Appropriate set up for fixed line?
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Hello, want to take photos at local crag where the two permanent anchors are glue-in bolts about a foot from the edge.
Am I approaching this set up correctly or am I overthinking it? Thanks for any help in advanced! Edit: thank you for all the input/advice/considerations! |
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Textbook bomber setup, but it may or may not be appropriate for that particular anchor. If that bolts are too far back or too far apart you may not have enough material to use a quad with that sling. If so you could use a different material like cord or a longer sling to make the quad or you could use the same sling in a different configuration. |
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That is a pretty reasonable setup. If I was gonna use a quad or any slings I'd also clip the end of the rope directly to a bolt. It might save your life some day... My normal setup is an overhand with the rope to one bolt and an alpine butterfly below that and semi-equalized to the other bolt. You don't really need a power point for fixed lines and if the bolts are modern even equalization isn't really needed. Sometimes simple is best. |
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Mikey Schaefer wrote: What’s the story with the cut sling?!? |
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Climbing Weasel wrote: If the tail of the rope is backed up onto one of those biners, the cut sling doesn’t unalive you great point Mikey, thanks for the photo example |
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Climbing Weasel wrote: That’s a fantastic tip, thank you! I guess my question was more- how on earth did that sling get cut, and what kind of anchor setup are you using in which a single failure causes the whole thing to lose all integrity? |
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Id save myself the sling and use two cloves in series, or a bunny ear fig eight, to the two bolts |
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2 biners, 2 knots, done. No slings necessary unless there is some sharp edge below the anchor or some similar hazard to mitigate. Simple is best. Simplest for the eye to troubleshoot, as well. |
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i think something that is getting lost here is that, regardless of single point or equalized load, an anchor sling/rope running over any sort of appreciable edge should be protected. |
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I use old garden hose. Make a 1.5" cut on one side, along the length of the hose end. Pinch the cut section it's tight on the rope, and 4-5 wraps of climbing tape will hold it in place. |
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Rasputin NLN wrote: In this type of set up, would I make the bunny loops large enough so that the knot itself is over the edge or would it be better to keep them smaller and place carpet to protect against the edge? |