, or a post by someone who has been to enough places to have an idea, but not enough to really know….but that’s like, my opinion, man. 

x15x15 wrote:

Yes! A beautiful city to call home! Nothing beats Vegas in May, June, July, August and Sept...

You do realize there are “summer crags” for those living in Vegas right…? Like Red Rocks and Kraft aren’t the only climbing options there lol

Go Back to Super Topo wrote:

You do realize there are “summer crags” for those living in Vegas right…? Like Red Rocks and Kraft aren’t the only climbing options there lol

Loose lips

Go Back to Super Topo wrote:

You do realize there are “summer crags” for those living in Vegas right…? Like Red Rocks and Kraft aren’t the only climbing options there lol

Yes I do. I just can't imagine living in Vegas... like that's way to far from the surf... among other aspects of life. 

x15x15 wrote:

Yes I do. I just can't imagine living in Vegas... like that's way to far from the surf... among other aspects of life. 

Maybe you missed the title of this thread. It is about where to live for rock climbing.