Ergonomics

When are they worth it? 

The steeper it gets, the happier you'll be to have them. Sustained WI4 and up. Dry and mixed at a grade higher than that. They're actually kind of awkward on lower-angle climbs.

Better to hook than swing, imo 

Ergo-nomic are worth it for me on WI4 and above, because hanging onto the handle doesn't bother my tweaky finger as much as the nomic handles do.

Are you getting tired swinging your tools? Then nomics are the right answer. 

Are you getting pumped hanging from your tools before your swing falls apart? then Ergonomics are the right answer. 

Or just get Xdreams, and change the handle angle back and forth. I didn't like the small handles and shaft flex on them myself. 

If you like the handle.  The Ergonomic has a wide, flat, rectangular handle, with relatively sharp corners.  That handle shape definitely isn’t for everyone.  

I am going to disagree with most of the people above.  With the right technique, they are as easy or easier to swing than Nomics.  Ergonomics climb low angle ice just as well as Nomics.  Caning is actually easier with the Ergonomics (invert the tool, don’t grab the head).  Swinging into low angle ice is the same, if you rotate the tools around your index finger.  Ergonomics are a bit easier to swing over bulges and cauliflower ice, when you rotate the tools around your pinky.  The more open pick angle and thinner profile of the Pur’Ice picks makes swinging into ice easier, but anyone with good technique and sharp points should have no problems getting sticks with Dry picks.  

I sold my Ergonomics for the sole reason that the sharp corners on the handles caused pain and cut off circulation to my fingertips.  The Nomic handle is narrower and rounder, which doesn’t cause the same problems for me.

As far as angle of recline goes, I would say neither the Nomic or Ergonomic handle is great.  The Tech Machine and X-Dream (Ice mode) have intermediate angles of recline that are much nicer for the vast majority of climbing, in my opinion.

The only reason I use Nomics instead of Ergonomics is because Nomics are cheaper. Even for less steep ice Ergonomics don’t offer any disadvantage over Nomics, imo, and the angle of the handle makes them excellent for very steep ice. 

Hmm I always just thought the Nomics were the go too for pure ice and the Ergonomics were the best for hard mixed and dry tooling. 

Mitchell McAuslan wrote:

Hmm I always just thought the Nomics were the go too for pure ice and the Ergonomics were the best for hard mixed and dry tooling. 

That is how Petzl markets them.  If you put the same pick on them, the only differences are the recessed handle (angle of recline, width, and cut outs) and the spike.  The heads, shafts, and pommels are the same.  

I can confidently say that the majority of climbers doing hard mixed and drytooling in Colorado prefer the intermediate angle of recline on the X-Dream (ice mode) / Reactor / Tech Machine handle to either the Nomic or Ergonomic.  For me, the only circumstance that the increased angle of recline on the Ergonomic handle is preferable is when using the tools in a reverse grip (index finger on the pommel).  Since the vast majority of climbing is done with a normal grip (pinky finger on the pommel), you don't see many climbers preferring the increased angle of recline of the Ergonomic or the X-Dream in dry mode).

I’ve been climbing on a set of ergonomics for about 5 years now and I can’t say enough good things about them. I climbed on them once and never touched my nomics again.

They are a little overkill on easy terrain but they don’t feel unreasonable, if I am doing an easy day on iceI’ll use a different set of tools. They are pretty stellar on steep ice, as they retain the same shaft and head geometry of the nomic, the more aggressive handle makes clearing bulges and top outs significantly easier than more moderate tools. I’ve climbed hundreds of pitches of mixed on them from scrappy alpine climbing to hard drytooling and I definitely think they shine above my old nomics. Kitted out with drytooling picks they climb hard mixed as good as any mass produced tool, the more recessed lower grip and larger distance between upper and lower grips contribute to exceptional performance on hard shit. I’ve climbed dozens of trad/alpine routes with them as well and they perform great in that environment as well, but for moderate mixed climbing they don’t really have much of an advantage over the nomic.

 The handle can definitely be polarizing, the handle design borrows some concepts from competition tools that can make them less comfortable for some people. When hanging off the tool in really steep terrain the flat front and the squared off edges give your fingers something hang on to, with rounded handle designs you are relying a lot more on friction to hang on. And while it’s not nearly as sharp and crazy as an actual comp tool handle, it does sacrifice some comfort in the name of efficiency. For me I’d rather be less pumped with slightly sore hands, I find it easier to just HTFU than be pumped. All this being said I don’t really notice a difference with the handles until I’m climbing something that I’m properly on my arms (ie. ice and more moderate mixed routes under M8)

All in all I really enjoy my ergonomics. That being said if your only goal is to climb ice and not a whole lot of hard mixed than nomics might serve you better. On the flip side if your goal is to only climb hard drytooling routes you would be better served by a more specialized tool. But for climbing a little bit of everything I love ‘em. They really do feel at home on everything from WI3 to hard double digit shit. 

Thanks for the in depth response Kevin. I have nomics, and love them. I'm interested in the Ergonomics for steep ice and mixed. Ultimately more curious than actively looking to replace my nomics as I'm not only climbing steep ice these days but still! Seems stellar.