Favorite Harnesses Currently?

I love my AR395 to death but unfortunately it’s getting to the point of replacement. For some reason, Arc’teryx has gotten increasingly stingy with their pro program (despite the steady overall decline of their product’s quality along with an increase in cost) so I’m taking it as a sign to try out something new.

Does anyone have any harnesses they really like for all around stuff? Not particularly concerned about something comfortable enough to climb more than six(ish) pitches. Although comfort is always a plus. Just curious about harnesses with general quality and mindful features. 

If you like the AR395 you might also like BlueIce's Cuesta Adj (and you might also like the $50 left in your wallet).

mbk wrote:

If you like the AR395 you might also like BlueIce's Cuesta Adj (and you might also like the $50 left in your wallet).

Gear loops are extremely small

In the same boat, love my 395a for trad climbing but it's getting long in the tooth. 

I'm not sure why gear loops are such a hard thing to get right but it seems the entire industry sucks balls at designing them... Arcteryx gets A-, misty mountain gets a B+, Sitta gets a C+, BD technician get a D+, basically everything else gets an F. 

Black diamond makes a bunch of super comfortable harness models, none of them have good gear loops. 

Yates Astroman, I am on my 3rd 

Super comfortable, well worth the extra weight for all day 

My ideal harness is thusly: 

• Four gear loops on the front/sides which are large but not so large that the side gear loops end up behind you where you can't see anything (cough cough Arc'teryx)
• Square and not round gear loop
• A rear gear loop or loops
• Wide padding on the waist and thigh loops for comfy(ish) hanging belays 
• Breathable
• Packable
• Durable 
• Two belay loops (particular to my unusual LRS rig)
• Gentle on my dirtbag budget ideally 

The harness that met the most of these requirements was the BD Solution Guide. Seems like some good runners up also-- if this harness holds up better than my previous non guide solution harness then it will definitely be my ideal harness as all it's missing is the second belay loop which can be solved with aftermarket accessories. 

Such a harness is small and lightweight enough that it's a great sport harness but has enough room and comfort for all day multis and is comfortable doing many rappels in. 

Dmm renegade

Beal phantom 

The black diamond solution guide is imo as close to perfect as it gets for me. Edelrid make a few really great 5 loop harness's that are very comfortable but they are lacking if you like offwidths or chimneys. 

Personally I have found bd gear loops to be excellent, I just want to avoid non rigid gear loops more than anything. 

that guy named seb wrote:

The black diamond solution guide is imo as close to perfect as it gets for me. Edelrid make a few really great 5 loop harness's that are very comfortable but they are lacking if you like offwidths or chimneys. 

Personally I have found bd gear loops to be excellent, I just want to avoid non rigid gear loops more than anything. 

It's gotten discontinued by BD tho. Or hasn't it? Really hard to find it nowadays

Really love the new Sitta. They fixed the only issues with the original imo. Too floppy back gear loops. 

Henrique Vermelho wrote:

It's gotten discontinued by BD tho. Or hasn't it? Really hard to find it nowadays

It has, I'm really bummed and currently there isn't really any replacement on the market, I'll be switching to the regular solution and sewing in a 5th loop. 

bd couloir 

Just ordered the 2024 Sitta. Gear loops look further forward, I will update with some impressions. 

that guy named seb wrote:

It has, I'm really bummed and currently there isn't really any replacement on the market, I'll be switching to the regular solution and sewing in a 5th loop. 

Didn't realize they released a new version, I'll have to revisit it. Does it seem like it will be a little more durable than the last version? 

Been very happy with my Blue Ice Cuesta.

I like my Corax. First harness I've owned that doesn't assault my junk. Tried several BD harnesses, and each should have had to knock on doors before moving into my neighborhood. Corax gear loops disappointingly floppy, but look quite similar in design to those on the AR395, which I haven't owned. Belay loop looks more delicate than what I'm used to, but time will tell how tough it is.

While I’ve destroyed 3 of them in the last year, the Mammut Sender seems to be the poor man’s Dead Bird harness. The design is awesome, lightweight and comfy, but they did not hold up for me. The rear loops are flimsy and the plastic on the lower tie in point seems to crack. 

Otherwise, I love Metolious harnesses. Super comfortable, big gear loops, and I found if you go up a size and cinch it, the loops will be seated just in front of your hips, which I like. They’re also cheap-ish and last forever 

Chronically Injured wrote:

Just ordered the 2024 Sitta. Gear loops look further forward, I will update with some impressions. 

That was my primary gripe with the old one. Especially when you're on the larger end of a size, the gear loops sit almost at the back half of your hips. Would love to know if they've improved it! Otherwise it was a great harness. 

Logan Peterson wrote:

I like my Corax. First harness I've owned that doesn't assault my junk. Tried several BD harnesses, and each should have had to knock on doors before moving into my neighborhood. Corax gear loops disappointingly floppy, but look quite similar in design to those on the AR395, which I haven't owned. Belay loop looks more delicate than what I'm used to, but time will tell how tough it is.

I tried really hard to love the DMM renegade but I need a small and the rise is super-short and winds up being pretty uncomfortable for me.

I've had several Coraxes. The weak point is the gear loops, if you do much chimney or offwidth stuff you will probably go through the structural fabric there before anything else wears out. Haven't had any issue with the belay loops. I usually add a tied loop of accessory cord through the rear slot to make a (small) 5th loop for gear. I'm not a fan of wide rear loops (like the Adjama) that let the rear gear slide around into the stuff on the back loops.

I really liked the old Petzl Calidris, super comfy, but sadly those were discontinued a long while ago.

John Pitcairn wrote:

I tried really hard to love the DMM renegade but I need a small and the rise is super-short and winds up being pretty uncomfortable for me.

I've had several Coraxes. The weak point is the gear loops, if you do much chimney or offwidth stuff you will probably go through the structural fabric there before anything else wears out. Haven't had any issue with the belay loops. 

My corax is going on three years with no sign of damage on the gear loops. And I love to grovel and shove my way up offwidths. I will say that after a full day of cleaning choss and hanging around my legs wish for a little more padding. I’ve used it to multi pitch (no hanging belays) and thought it worked fine. I don’t remember how much it cost but I remember it being very reasonable compared to a lot of other basic harnesses.