Wind protected Red Rock Climbs

Any recommendations on route that are protected from southwest wind? I heard good things about Willow Spring, Mescalito East face, and Brownstone wall. Any other ideas? 

The Slab gets basically no wind from any direction 

Adam W wrote:

The Slab gets basically no wind from any direction 

Thanks. Looking for more trad climbing routes. Any other ideas? 

Elena Wah wrote:

Thanks. Looking for more trad climbing routes. Any other ideas? 

If you are looking at multipitch trad you may be sol

Routes on the Angel Food wall are well protected from southwest winds, plus they have a walk-off so you don't have to worry about rappelling.  I climbed Purblind Pillar on a wind advisory day back in 2019 and it was very sheltered.  We could hear the wind howling over us and saw Vegas completely engulfed in dust, but we didn't feel any wind the whole time on the route.  Communication was an issue on some pitches but we managed without any problems and didn't have radios.  However, be aware that most of the routes here don't have fixed anchors so you can't bail if the conditions get hairy.  The wind can be weird and unpredictable here.

Crags tucked in on the mountain on the east side of the Calico Hills are also sheltered from SW winds.

I’ve had good luck in the past picking routes that were on leeward aspects of the forecasted prevailing winds in the canyons.  I once climbed Birdland (the only party on the route that day) in totally calm conditions on a day with gusts forecasted to be in the 60s. (out of the north) I’d try to look at as many forecasts and weather stations as possible the morning of to confirm that prevailing winds are doing what you think and then go take a look based on your best guess.  

Without actually looking at the forecast/based solely on your post, it seems like features like the Dark Shadows, Lotta Balls Wall, and similar (NE-ish terrain that concludes lower down on the features) could be your best bet, but you could get hosed with them if winds are more westerly than southwesterly as it’ll funnel down the canyon.  If it were me, I’d probably walk into Pine Creek with an open mind, gear for 4-5 different options and see what you find. 

Community Pillar and Honeycomb chimney are mostly inside the mountain.   

Max Tepfer wrote:

Without actually looking at the forecast/based solely on your post, it seems like features like the Dark Shadows, Lotta Balls Wall, and similar (NE-ish terrain that concludes lower down on the features) could be your best bet, but you could get hosed with them if winds are more westerly than southwesterly as it’ll funnel down the canyon. 

Had this happen to me back in 2022.  Got on Black Magic because the winds were forecasted to come in from the SW and I thought the peaks to the south would shelter us.  We ended up getting slammed by wind off and on the entire day which sucked.  The rappels were not windy at that spot tucked back in the cliff, so at least that was a positive.

Max Tepfer wrote:

I’ve had good luck in the past picking routes that were on leeward aspects of the forecasted prevailing winds in the canyons.  I once climbed Birdland (the only party on the route that day) in totally calm conditions on a day with gusts forecasted to be in the 60s. (out of the north) I’d try to look at as many forecasts and weather stations as possible the morning of to confirm that prevailing winds are doing what you think and then go take a look based on your best guess.  

Without actually looking at the forecast/based solely on your post, it seems like features like the Dark Shadows, Lotta Balls Wall, and similar (NE-ish terrain that concludes lower down on the features) could be your best bet, but you could get hosed with them if winds are more westerly than southwesterly as it’ll funnel down the canyon.  If it were me, I’d probably walk into Pine Creek with an open mind, gear for 4-5 different options and see what you find. 

Do you think Mescalito East face will be more protected than Dark Shadows wall if winds are more westerly? 

Maybe? That was kind of the thought behind walking into a canyon like that with lots of aspects and elevation bands to choose from,  seeing what’s happening, and having the ability to pivot easily based on what you find.