February sport climbing near palm springs CA

Hello all

My adult son and I are planning a short climbing trip late February. Palm Springs will be out home base. So far we've looked at Malibu, San Bernadino areas and I am even considering a stretch out to RR, NV.

We've only climbed in the midwest at the Gorge (KY -single pitch, between 5.7-5.9 mostly) so unsure if these areas are manageable especially in February.  Any advice would really be appreciated!  Thank you! 

Jisu

Joshua Tree would be the nearest, big climbing area, but it is known for trad climbs. There is a book on sport climbing in Joshua Tree, but if you had some cams, you could toprope quite a few more climbs,

https://kdanielspublishing.com/cart/index.php/guide-books/joshua-tree-sport-climbs-and-top-rope-sites.html

Here is a good guidebook for most areas in Joshua Tree (mostly trad):

https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/joshua-tree-rock-climbs/

Joshua Tree is by far the closest/best destination to Palm Springs and is worth a visit. Even if you don't climb there, still take a day to see it's unique landscape. Generally good climbing weather in February, though the wind can be chilly at times. The main issue there is a limited selection of beginner friendly, well protected sport climbs in your grade range. 

Does it fit in your budget to hire a guide? That would be a great option and allow the full JTree climbing experience, plus the opportunity to learn new skills.

If you'd rather go on your own and sport climb, New Jack City is a reasonable option. It's a bit further drive, and its not a world class destination like JTree, but it has a good density of moderate sport climbs and is good in the winter.

If you want sport climbing you got it.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105865045/new-jack-city

Not to far of a drive- especially compared to RR.

This place is fun, if you wish to spend the nite, Barstow has lots of Motels and restaurants.

Welcome to California 

Joshua tree was our initial target but I read that they don't allow climbing starting late February to protect raptor nesting sites...is that true?

If they're open, we definitely might consider just packing light and boulder there instead

New jack City is 1hr 45 min and typically good in Feb. many routes in that difficulty range. Approaches are very short for many routes so once you are done driving, you’ll be climbing.

But you shouldn’t miss the Joshua Tree experience. It is very beautiful there. 

Jisu Kim wrote:

Joshua tree was our initial target but I read that they don't allow climbing starting late February to protect raptor nesting sites...is that true?

If they're open, we definitely might consider just packing light and boulder there instead

There are very few areas closed for raptors. You could probably get which specific areas from the NPS website. The whole park is never closed to climbing (somebody will post an exception, like COVID).

Thanks all, this is super helpful! We'll definitely check out Joshua Tree

New Jack City looks awesome as well! Lots of choices...

Jisu Kim wrote:

Thanks all, this is super helpful! We'll definitely check out Joshua Tree

If you use the route finder and search just for sport routes in your range you will see pages of options at Joshua Tree.  But unless you have Todd's sport climbing guidebook, expect to spend hours getting lost trying to find them.  Indian Cove has a pretty good number of easy sport routes and is lower elevation and thus warmer than the rest of the Park.

Also to add: 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106775078/dry-falls 

This is Palm Springs climbing…+ look for some boulders along the approach.

Also in the region are the areas around Apple Valley--BMX park, etc. Sort of a 'poor man's' Joshua Tree, but more bolted sport climbs in moderate grades, easy access, and closer to Palm Springs than New Jack. It doesn't seem to get a lot of love, but I actually found the rock to be of somewhat better quality than it is in much of JT, and really enjoyed the climbs that I did there.

At many of these crags, a warning: Bolted granite slab climbing, while technically "sport", may feel quite heads-up compared to the Red River Gorge climbing you are accustomed to. Proceed with caution, even at grades that one paper look quite easy.

This does not apply to New Jack City, which is more featured "normal" sport climbing.

Is this the recommended guidebook mentioned above? 

https://madrock.com/products/joshua-tree-sport-climbs-and-top-rope-sites-guidebook

Jisu Kim wrote:

Is this the recommended guidebook mentioned above? 

https://madrock.com/products/joshua-tree-sport-climbs-and-top-rope-sites-guidebook

yes.  Author Todd Gordon

Other sport crag options in addition to the Apple Valley crags (worth visiting, short approach), are Spy Mountain and Fairview. Fairview is not too far from Apple Valley crags and has a guidebook.

Get Todd's Josh Sport Climbing Guide and you will find plenty to do.

Don't worry about crag closures at Josh, as they affect a tiny number of the thousands of routes.

Just got the book!

It doesn't say how tall the climbs are but assuming 70-80m rope should be fine, right? 

Also we read that most climbers carry-on their gear and rope, but we were wondering if TSA would give us any trouble...

It would be nice to know how this all worked out for you. 

The trip was a lot of fun, but certainly very hard. I've only been climbing for a little over a year, so the tough grading as well as slabby style made it tough. In fact, if it wasn't for my son being a much better climber than me, I probably would not have been able to do many of the routes. Despite all this, some highlights:

1. Weather in February is awesome! given the elevation, it was a nice 60's in Joshua Tree, mid-70's in Palm Springs where we stayed...really perfect

2. The routes were pretty far apart, so needed to hike a lot, which was really quite tranquil and nice

3. The guidebook definitely turned out to be a must and super helpful

4. There's a great gear shop just outside of Joshua Tree (Nomad Ventures) who gave great input on the slabby climbs and also has a crashpad "ATM". We ended up renting a couple of large crashpads on our second day and mixed in some cool bouldering with the rope climbs, which was a definite bonus

5. It was close enough to L.A. so we took a couple of day trips for some good Korean food and also visited Madrock HQ! Super nice folks there, my son ended up grabbing a pair of shoes which he really likes. Of note, they have a small climbing area in the HQ and also a huge bin of demo shoes for $35 a pair, if you can find your size. We also checked out a couple of hikes in the city and, on one of the days, we climbed at Hollywood Boulders gym (Magnus Mitbo went there) rather than going to a nearby crag, since the weather forcast wasn't super great. Hollywood Boulders, of note, was super fun. I accidentally left my shoes there and by the time I realized it, we were already many hours away back in Palm springs. They actually graciously mailed it out to me after I returned home (LA to Midwest!!!), at no cost to me (they refused my multiple attempts at paying them back), so definitely a 5 star customer service for sure!

All in all, this was our first climbing trip where we flew to our destination. Our concern about flying w/ our gear turned out to be no problem at all and overall was a very doable adventure, so something we're looking forward to doing again soon. It's definitely different than Red River Gorge, since RRG is way better maintained and has a much higher density of climbs in a small area, so you don't have to hike as much. However, just being there, enjoying the weather and the company, hiking in an incredible park, and the super nice folks we were able to meet up with were all worth lugging the gear around (and struggling up the routes!).

Thanks to everyone for helping us make this a successful trip!