Fancy specialized ice tools

FWIW, I asked a member of the US Ice climbing team for his thoughts the Morphos.  He likes them for both comp climbing and outdoor climbing.  He has been climbing on the Morphos for two years without breaking one, which is impressive, considering he has broken 4 Anchars.  

He let me swing them, and I was impressed with how easy they are to swing, even with comp picks installed.  

I've had the pleasure (and slight dent in my wallet) of using Morphos, and here's the lowdown: they're feather-light, swing better than any tool in its league should, and the handle is phenomenal. Plus, the array of picks available means you can pretty much tackle any climb you set your sights on. The flip side? Well, your bank account might not thank you. Both the tools and picks come with a price tag that’ll make you think twice.

When it comes to durability, Morphos stand their ground, especially for something that's full carbon. However, they don't quite match up to the resilience of an xDream. But let's talk about the real world for a second. I've seen climbers take down M15 at Vail with xDreams in hand. Stas Baskin and Tyler Kempney, who are in leagues I can only dream of, swear by xDreams.

So, are these tools the pinnacle of climbing gear coolness, boasting both style and a hefty price tag? Without a doubt. Will they transform your climbing abilities overnight? Unfortunately, Sadly, no. If you're bored, have cash to burn, and are looking to fill a missing void in your life with climbing gear Morpho's might be your ticket.

On a personal note, this is my candid take. To the Polish designer with the stunning long blonde hair behind Morphos – if you're reading this, you're incredible. The first time we met, you were cruising mixed routes in Vail, no helmet, with your hair billowing in the wind, and your equally blonde girlfriend on belay. It was like a scene straight out of a climber's dream, quintessentially European, and I thought to myself, "this has to be the coolest person I've ever laid eyes on." Also, apologies for bailing on Deepthroat. Fingers crossed, we get to share a rope again in the future.

I have been climbing a fair bit with one nomic and one x dream.   I like the nomic pure ice pick. its seems to last longer than the Xdream mixed pick.  I really don't 100% know which tool is better?  I like the hammer on the Nomic.  the x dream might be a tiny bit lighter? the nomic might have a better swing?  maybe thats just the extra weight? I do tend to over drive and get the nomic stuck more often... I would be tempted to just use the x dreams but the nomic picks are in better shape...  neither tool has any advantage that will improve my climbing by a grade.. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote: neither tool has any advantage that will improve my climbing by a grade.. 

That’s because you’re talking about the wrong tool. At least, that’s how I convinced myself when I emptied my bank account.

I’m also obliged to tell you to get Nor’easters (my friends at Forecast are stalking me). 

I’m not going to list the reasons why any tool mentioned is better than another. While any modern ice tools should serve you well, I just think some are more fun than others and worth branching out for if you’re not hurting financially. But I will say, Nomics now bore me, and X Dreams have the least comfortable handle ever designed.

Too bad none of these companies seem to want to offer sponsorships to climbers who are only distinct by being completely average in every way ;) 

I'd love to try them out sometime though, mostly out of curiosity. 

Christian Donkey wrote:

I’m also obliged to tell you to get Nor’easters (my friends at Forecast are stalking me). 

I’m not going to list the reasons why any tool mentioned is better than another. While any modern ice tools should serve you well, I just think some are more fun than others and worth branching out for if you’re not hurting financially. But I will say, Nomics now bore me, and X Dreams have the least comfortable handle ever designed.

I like what Forecast is doing, they are not afraid to offer the products that are so niche to be dispensable. The youth kid on the USA Ice Team is using their extended custom X Dream Grips. They make purpose built bolt ons for cycling shoes. These are not easy asks, meanwhile Petzl can’t make plastic face shields.

The aluminum CNC tools are at first glance like some others, but I anticipate if they are specializing like they are already doing, they will have their own market. 

 If they can master their carbon fiber printing process they will be a force to be reckoned with.

I abhor X Dream/Aspeed handles, to a lesser extent the stock Mophos, but I have never wrapped a handle for my own hands. This I think is something I didn’t give enough importance to.

I will say that stock Morpho Picks are wildly better than any other pick of any other maker for DT. The point is so hooked it makes Intellects and 2 balls(double yangops?) jugs. You know what I am saying. i thought that swinging the Morphos required handling the upper section of the extended grip, which, whatever man I will not use Fuels anymore they are boat anchors. 

Ira OMC wrote:

Too bad none of these companies seem to want to offer sponsorships to climbers who are only distinct by being completely average in every way ;) 

I'd love to try them out sometime though, mostly out of curiosity. 

You can demo the Forecast Equipment tools in North Conway at Savage Mtn Gear (and possibly at the Harvard Cabin if you're up there, last I heard). Get in contact with them to get info! https://www.savagemtngear.com/

I'm likely to end up with a pair in my collection, especially if the whole completely average climber sponsorship thing pans out. They're working on some new models too...