What type of cordelette material should you use?
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I have extra polyester cord and was wondering if that would be safe to use for anchor building. Any recommendations? |
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What is the rating of your polyester cord? I use a 240cm Dyneema sling for big blocks and trees, but mostly I do a banshee (aka in-line) belay on two bolts; or an equalized trad anchor using multiple items based on specific circumstances. Try a tensionless hitch for trees. |
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The cord is 7mm and rated for around 10Kn, from what I remember. |
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I like the 5.9mm stiff cord. Used to be able to get 5.5 cord (for hexes) and I'd use that. |
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7mm accessory cord is fine. That said, if you don't remember much about your cord, where you bought it, what brand it is, how old it is, how strong it is.....maybe you swing by your local gear shop and pick up some new cord for a few dollars. And yeah, the 5.5 tech cord or titan cord or whatever it's called is awesome because it racks so small but, it'll cost you probably $20. |
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Eric Foy wrote: The above does sound like it wasn’t purchased with climbing protection in mind. And your later “from what I remember” seems fuzzy and keeps me from getting behind it for anchor use. So I’m also thinking it could be time for a swing by your local gear store and getting some nylon / perlon cord with a known ~10 kn rating - assuming the anchor config is reasonable. And later retire it from climb use when appropriate. Then again, maybe you already understand the attention warranted for choosing, using, and caring for climbing equipment. If so, carry on. |
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Eric Foy wrote: 24kN or more would be better. Accessory cords should only be used if you’ve abstnothing else. |
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I can’t believe we’ve come this far and we still have questions like this. Is there no longer a search function on MP? |
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Li Hu wrote: What a wild thing to say. How on planet earth are you going to generate 24kn while climbing? https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Forces-at-work-in-a-real-fall |
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Li Hu wrote: Your understanding of this seems poor and you offer your answer as though it’s established fact. 7mm accessory cord is perfectly acceptable and capable as an anchor material. Materials capable of > 24kn are relatively rare. Even sewn dyneema runners are frequently in the 22kn range. What case do you see an anchor encountering > 10kn that you feel the need to make recommendation against established info? |
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It's worth noting that dyneema loses more strength than nylon when tied in a knot. Once knotted, 7mm accessory cord and the various tech cords have roughly the same strength. With 7mm nylon being stronger in some cases. I also believe that the dyneema cords lose strength due to age faster than nylon but I don't have a source on hand for this. These topics have been discussed in previous mp threads. |
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NateC wrote: I’m just a coward, and see myself needing an anchor that can hold an elephant … |
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Li Hu wrote: The black mamba sling is 49kn. Buy one and see if you think it’s reasonable for recreational climbing. |
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Li Hu wrote: And that's ok... but don't put your personal bias out there as though it's fact to another person who is looking for reliable information. |
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Demetri V wrote: he's factor 2-ing in the gym. |
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PWZ wrote: Carrying an anvil or two |
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Climbing Weasel wrote: Just weights added to my belt |