Best non-US destination for easy (5.8-5.10) sport climbing in July/August

Howdy! I'd like to venture outside the US to climb this summer. My group is mostly interested in jumping on fun, easy-ish sport routes in an interesting place. Bonus points if there are classic multi-pitch routes worth doing. Some current (vague!) contenders are BC, the Dolomites, Lofoten, Slovenia, and Croatia. Kalymnos was originally high on the list, but it looks like July/August would be super hot. Appreciate any suggestions!   

Dolomites meet your criteria. But it's very crowded there in July, August. 

Lofoten is world-class but nearly all trad. Most of the famous French/Spanish/Greek single-pitch sport venues are far too hot in July/August. Ceuse is the exception but is not the best spot for the grades you indicate. 

Possible European venues include the sub-Alps in France, Switzerland, Italy and Austria. For example, the Ecrins and Briancon areas of France have a good mix of sport and longer routes. Allefroid (Ecrins) has friendly camping, good bouldering, reasonable single pitch sport, and great multi-pitch sport. 

The Interlaken-Grindenwald-Meiringen area of Switzerland has some decent single-pitch sport and great mountain ambience multi-pitch. Really beautiful, Swiss prices. 

The Dolomites, or the Austrian equivalents further north, would be good; again the sport climbing is not amazing but the longer routes and general ambience are. 

All these places are somewhat subject to mountain weather and quite busy in summer as they are popular tourist destinations. None of them are cheap, especially Switzerland.  

The Asturias, northern Spain, is cooler than most of that country; you're also close to the Picos de Europa for some great multipitch. Good but not world-class ie not quite worth a trip from the USA in my view. 

duncan... wrote:

Lofoten is world-class but nearly all trad. Most of the famous French/Spanish/Greek single-pitch sport venues are far too hot in July/August. Ceuse is the exception but is not the best spot for the grades you indicate. 

Possible European venues include the sub-Alps in France, Switzerland, Italy and Austria. For example, the Ecrins and Briancon areas of France have a good mix of sport and longer routes. Allefroid (Ecrins) has friendly camping, good bouldering, reasonable single pitch sport, and great multi-pitch sport. 

The Interlaken-Grindenwald-Meiringen area of Switzerland has some decent single-pitch sport and great mountain ambience multi-pitch. Really beautiful, Swiss prices. 

The Dolomites, or the Austrian equivalents further north, would be good; again the sport climbing is not amazing but the longer routes and general ambience are. 

All these places are somewhat subject to Mountain weather and quite busy in summer as they are popular tourist destinations. None of them are cheap, especially Switzerland.  

The Asturias, northern Spain, is cooler than most of that country; you're also close to the Picos de Europa for some great multipitch. Good but not world-class ie not quite worth a trip from the USA in my view. 

 

Thanks for the detailed response! Really appreciate it. 

How exotic do you want to be? There are undoubtedly a number of places in South America that would fit your criteria, especially places up in the mountains--to avoid the Southern Hemisphere summer heat, though I don't have any specific recommendations for that part of the world. I think the bulk of the sport areas in Australia would likely be too hot at that time of the year. South Africa will be similar, though I do believe that there are some areas there that are tolerable in the summer.

On the other side of the equation, you mentioned BC ( and should also include Alberta). There are definitely multiple areas  that meet your needs in western Canada, such as limestone routes in the Bow Valley or quartzite around Lake Louise on the eastern side of the Rockies or various areas close to the coast or others more inland in BC. Either locale, while meeting your 'not US' criteria, would still be easily accessible.

Seeing that you are in Boston, even closer to home, but still 'not US', there are many excellent sport climbing areas with moderate routes in Quebec and Ontario, though the multi-pitch options are less available. Quebec, in particular, feels very much like being in Europe, but at much less the expense. A particular favorite of mine is Kamouraska, about 1.5 hours east of Quebec City close to the south shore of fhe St. Lawrence---mostly single pitch but on excellent rock and in an extremely scenic location. There are numerous other areas in the Province as well--a search on here or the Federation Québécois de La Montagne et Escalade ( FQME) website will provide you with plenty of options. Ontario, too, has many possibilities.

As stated by others, there are an incredible number of options in Europe. At that time of year, you should be considering locations in either the lower Alps or valleys in the main areas. These days, pretty much any region in will have multiple sport climbing options. Above, Duncan mentioned the area around Interlaken, etc--the area of the Grimsel-Furka-Susten passes. This region is a personal favorite and the location of several of my all-time favorite climbs. I haven't been there for many years and when we climbed there, most routes were trad or mixed, but it is my understanding that there are now many fully bolted routes as well---single and multi-pitch and many of very reasonable grades. Similarly worthwhile areas can be found in other parts of Switzerland, France, Italy, Austria, Germany and Slovenia--though in the latter country, the routes in the mountain areas often tend to be on not the best quality rock, while the more famous cragging areas are at much lower altitude and tend to be very hot in the summer, Croatia even more so.

