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Which belay device do you hate? Why?

Original Post
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,252

I already know a contingent of people find the gri gri to be noxious. And I’ll allow that it takes a bit of practice and some tips to get the hang of it. It’s hard to decide if it’s a cult to hate it or to love it, really.

For me, it was the mega jul. I really wanted to love that sexy piece of stainless steel German engineering, but belaying felt a little halting and rapping was a complete stop-start bag of crap. That 30-meter journey convinced me to throw in the towel. Fortunately, it retained good resale! However, I fully blame my own lack of intellect and perseverance for the failure in that belaytionship, I’m sure it’s awesome in the right hands.

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

the eddy. borrowed one from a friend when they first came out, used it once and i'll never touch it again. aside from the fact that you load the rope opposite of a grigri (which drove me nuts), it was way to big and bulky. 10/10 fail.

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,252
Darren Mabe wrote:

No memes in the text thread, please ;).

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Colonel Mustard wrote:

No memes in the text thread, please ;).

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24
Colonel Mustard wrote:

No memes in the text thread, please ;).

This thread IS a meme.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

The original mammut smart thing. Horrible to rack, not great to use

Ezra Henderson · · New York City · Joined May 2022 · Points: 3

It takes up my entire pack when I bring it to the crag, it won't work with long pitches, and paying out slack is a pain. It's hard to rack because it weighs 35 pounds, which means that it is not incredible for multipitches, and to top it all off, is very expensive. 

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,252
Ezra Henderson wrote:

It takes up my entire pack when I bring it to the crag, it won't work with long pitches, and paying out slack is a pain. It's hard to rack because it weighs 35 pounds, which means that it is not incredible for multipitches, and to top it all off, is very expensive. 

Holy crap, that would be a lead belay for the ages! Hands free, yes?

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719

Not a fan of the Mammut Smart, Revo, Juls or Sticht plate with the spring. I can use pretty much anything else.

Mostly use ATC-Guide, GriGri & CT Alpine Up

Shane F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

The Trango Cinch and Vergo get my votes. They are very fiddly to use smoothly. They both have a true design flaw, if the belayer turns their left hip toward the wall, the device does absolutely nothing. The Cinch was discontinued because the rope can just pop out of the device under normal conditions.

They are the only devices I will not let some one belay me with.

Elaine Gilstrom · · SF Bay Area, CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 75

I haven't used very many devices, but of the ones I have, the worst has been the revo. It has far too little friction, so catching and lowering is more difficult than it should be.

Also on the note of the cinch, a few months ago, I had a friend deck from the top of a climb because his belayer's belay device failed on him and if I remember correctly, their partner was using a cinch. Luckily they walked away with only minor injuries though (this happened in a gym)

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

I am seeing a lot of red flags in this thread. 

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,834
Shane F wrote:

The Trango Cinch and Vergo get my votes. They are very fiddly to use smoothly. They both have a true design flaw, if the belayer turns their left hip toward the wall, the device does absolutely nothing. The Cinch was discontinued because the rope can just pop out of the device under normal conditions.

They are the only devices I will not let some one belay me with.

If you arrived at that conclusion because of my comment/video in another thread, more conditions are necessary to cause the device to not lock up: you have to also be holding it level such that the left side of the device is pointing in the general direction of the first bolt, and you have to have zero belay grip. 

The device does catch if the exit path of the rope is downward (even without a grip in my tests). 

Don't point the exit path toward the first bolt and it's a great device. All devices have edge case failure modes of some sort, and this one is easy to avoid if you know it exists.

T Hocking · · Redding CA. · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 210

Dating myself here;

The Standing Shoulder Belay,

 and the Dulfer Sitz for rappelling. 

 The reasons are obvious to anyone that's used them.   

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812
Elaine Gilstrom wrote:

I haven't used very many devices, but of the ones I have, the worst has been the revo. It has far too little friction, so catching and lowering is more difficult than it should be.

My first thought reading your comment was that this is exactly why I like the Revo for lead belay in the gym:  it keeps my belay habits correct for when using an ATC outside.

Still, I agree it could use a little more built-in friction. Biner choice can matter some but it is not obvious what’s going to add friction. Plus, adding friction to the weight of the thing can be hard on the shoulder if quickly paying out slack. Sigh.

Anyway, my answer to the OP’s question is that my “hate” depends on the combination of device, circumstances, and my proficiency with the device.  I guess that’s really a non-answer. :)

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 661

Devices I've used: ATC, Grigri, Lifeguard, Birdie, Revo, Giga Jul, Pilot, Vergo

I dislike lead belaying with the Grigri. Other than that, I have no major issues with any of those devices. All have their pros and cons.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

ATC guide…. The only device that caused me to be dropped to the deck!!!
First time… one of my friends, who gets any new gadget. Climbing in a limestone cave… “Guy this thing is great, we can belay off of this boulder- that has a bolt- and stand here just taking in the rope”. So when I fell off and was hanging in space. The dude is trying to lower me and says “you gotta unweight the rope”. “How?” I replied.
So he yanks the deal- I free fall about 15 feet!!!

Another time- but climbing with a real AMGA- single pitch GUIDE- he forgot to protect the 2nd (me) on a climb that had the crux followed by a 20 foot traverse then more up. So I blow crux and slide sideways…. I’m hanging in space, again. The Guide asks the same question “can you unweight the rope? “No” I said… Next thing- I’m on the deck- this time my ankle is hurting and the weekend is over.

So whenever I see one of those on my belayers harness. I ask “do you have anything else to belay with??”

F those things. 

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

One of the very first reviews of the ATC Guide was done by someone who has / had an MP username.  I thought it was Vegas Trad Guy but that search draws a blank. The review of guide mode very politely said it was dodge-y and should first be practiced in a safe environment.

Get better partners! ;)

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Dating myself here too but I hate the Petzl Neox!  Why?
Impossible to load the rope.
Impossible to rap on.
Impossible to rack when not in use.

If Petzl would start selling them.... I could change my mind. : -) 

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 290

Devices I've used: ATC (BD, Petzl, WC), Mammut Smart 2.0, Megajul, Grigri, CT AlpineUp, Gigi if that counts

At the bottom of my list is the Smart 2.0. It works fine, it's super light, but it makes no sense to me that it's only single channel. And I know the alpine smart was 2 channel but they don't make it any more and the device as a whole just looks like some weird sad dong. ATC in all forms is down there too but it's just classic and has a lot of uses so I could never hate it, I just prefer others over it. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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