Best Red River Gorge crags?

Going to the red spring break for the first time! Im climbing in the 10’s and am overwhelmed by the sheer amount of climbs on mountain project. Any suggestions for walls to hit??

Ryan Kennedy wrote:

Going to the red spring break for the first time! Im climbing in the 10’s and am overwhelmed by the sheer amount of climbs on mountain project. Any suggestions for walls to hit??

Johnny's Wall and Plate Tectonics,  Great Wall and Bruise at Muir. Gallery, Shire, Crossroads, Chocolate Factory at PMRP. That oughta to get you started.  

DrRockso RRG wrote:

Johnny's Wall and Plate Tectonics,  Great Wall and Bruise at Muir. Gallery, Shire, Crossroads, Chocolate Factory at PMRP. That oughta to get you started.  

Thank you

What Dr said.... you can spend all week at Muir valley and still not hit all the crags.  Ditto PMRP.

or scroll through MP looking for the specific style of climbing you want bump around.  steep face, crack, trad, sport its all there.

anything specific you were looking for?

You really can't go wrong, there's awesome climbing all over the gorge. Muir does tend to get the most crowded on weekends so I'd climb elsewhere on a Saturday.

On a busy day bruise brothers is a shit show. I lived there for a month and never went once. 

Must do climbs and crags though:

You have to do bolterguist at sunset.

Sunnyside is a pretty quiet crag with some classics.

Animal crackers wall for amazing slab climbs. Kind of crowded on weekends though

Johnny's wall has some fun chill stuff. 

Overall you won't be too far from a 5.10 no matter where you go. Too much quality climbing to do in a lifetime. Johnny b good is a good chill 5.11a get on some stuff and have fun

Austin Johnson wrote:

On a busy day bruise brothers is a shit show. I lived there for a month and never went once. 

If you never went there how would you know?   Early in the day on even the busiest Saturday, the 5.10's are rarely taken as people warm up on the easier stuff at the cliff first, likewise at the end of the day towards dusk the place is usually cleared out as people have had their fill or moved onto other crags. Of course any popular crag at the red can be a shit show on busy weekends, best to save those for the weekdays if you can afford that luxury. 

I was at Bruise today, there were was one other party of 2 all day. I've never seen more of a shit show than Drive-By Crag, one day I counted over a 100 people and 30 dogs before making a swift exit myself.

Regional

Bruise Brothers

Roadside (Graining Fork reservation required)

The Gallery

Camelot

Johnny’s Wall

Chocolate Factory

…to name a few

The Gallery includes classics such as:

27 Years of Climbing 5.8

A Brief History of Climb 5.10b

Guernica 5.11a

Preacher's Daughter 5.11a

All classics. And many more excellent climbs in the 5.10-5.11 range.

DrRockso RRG wrote:

If you never went there how would you know?   Early in the day on even the busiest Saturday, the 5.10's are rarely taken as people warm up on the easier stuff at the cliff first, likewise at the end of the day towards dusk the place is usually cleared out as people have had their fill or moved onto other crags. Of course any popular crag at the red can be a shit show on busy weekends, best to save those for the weekdays if you can afford that luxury. 

I was at Bruise today, there were was one other party of 2 all day. I've never seen more of a shit show than Drive-By Crag, one day I counted over a 100 people and 30 dogs before making a swift exit myself.

I 100% agree with this, I’ve never had to wait to get onto Manimal or Critters, but I’ve been to drive by and seen lines of 5 rope bags on whip stocking and breakfast burrito. Great Wall is also worse than the tall wall at BB also. 

DrRockso RRG wrote:

one day I counted over a 100 people and 30 dogs before making a swift exit myself.

I must say I'm impressed if you actually counted that high a midst such anxiety dripping chaos. I would've probably left as soon as I saw the parking lot.