Fingernails... How long for climbing?

OK, asking for a friend... can someone climb with painted acrylic fingernails attached to their real nails? Is anyone actually doing this? (I'm pretty sure you would be limited to the easier jug climbs in the gym... or maybe friction climbs where all you need is a palm.) What are the longest and most beautiful nails you have ever seen on a [relatively serious] climber? Feel free to post pics.  I'll go first:

On a related and perhaps more serious note, I heard that a pro tip would be to not cut your nails all the way back as a very slight bit of overhanging fingernail can support the skin on your fingertips in tiny holds. True? Maybe like this... (Not that I use hold so tiny this would make a difference.)

I can't say that I've ever tried, but I do know someone who has. She told me that the acrylics ended up breaking off and it wasn't the most comfortable experience. In terms of nail length, I end up climbing enough that my nails get filed down on the wall. I can confirm that super short cut finger nails offer less support than slightly longer ones, but you can really only feel the difference on 15mil crimps or smaller. I've heard that the Japan national climbing team really got into the whole nail support thing a developed a special nail polish for increase rigidity.

Hank Hudley wrote:

developed a special nail polish for increase rigidity.

Fellas, is painting your nails aid?

On a more serious note, I feel like I trim my nails too short, and have been doing so since before I started climbing. I've had an issue lately with my hypnonychium (the skin that grows under the tips of your nails to create a seal between your nail bed and the outside world) overgrowing. When I trim my nails, I am left with protruding skin, particularly on my middle and ring fingers where I am crimping the hardest. It is sometimes a bit painful, but mostly just unsightly. I wonder if this wouldn't happen if I didn't trim them as short.

Like Hank, my nails also get filed down from climbing, so I end up with no white on the center of my nail, but a lot at each corner, which is again unsightly. 

Thanks, Hank, Camdon, and Chiyo… nice data points. I probably cut mine too short, I’m thinking, but luckily I’m not crimping hard enough to have any protruding skin issues… and am also not climbing enough these days to grind them down. Alas.

It may have been an Adam Ondra interview where I picked up the idea of leaving the nails just slightly longer rather than trimmed completely back.

I’m disappointed, though, that no one with painted nails has weighed in yet (except Chiyo). Are rock climbing and a Met gala incompatible activities? Inquiring minds want to know (my wife, being the main one). ; )

Camdon Kay wrote:

Fellas, is painting your nails aid?

According to USAC rules, It seems like it is, but I'm not sure about IFSC.

Seems like a blurry line.

On a more serious note, I feel like I trim my nails too short, and have been doing so since before I started climbing. I've had an issue lately with my hypnonychium (the skin that grows under the tips of your nails to create a seal between your nail bed and the outside world) overgrowing. When I trim my nails, I am left with protruding skin, particularly on my middle and ring fingers where I am crimping the hardest. It is sometimes a bit painful, but mostly just unsightly. I wonder if this wouldn't happen if I didn't trim them as short.

Up to you, but I would recommend some trial and error to try and figure out what works best.

Hank Hudley wrote:

I can't say that I've ever tried, but I do know someone who has. She told me that the acrylics ended up breaking off and it wasn't the most comfortable experience. In terms of nail length, I end up climbing enough that my nails get filed down on the wall. I can confirm that super short cut finger nails offer less support than slightly longer ones, but you can really only feel the difference on 15mil crimps or smaller. I've heard that the Japan national climbing team really got into the whole nail support thing a developed a special nail polish for increase rigidity.

This fits with what I saw once on a Japanese TV show. The show was describing how damaged or too-short fingernails would reduce the performance of a baseball pitcher's throw. They could have faster, more accurate throws if the nails were not clipped very short and had been carefully clipped so as not to have any tiny cracks or chips. Nail polish would seem like an obvious thing to add support to the nail, and hence to the tissue at one's fingertip.

Here’s an image of what I believe is overgrown hypnonychium. Anyone have similar issues? 

"...can someone climb with painted acrylic fingernails attached to their real nails?"

I dunno, but I really prefer a nice looking set of nails like that on a woman, as compared to a pair of grungy, beat up hands that look like mine. Jus' sayin'.

vvvv

Oh, brother. Here comes the WokePolice...

apogee wrote:

"...can someone climb with painted acrylic fingernails attached to their real nails?"

