You have strength no rest, strength. If you want results I would slot a second rest day in there to do quality strength sessions.
gtluke
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Jan 9, 2024
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 1
The training plan is weekly, do everything in the plan of the week, in one week. I find this to not be much stuff to do, so I typically do two plans at once. Like pullups and fingerboarding plan. Together it's a pretty intense week.
Hey, I've done the crimpd plan from a coach and here's my thoughts. Without seeing what the climbing days look like we can't really effectively tell how the workout looks so take this with a grain of salt. 8 weeks was too much, probably because I'm older but I saw negative returns in weeks 6-8 from overtraining when I should have just been preforming. I doubled up my muscle strength or finger strength with climbing workouts to get more full rest days where I just did flexibility, I was very happy I did. For example, if you did finger strength and climbing day 1, you would just have core and flex on day two letting your tendons completely rest for at least 24 hours. I did finger strength before the climbing training and did muscles after climbing and liked that set up for me. Led to longer workouts (sometimes like 3 hours) but worth it for full recovery days, plan on snacking mid way through long workouts it really helps. Step down your expectations for grades you're doing on climbing days. I was doing 16 boulder pyramids, still thinking I would max at V5/V6 and I ended up bringing that down to V3/V4 after a session. De-load weeks were super important, needed them more than I realized.
Seems like you need more muscle strength training in there, especially a day of opposition training (chest, triceps, posterior chain) or you're going to work yourself into a hunch back and get hurt. One of my least favorite things of the program I was on was they had me doing the same lifting exercises every time. I quickly threw that out the window and incorporated different lifts that work the same muscles. My experience from weightlifting is that doing the same exercise over and over only makes you better at that exercise, not stronger. This is great for "improving" your metrics on a sheet of paper but not for strength and injury prevention. Get ready to move things around as you figure out what works for you and your body. EAT and SLEEP!!!! These are just as important as time for recovery.