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Easy crack recommendations in Joshua Tree
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New, nervous leader looking for recommendations for easy crack routes (5.7 and below) in the park. Some of my favorite leads in the park were Gargoyle 5.6 and Nectar 5.4. Looking for more similar routes! I know there aren’t a lot of pure crack climbs in Joshua Tree, but I’m much more comfortable on cracks than face/slab climbing, so need some suggestions! |
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This 5.6 I felt was significantly easier than nectar but it is also a crack/flake on a slab so pretty different from nectar. Be cognizant of the seasonal raptor closure but other than that sick hike and nobody out there. |
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"The bong" is an enjoyable crack at a mellow grade: (be warned, the "walk-off" has a few low 5th moves) https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105721771/the-bong |
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Double dogleg (5.7) and Beck's Bet (5.7+). Rock Garden Valley. The climbs are thirty feet apart. The cracks are very secure with featured faces. Route 66 on Gilligan's Island is 5.4 and is a low angle off-width that is easy to climb and to protect. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105721963/diagnostics https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105793844/stemski Diagnostics feels a little closer to 5.8 getting off the ground, but the rest of the route is easy, well protected, and really nice. |
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Mental Physics is my favorite 5.7 crack at J Tree. In the Wonderland, a great place to wander!  |
Teton Tom wrote: Is it possible to only do the first pitch (is there a bolt anchor or something that would allow us to descend without going all the way up the second pitch)? Because the first pitch seems great, but the PG13 second pitch seems like way above our comfort level right now! |
Debora S wrote: Of course, there's a bolted anchor for the first pitch. I believe you need a 70m to rap it. |
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Oh, also Mike's Books! |
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many easy cracks around JTree. some more not mentioned yet:
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