I dunno, but I really prefer a nice looking set of nails like that on a woman, as compared to a pair of grungy, beat up hands that look like mine. Jus' sayin'.

“Hey fellas, anyone else impose unequal beauty standards on their partners versus themselves? Anyone?”

apogee wrote:

"...can someone climb with painted acrylic fingernails attached to their real nails?"

I dunno, but I really prefer a nice looking set of nails like that on a woman, as compared to a pair of grungy, beat up hands that look like mine. Jus' sayin'.

vvvv

Oh, brother. Here comes the WokePolice...

I'm curious....any idea why, for you?? Not something people think about, usually. Historically, the state of one's hands, female or male, had to do with signalling wealth. Soft, pretty hands and nails aren't working. And like everything else, it's gone to extremes at different times and different cultures.

But, guys, why is this a preference for you now, if it is? Just drawn to general "prettiness"?

As to painting nails to reinforce them, look no further than acoustic guitar players, if they choose to use natural nails on their dominant hand. The other hand is likely trimmed short, to work the fret board.

Re false nails, I admit I suck at pretty much all things "girly", but I'm pretty certain some types can be put on and off, even reused. Probably stuff out there that could be put on only for that big date night with apogee?? I'm thinking theater makeup type stuff now.

Best, Helen

From personal experience, a "good for climbing" nail length might vary a lot from person to person. If I leave no white part to the nail, my tips extend way beyond the end of the nail. A friend's nails are built differently, where they reach much farther when they cut them to the "same" length.

Just silly personal preference, like we all have, OLH. Though I stand by that view, I prolly shouldn't have created the thread drift here from the OP's very reasonable question. Sorry about that, Daniel Joder.

No worries. I have enjoyed the back and forth. This whole thing was prompted by my wife who is a relatively new gym climber—and she tried out some of those acrylic nail extensions for the first time. She was [rightfully!?] worried about ripping one off on a hold and is currently at the salon getting them cut back in preparation for her first gym session in a while. (And I also remembered that Adam Ondra comment on the subject.)

Interesting talk, though, on the topic of the ideal nail length for small crimps.

I assume not a few climbing guitar players have had to learn use a pick???

FWIW Ondra advocates leaving enough nail for your fingertip meat/skin to push up under it when crimping hard.  He says it makes a more solid foundation when you're trying to stay on 1/2 pad crimps or smaller and I gotta say I agree.  I play guitar so my right hand is usually like that, but my left, my fret hand, stays shorter.  Regardless, my left hand is still stronger when pinching AND crimping, though it is not my dominant hand.  

I hear if you eat enough collagen your fingernails will grow so long and strong that you can use them to jam super thin cracks 

apogee wrote:

Just silly personal preference, like we all have, OLH. Though I stand by that view, I prolly shouldn't have created the thread drift here from the OP's very reasonable question. Sorry about that, Daniel Joder.

Not silly, exactly......these things are cultural, and can be deep seated. And, we rarely even think about them at all, even as we make decisions and assessments based on things we don't even think about, lol!

For myself?

I like the beat up, aged, hands better. They have stories to tell, and as an artist, are far more visually interesting than conventionally pretty is. Pretty in general is boring, in figure drawing. Bodies doing things are much more appealing. 

Yeah, thread drift, but not really. Why care about nails at all?

Because we do care, sometimes, including climbing.

I've had friends who reinforce their nails, one way or another. A friend puts superglue on his fingertips, when they're wearing out on climbing trips. Plays hell with touch screens, though, lol!

Here is a 500 year old example of fingernails, and much much more, in a really amazing tradition, from Thailand. But similar in many places in SE Asia:

https://youtu.be/YOZVmLS9N0o

H.

Guuuurl, acrylic nails are ugly. Get rid of those things and climb hard. Pedicures are great tho! Nice having a foot rub down after a weekend of squeezing my feet into constrictive shoes.

OLH, that was pretty impressive… beyond jamming super thin cracks and well into the A5 sky hook realm. Thanks for sharing that. 

Daniel Joder wrote:

OLH, that was pretty impressive… beyond jamming super thin cracks and well into the A5 sky hook realm. Thanks for sharing that. 

Just imagine, if the metal ones were glued on....you could hook a big bro in OWs!! Backhanded!