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Raed Zaed: ohm alternative?
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I just saw an ad for this thing that appears to be an ohm like device but with adjustable friction..? I hadn't heard of it. It appears to be new and I couldn't really find any info outside of their own website so I was wondering if anybody here knows anything or has tried it. Link to product page: https://raed-climbing.com/products/zaed-stainless-steel I lost my ohm and haven't felt like buying another but this one is unfortunately just as expensive so idk if I want to bother, but it's cool to see another option |
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I have my eye on it, but also heard an "Ohm 2" is coming at some point. The zaed has some curious text in the manual about using a locker on the first bolt, and pre-clipping second bolt. It's hard to tell if it's just the same danger as the Ohm if you fall earlier, or is actually meaningfully different. The plus of the zaed as I understand is it feeds smoother and doesn't lock up, which is both nice but also worrying for an earlier fall which makes it a harder "either/or" decision as to which you prefer. Keen to follow this thread for any first hand feedback that might make me open my wallet. |
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I know nothing about the device in the OP. Another alternative is the Bauer Zorro (and Espressi). These are fairly popular in Germany, Switzerland and Austria, much less than Edelrid though. It's a small one-man operation I think. They feed much better than the Ohm, and the Zorro has essentially no delay. The website is in German though. |
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Pino. Have you used them? I put the website through google translate, but I'm still unclear on the difference. The Zorro clips directly to the bolt, and the Espressi has a dogbone to extend it. The Zorro needs to be attached with a locker. But, the Espressi - ok for non-locker? There's some blurb about "sensor dynamic hand" belay technology, but I have no idea what it means. Really, I'm asking, if I were to give it a whirl, which one to go with? If you have an opinion I'd love to hear it. |
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I saw this device mentioned in HowNotTo’s email this morning, where they say: “ Raed Climbing's Zaed is on the shelf! It's not an Ohm... it's better“ See the details at https://hownot2.store/products/zaed |
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So it's sole purpose it to clip a low bolt (or piece I suppose) on a route to keep your belayer from feeling the full force? Has anyone tried it yet? |
Dave Baker wrote: I've bought the Zorro recently. Works perfectly fine. The Espressi is new. I emailed the guy about the differences. The Espressi is ok for a non-locker. As far as I understand it, the difference is that the Espressi orients itself easier in the direction of the belayer due to the sling, and you can clip stick it. It is easier to take the rope out of the device while hanging on the rope after being lowered to the first bolt. I assume this comes at the cost of a delayed reaction (due to the length of the sling), though he says on the homepage that he changed some of the angles to accomodate it better. He said the Espressi is geared more towards outdoor climbing. The Zorro needs a belay karabiner to fix to the first bolt. It reacts basically instantly and works very well. It's well built and will probably last forever. I haven't had the device lock up when pulling rope and clipping like I've seen with people who use an Ohm (though I've never used one myself). I tend to pull and clip fast, and so far it has worked well. It does work better with slightly thinner ropes, a Beal 9.0 was better compared to an old fuzzy Edelrid 9.8. It doesn't lock, just adds friction, so the catches are fairly soft. The cost of the instant reaction/no delay is that you have to fix it to the first bolt with a karabiner directly, and that you can't easily get the rope out when lowering because the karabiner closes it. The intended usage is that you clip it to your belay loop and your partner lowers you to the ground. This way the friction which alleviates the weight difference is still there until you're on the ground. This is probably an advantage if you are climbing with kids or lighter partners - in my case, my gf is pregnant, so it's just a precaution, there isn't much weight difference. I can see it being a bit tricky with orienting the device in the direction of the belayer if the first bolt is way off to the side, although the carabiner orients itself pretty well I think. The Espressi had just appeared on the website and I didn't know about it back then. Looking back, I might have bought it simply for the ease of taking the rope out and clip sticking, the Zorro works fine though. If you have more questions, just ask. The guy is also quick to answer emails, no idea how good his English is though. The blurb you mention is just that, just some notion that dynamic belaying is possible with the device. If you buy the Zorro, don't buy the carabiner he provides, it is twist lock which is very annoying, screwgate is definitely preferable. Here is a video of the intended usage of the Zorro. |
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Oh and the Ohm II is supposed to be released in February. |
Pino Pepino wrote: I've been curious what the updated ohm is like and found a picture:  From their website: "The innovative and successful Ohm is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. The second generation of the assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences now has a swivel joint that improves its freedom of movement. As a result, the Ohm can now be clipped to the first bolt in any direction. The locking system prevents the device from opening accidentally and makes it easier to insert the rope and remove the Ohm when lowering." |
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Neat stuff, I've always found the ohm a bit too grabby so I get to choose between hard catches or yeeting my belayer to the shadow realm. The adjustable system sounds good to me. |
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Source for the Ohm 2 photo is here: https://edelrid.com/gb-en/vertical-freedom/edelrid-news/blog/press-new-products-sport The (original) Ohm is definitely more grabby than I'd like, but it's better than kicking my belayer in the head. At least, he thinks so. Edit to add: Edelrid main page is updated as well -- edelrid.com/gb-en/sport/bel… |
Ryan Smith wrote: now has a swivel joint that improves its freedom of movement. As a result, the Ohm can now be clipped to the first bolt in any direction. You mean I can't make fun of my partner for clipping it backwards anymore? That's half the fun! |
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Hownot2 has stocked it. I guess we will be seeing some videos about it soon. |
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Just got a Zaed. I really like it as its not as grabby as the Ohm. I started with setting two but then switched to setting one. It was perfect for me:185 and belayer:130. |
dino74 wrote: Which one did you get? Titanium or steel? |
b k wrote: I got the steel because it's heavier and more likely to keep the device down. I'm mostly using it in the gym. |
dino74 wrote: Would you be able to post fall videos with Zaed? - I am curious how much difference there is between the two levels. |
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In reading the Zaed docs, they make a really big deal about attaching to first clip, and pre-clipping second. Is that all hot air, or does it fundamentally differ from (e.g.) the Ohm in this regard. Also curious that the Zaed comes with a locking carabiner and the Ohm does not. Fundamentally different design, or does it differ to actually need/benefit from it? |
Dave Baker wrote: I don't know the answer for certain, but further in the docs it says:
If the failure mode is "acts like quickdraw" I'm way more comfortable with it than "device might break". Anyone a HowNot2 Patron/member who wants to request some device testing and review? I bought one from HowNot2 and hope to try it out- I don't like getting spiked with an Ohm. |
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Wouldn't the OHM perform the exact same way? |
Brad Johnson wrote: If you fall on the first draw with the ohm, there is a notch that should add extra friction to the rope.  |
