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Climbing in Spain feb/March recommendations
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Hello all, haven't done many climbing trips outside of the u.s. I'm Curious to hear everyone's thoughts on the best places to go in Spain for a completely unplanned climbing trip in feb. ? Looking for trad up to 5.9/5.10 but also don't mind sport. And enjoy multi-pitch. Most likely would be solo , so a place that's easy to meet climbers would be good! |
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What's your cold tolerance level? What's your rock preference as there is an area in Spain which favours very cold climbing due to the rock shoes working at their best in granite. |
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Spain has mostly sport. Many Europeans don't know how to do trad (major exceptions are the Brits and Irish and Scandinavians, along with some others) Early Feb is likely to be cold; late Feb might be warm in the southern areas but not in the north or northeast Calpe has trad. El Chorro has sport and tons of climbers in Feb and prob will be the warmest area in Spain then. Has a bunch of multipitch. Consider Chulilla too |
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Following up on what Richard posted. The Calpe/Costa Blanca area is huge ( just look at the size of the guidebook!!!). It has a good chance of reasonable climbing weather in Feb. ( such weather, though, isn't guaranteed anywhere in the country in Feb.) and does have a reasonable number of trad options in your suggested grade range. The problem, under the criteria you mentioned, is that due to the extent of the area, there is no 'climber's hub' where you can have a good chance of meeting potential partners. From what I have seen most climbers arrive in groups, find lodging somewhere in the area, then travel to different crags for the day. I recall that a few years ago there was a climber-focused lodging called the Orange House in the area, that could be a potential option, if it is still up and running. Chulilla, which I believe is in the Valencia region, was mentioned as an option, as it, too, is likely to have decent weather at that time of year. The climbing is clustered around the ( very pretty) small town and has a well-positioned climber's hut to serve as a meeting point. However, I believe that it is all sport and, more importantly, doesn't ( at least it didn't when I was there a decade + ago) have many routes in the 9-10 grade range---it seemed that one had to climb at the mid-11 level at least, to get full-value from the area. So, as Richard suggested, probably your best option is El Chorro. While it is an extensive area, the main climbing sectors ( excluding the out-lying crags covered in the guidebook) are all easily reached from the lodging options located in or close to the village. It is also easily accessible and a car isn't necessary, as the village is serviced by the train from Malaga ( 1 hour) which has an international airport. It also attracts 'unattached' climbers, with a couple of climber 'bunkhouse' type accommodations, so is a good place to meet partners. The one negative, given your criteria, is that the climbing is overwhelmingly 'sport', but balancing that are the very large number of routes ( both single and multi-pitch) 10 and below. It is also the part of Spain that is most likely to have good weather in February. |
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This is all great, I appreciate all of your opinions and info! Thanks again |
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the olive branch in el chorro is the “miguel’s” of the area, albeit 1/10th the size. you might be able to pickup a partner there unannounced. |
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Montserrat , just outside of Barcelona, is trad heaven. I went in early March and the weather was great, lots of options. Tons of spires with conglomerate climbing, some real big routes too, insane setting. Not very easy to find partners though, unless you plan in advance. I’ve got the English guidebook if you want it |
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Tons of trad multipitch in cavallers (granite) but it'll be way too cold in Feb -- it'll be ski season in the Pyrenees. But a great place to check out later in the year. I found it easy to pick up partners there. |
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Heaps of trad in Spain. I have no idea what some of you are talking about. -Gredos -Picos de Europa -Pyrenees. You can spend your entire life here climbing trad if you like and go nowhere else -La Pedriza. An oversized Joshua Tree. Heaps of trad. It favours very cold weather. Any climb higher than 5.12d (highest grade on slab is currently 8.14d/8c+) requires temperatures around the 2-3 deg. C. as an optimal medium https://youtu.be/EjI21A8ud5A?si=h2IfqL1Vb2prQNBH
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Margalef and Siurana are really great sport areas. Tons of stuff to chose from. February and March should be quite warm enough, in fact I am pretty sure that's the area's season. I was there in December and temps weren't too bad. |
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Riglos dude, not trad but loads of 1,000' bolted 9's, 10's and 11's. Weather was fantastic in your time frame, same as ours was. |
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Plenty of trad in Riglos.  Xere-Xandra (7a+/A1). Mallo Cuchillo |
