Best Edging Technical steep shoe?

What’s everyone’s technical edging shoe for steep climbs?

I normally use La Sportiva Katana Lace, but since the change, I’m not 100% sold on the new design.

What’s everyone’s project shoe for steep technical edges?

old style Scarpa Boostic

Alex S wrote:

old style Scarpa Boostic

Which is making a comeback! In any case, good answer.

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Point of clarification: how steep are you looking at for "steep technical edging" ? A lot of people hear "technical edging" and think of Smith Rock style very tech. But that's not really "steep". Angle impacts shoe choice. Also, what rock type? What's your use case for this shoe?

For the true vert tech, OG Boostic, Katana Lace, Miura Velcro, Vapor Lace, and Instinct Lace are prime contenders.

For something a bit steeper, Solutions, Testarossa, Mago, and Instinct VS become good choices for small edges on a steep face.

This is just naming the obvious Sportiva and Scarpa options. There may be some dark horse contenders also from other brands like Tenaya, UP, Acopa, etc. Again, it also depends on the angle, rock type, and use case.

JCM wrote:

Which is making a comeback! In any case, good answer.

---

Point of clarification: how steep are you looking at for "steep technical edging" ? A lot of people hear "technical edging" and think of Smith Rock style very tech. But that's not really "steep". Angle impacts shoe choice. Also, what rock type? What's your use case for this shoe?

For the true vert tech, OG Boostic, Katana Lace, Miura Velcro, Vapor Lace, and Instinct Lace are prime contenders.

For something a bit steeper, Solutions, Testarossa, Mago, and Instinct VS become good choices for small edges on a steep face.

This is just naming the obvious Sportiva and Scarpa options. There may be some dark horse contenders also from other brands like Tenaya, UP, Acopa, etc. Again, it also depends on the angle, rock type, and use case.

I’m considering the Instinct lace as I LOVE the Vs for bouldering and I have my TC pros for trad 

I’ve never heard of the Boostic, do they still sell them?

JCM wrote:

Which is making a comeback! 

Nice! I hope they can recreate the OG.  

Will Sarty wrote:

I’m considering the Instinct lace as I LOVE the Vs for bouldering and I have my TC pros for trad 

I’ve never heard of the Boostic, do they still sell them?

The original Boostic was regarded as one of the best tech edging shoes ever. Very stiff and precise velcro shoe.  Awesome for sustained vertical granite with micro-edges. A bit too stiff and insensitive for most other applications like overhanging limestone.

A couple years ago the Boostic got revamped and watered-down. They made it softer and more sensitive, which makes it kind of a generic sport climbing shoe and less of a specialist. Which is unfortunate since it held an important role in its specialist niche. 

In a recent (German) Scarpa catalog there's indication they are bringing back the stiffer "Boostic OG". Timing and details - and whether it's even being released in the US - are TBD.

JCM wrote:

The original Boostic was regarded as one of the best tech edging shoes ever. Very stiff and precise velcro shoe.  Awesome for sustained vertical granite with micro-edges. A bit too stiff and insensitive for most other applications like overhanging limestone.

A couple years ago the Boostic got revamped and watered-down. They made it softer and more sensitive, which makes it kind of a generic sport climbing shoe and less of a specialist. Which is unfortunate since it help an important role in its specialist niche. 

In a recent (German) Scarpa catalog there's indication they are bringing back the stiffer "Boostic OG". Timing and details - and whether it's even being released in the US - are TBD.

Sounds like the exact shoe I want! But doesn’t help my current situation 

Will Sarty wrote:

What’s everyone’s technical edging shoe for steep climbs?

I normally use La Sportiva Katana Lace, but since the change, I’m not 100% sold on the new design.

What’s everyone’s project shoe for steep technical edges?

Mens La sportiva solutions almost to stiff  for first few months but they do get softer whilst still maintaining very high performance. Ended up getting these after a lot of experiments.Great all rounders though not great for long slab routes obviously..Hard to break in.I size them the same as all my shoes@37(street shoe 39 though approach shoes are 38.5). So no crazy down sizing.My feet are Roman in shape and fit the toe box well.

Actually leaning towards the  Boostic now after the recommendation. Seems like a good fit over the new Katana Lace possibly 

there is a store 4 hours away that have the OG Boostic I may just order to check out.

Size comparisons to the Instinct VS? I’m a 41 in those but a 40 in the Katana Lace

Will Sarty wrote:
there is a store 4 hours away that have the OG Boostic I may just order to check out.

…would you be able to share the name of this store? 

Matt Carroll wrote:

…would you be able to share the name of this store? 

Trail shop. Only have size 40 

Thanks, too bad about sizing! Nearly a unicorn in the wild 

Matt Carroll wrote:

Thanks, too bad about sizing! Nearly a unicorn in the wild 

Right! Based on the reviews here I would have driven  if they had my size lol

Will Sarty wrote:

Actually leaning towards the  Boostic now after the recommendation. Seems like a good fit over the new Katana Lace possibly 

there is a store 4 hours away that have the OG Boostic I may just order to check out.

Size comparisons to the Instinct VS? I’m a 41 in those but a 40 in the Katana Lace

Original boostic sizing was fickle for me. I think I had to go up in size significantly from Sportivas... was a while ago, and Sportiva sizing has also changed. Just don't expect good fit based on other shoes.

I formerly wore Katana lace (old model) and now  absolutely love the fit and performance of the instinct lace (and VS). I use them mostly on granite and at Smith. The instinct lace and VS are super comfy, precise, supportive and feel really nice to climb in. On another note, I know folks that love the new boostic for smith vertical edging. I know they are a bit softer than the OG but some folks actually like the newer shoe. Everyone’s foot shape and toe strength, etc is a bit different. I always like to know what works for different people. 

Scarpa Instinct Lace is my go to for steep edging here in Red Rock.

I think you'd enjoy reading this thread on the new BD aspect Pro. Overall seems to point towards a pretty reasonable edging shoe. I personally use the oldschool 5.10 Anasazi, but I'm planning on grabbing a pair of aspects after 1-2 more resoles on the pinks. I prefer a flat last rather than a downturn - but that's likely because I'm not a fan on off vert or overhung stuff. I'm all technical edging or slab + cracks. 

If you find a pair of old school 5.10s and haven't tried them before - give them a try! I'm sure you'd enjoy them (both the Anasazi and Blanco are legit). Obviously UnParallel is known as the replacement, so it's possible that UP lace has filled that void, but I can't say for sure until I try it. If you want to stick with LaSpo fit and sizing, I'd say the Miura is your best bet as an alterantive to the Katana

This thread has pretty much covered all the main ones but I thought I would throw out a few of those darkhorse options, although I do not have much personal experience with any of them. They all fit into that steep edging niche rather than the boostic tech vert niche.

The NewTro from Unparallel fits into that overhanging edging space. One of their only shoes to use their hardest RA rubber and it comes in a velcro and lace version. Having worn most other UP shoes I would not count on it being crazy stiff.

The Spectre from Acopa is also a steep technical shoe. Crazy asymmetric and probably quite stiff. A good option for the wide-footed folk out there.

Also the Geshido from Evolv is pretty great. Very stiff and has a nice hook on the toe, confidence inspiring on edges, and still has the softer Trax SAS.

Love all the recommendations 

decided on the new boostic. Ordered two sizes to see which one is the keeper 

Otaki and Kataki for tech, miura vs or skwama for my harder rps.

formerly miura and synchro 

The Scarpa Generator is wildly underrated for edging and face climbing.