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Appropriate set up for fixed line?

Original Post
Caraline Feairheller · · Kent, OH · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

Hello, want to take photos at local crag where the two permanent anchors are glue-in bolts about a foot from the edge.

Am I approaching this set up correctly or am I overthinking it? Thanks for any help in advanced!

Edit: thank you for all the input/advice/considerations! 

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

Textbook bomber setup, but it may or may not be appropriate for that particular anchor. If that bolts are too far back or too far apart you may not have enough material to use a quad with that sling. If so you could use a different material like cord or a longer sling to make the quad or you could use the same sling in a different configuration. 

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

That is a pretty reasonable setup.  If I was gonna use a quad or any slings I'd also clip the end of the rope directly to a bolt.  It might save your life some day...

My normal setup is an overhand with the rope to one bolt and an alpine butterfly below that and semi-equalized to the other bolt.  You don't really need a power point for fixed lines and if the bolts are modern even equalization isn't really needed.  Sometimes simple is best.

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
Mikey Schaefer wrote:

That is a pretty reasonable setup.  If I was gonna use a quad or any slings I'd also clip the end of the rope directly to a bolt.  It might save your life some day...

My normal setup is an overhand with the rope to one bolt and an alpine butterfly below that and semi-equalized to the other bolt.  You don't really need a power point for fixed lines and if the bolts are modern even equalization isn't really needed.  Sometimes simple is best.

What’s the story with the cut sling?!? 

Christian Hesch · · Morro Bay · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55
Climbing Weasel wrote:

What’s the story with the cut sling?!? 

If the tail of the rope is backed up onto one of those biners, the cut sling doesn’t unalive you 

great point Mikey, thanks for the photo example 

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
Climbing Weasel wrote:

What’s the story with the cut sling?!? 

That’s a fantastic tip, thank you! I guess my question was more- how on earth did that sling get cut, and what kind of anchor setup are you using in which a single failure causes the whole thing to lose all integrity?

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

Id save myself the sling and use two cloves in series, or a bunny ear fig eight, to the two bolts

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

2 biners, 2 knots, done. No slings necessary unless there is some sharp edge below the anchor or some similar hazard to mitigate. Simple is best. Simplest for the eye to troubleshoot, as well.

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5,796

i think something that is getting lost here is that, regardless of single point or equalized load, an anchor sling/rope running over any sort of appreciable edge should be protected.  

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

I use old garden hose. Make a 1.5" cut on one side, along the length of the hose end. Pinch the cut section it's tight on the rope, and 4-5 wraps of climbing tape will hold it in place. 

Caraline Feairheller · · Kent, OH · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0
Rasputin NLN wrote:

Id save myself the sling and use two cloves in series, or a bunny ear fig eight, to the two bolts

In this type of set up, would I make the bunny loops large enough so that the knot itself is over the edge or would it be better to keep them smaller and place carpet to protect against the edge? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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