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Scotland/Ben Nevis March 1-2 | Advice and Guide recommendation?

Original Post
Kadri Kee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0

I have a short window of availability March 1-2 and I'm thinking of doing winter ascent of Ben Nevis. I'm curious to understand is beginning of March still a good time? How crowded does it get over the weekends? What type of equipment and gear is recommended, anything specific for the wind? I have done ice-climbing and dry-tooling before and have my axes and crampons. 

I would appreciate any advice and guide recommendations to be able to climb with somebody who knows the area. 

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55

Kadri, my Scottish winter climbing career ended some time ago however you don't seem to be overwhelmed with responses so I'll bump this hoping someone better qualified contributes. You've just the one ice route in your tick-list, you might clarify what level of ice and dry-tooling you have had experience in or what kind of climbing you envisage (Ice? Classic 'mixed', like Tower Ridge?). 

I can say one thing confidently: it will be hard to predict the conditions on the 1/2 March until shortly before the 1/2nd March! You've a decent chance of good conditions, the famous gullies are often in best shape from early February til mid April, but this varies enormously year-to-year. It would be unlikely that you couldn't do something unless it's really blowing a hoolie or, conversely, there had been a big thaw. If the conditions are great the classic routes will be busy. A local guide is invaluable for all this. Andy Nelson or Graeme Ettle come recommended but I'm sure there are plenty of others.

You'll be walking uphill briskly for a couple of hours, then alternately climbing vigorously and standing still belaying for some time, so your clothing should be adaptable to all these circumstances. Temperatures often fluctuate around 32F (can feel much colder because of the wind and humidity) so clothing that keeps you warm even it it's damp is recommended. Gloves get wet and I seemed to need several pairs. Guides will have a kit list I'm sure. 

I recommend you ask the same question on the ukclimbing.com forum.

vwall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 5

You might try reaching out to these folks.

https://www.atlasmountaineering.com/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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