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Best introduction routes for the Superstition Mountains

Original Post
grantstilp Stilp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 0

Heading to Arizona with a buddy this weekend and planning to squeeze some climbing in. Any recommendations for a first time visit to the Supes? From reading comments it seems like they’re chossy and all routes have some element of adventure climbing/route finding/run outs. All things I’m comfortable with, my buddy however is relatively inexperienced with these types of things but a strong boulderer and sport climber. I’ve done lots of big adventure free climbing like the Steck-Salathe and NEB on Higher Cathedral rock if that helps put my experience and ability in perspective.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

A couple of easy fun routes: The Crying Dinosaur and The Hand. Pinnacles, both, the latter being just like the name implies and you climb the narrow ridge to the summit. Descent from both requires two ropes, if memory serves, but it has been decades.
if you are in Phoenix, go climb The Praying Monk. It’s easy, well protected and in a great location. 

grantstilp Stilp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 0

Thanks Daniel, 

Do you know of anything harder or more obscure? Something less likely to be crowded on a weekend? 

grantstilp Stilp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 0

Do you know if the welded tuff in the Supes is good to climb on after a rain? Or do you have to wait like with sandstone? 

Matt Heinen · · Arizona · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 111

A good buddy of mine put up this awesome route a couple years ago, it has good rock and pro for supes standards. Great adventure, as most supes routes end up being. This one should see more ascents than it currently does. Field of Dreams is also 100% worth the hike imo 

grantstilp Stilp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone for the recommendations and advice. I’m thinking we’ll climb the crying dinosaur the first day to get a feel for the approach and area, and then go for Field of Dreams the next day. Does the approach for the Flatiron just follow the Siphon draw up and past the crying dinosaur? 

Tim Heid · · AZ · Joined May 2009 · Points: 2,520

To get to FOD you just keeping going up the main hiking trail for a long ways in the draw (almost to the top). There is a pretty obvious loose slope you can break off (sometimes hikers will go this way on accident). Alternatively, even if you miss that break off, you can take the hiking trail all the way to the top and easily traverse along the base of the Flatiron proper to get to the start of FOD (this honestly might be easier than the loose gulley, but it's been awhile). FWIW, I wouldn't leave anything at the base of FOD since it's easier to top out and walk down the normal hiking trail than going back.

+1 for Bark's Canyon being awesome and some of the best rock in the Supes. 

take TAKE · · Mass · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 191

So what's the deal with bolts on the lonely mountain? They aren't banned?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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