Maybe some combination should be: Slovenia for single pitch, Austria for multi pitch sport routes and Dolomites for classic routes. There are relative short distances.

Alan Rubin wrote:

 I think the bulk of the sport areas in Australia would likely be too hot at that time of the year.

And add humidity on top. I live here and climbing is out of question until weather starts to cool off which is approximately from mid-March depending on the area. Take up surfing as a good alternative. ;)

This rule does not apply to Tasmania which is heat-free in summer. But it's mostly trad and crack climbing. 

Alan Rubin wrote:

How exotic do you want to be? There are undoubtedly a number of places in South America that would fit your criteria, especially places up in the mountains--to avoid the Southern Hemisphere summer heat, though I don't have any specific recommendations for that part of the world. I think the bulk of the sport areas in Australia would likely be too hot at that time of the year. South Africa will be similar, though I do believe that there are some areas there that are tolerable in the summer.

On the other side of the equation, you mentioned BC ( and should also include Alberta). There are definitely multiple areas  that meet your needs in western Canada, such as limestone routes in the Bow Valley or quartzite around Lake Louise on the eastern side of the Rockies or various areas close to the coast or others more inland in BC. Either locale, while meeting your 'not US' criteria, would still be easily accessible.

Seeing that you are in Boston, even closer to home, but still 'not US', there are many excellent sport climbing areas with moderate routes in Quebec and Ontario, though the multi-pitch options are less available. Quebec, in particular, feels very much like being in Europe, but at much less the expense. A particular favorite of mine is Kamouraska, about 1.5 hours east of Quebec City close to the south shore of fhe St. Lawrence---mostly single pitch but on excellent rock and in an extremely scenic location. There are numerous other areas in the Province as well--a search on here or the Federation Québécois de La Montagne et Escalade ( FQME) website will provide you with plenty of options. Ontario, too, has many possibilities.

As stated by others, there are an incredible number of options in Europe. At that time of year, you should be considering locations in either the lower Alps or valleys in the main areas. These days, pretty much any region in will have multiple sport climbing options. Above, Duncan mentioned the area around Interlaken, etc--the area of the Grimsel-Furka-Susten passes. This region is a personal favorite and the location of several of my all-time favorite climbs. I haven't been there for many years and when we climbed there, most routes were trad or mixed, but it is my understanding that there are now many fully bolted routes as well---single and multi-pitch and many of very reasonable grades. Similarly worthwhile areas can be found in other parts of Switzerland, France, Italy, Austria, Germany and Slovenia--though in the latter country, the routes in the mountain areas often tend to be on not the best quality rock, while the more famous cragging areas are at much lower altitude and tend to be very hot in the summer, Croatia even more so.

Awesome suggestions here, thanks. The Swiss/French/Italian Alps might be our best bet -- sounds like there's a good combination of high-density sport climbing, scenery, accommodations, and accessibility. 

Check out Briancon, France. Amazing summer bolted milti pitchin!

Dan C wrote:

Howdy! I'd like to venture outside the US to climb this summer. My group is mostly interested in jumping on fun, easy-ish sport routes in an interesting place. Bonus points if there are classic multi-pitch routes worth doing. Some current (vague!) contenders are BC, the Dolomites, Lofoten, Slovenia, and Croatia. Kalymnos was originally high on the list, but it looks like July/August would be super hot. Appreciate any suggestions!   

Bavella and Restonica, Corsica,  offer trad, sport and mixed sport/trad routes on textured granite. Hollowed granite caused by erosion forms beautiful huecos named Tafoni and are exhilarating to climb. Temperatures in Bavella and Restonica are comfortable because of the high elevation. Coastal areas are hot during the summer months.  The beaches and hiking are second to none.

Alan Rubin wrote:

How exotic do you want to be? There are undoubtedly a number of places in South America that would fit your criteria, especially places up in the mountains--to avoid the Southern Hemisphere summer heat, though I don't have any specific recommendations for that part of the world. I think the bulk of the sport areas in Australia would likely be too hot at that time of the year. South Africa will be similar, though I do believe that there are some areas there that are tolerable in the summer.

July & Aug are winter months in the southern hemisphere.

rocknice2 wrote:

July & Aug are winter months in the southern hemisphere.

And tend to be very rainy…especially in South America. 

Itatim - Brazil

Great weather, easy approaches and awesome climbing! A lot of easy routes (sport/trad, single-pitch/multi-pitch). 

Two of the Fifty Brazilian Classic Climbs are in Itatim.

Very unique and outstanding place.

https://tradfriends.com/2022/01/03/itatim-a-brazilian-climbing-paradise/

I've visited Mexico the past two summers, so am partial to it, but this would be on my list:  https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106121301/pena-de-bernal

Inexpensive, great food and long mellow multipitch routes.  You can get your fill of culture too in Mexico City.  

Brooks K wrote:

Check out Briancon, France. Amazing summer bolted milti pitchin!

This is a good option and fairly quick from Boston. So many other nearby climbing areas as well to fill out an itinerary. This is the Briancon book we used. A wide variety in the immediate area.