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Critique my Denali layering system / Eddie Bauer Downclime Alpine Parka

Original Post
John Luckey · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 0

I have no experience in extreme cold. I am trying to aquire the right gear, and/or make sure what I have is adequate for the west buttress in late May/early June. If you have climbed Denali (or anything similarly cold) and have any feedback on my current setup I would appreciate it.

-lightweight base layer(s), TBD

-patagonia R1 for active insulation, no hood

-arcteryx atom LT, active insulation. With hood.

-outdoor research ferrosi softshell. With hood

-arcteryx beta AR, hardshell. With hood.

-eddie Bauer evertherm jacket. Active/passive insulation. With hood. ~30g of down, no stitches.

-eddie Bauer Downclime Alpine Parka. Heavy parka for cold conditions. 277g of 800-fill down, plus I would estimate 30g of additional synthetic insulation in arms, shoulders, and some of the torso. Not fully baffled - sections of the body are stitched.

My one item of concern is the fact that the parka isn't fully baffled. It is extremely warm, though, and has a relatively high fill weight. I don't necessarily want to drop $400+ on a new parka if this one is adequate, especially if I'm able to maybe add another layer or two underneath to make my setup warm enough.

Are there any major red flags? Anything I should get rid of? Anything I should definitely add? Thanks in advance for any advice.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

You would be better off leaving the beta and bringing an oversized houdini for heavy wind. You need some insulated trousers, I think the BD stance are quite popular for this though you have a lot of options. 

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 203

Don’t use the downclimb. Get an Eddie Bauer Peak XV.

They’re on eBay all the time for $250, I got mine for $175 shipped. More down and more durable.


after selling your downclimb you’ll have a better jacket for not much money.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
John Luckey wrote:

I have no experience in extreme cold. I am trying to aquire the right gear, and/or make sure what I have is adequate for the west buttress in late May/early June. If you have climbed Denali (or anything similarly cold) and have any feedback on my current setup I would appreciate it.

Perhaps before spending $$ on gear and a trip to the great white north get some experience in extreme cold. You can have "right" gear but if you can't figure out how to take shit when it is 40 below and blowing snow up yer ass yer without freezing yer balls and fingers the gear will not matter.

John Luckey · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 0
Ross Goldberg wrote:

Don’t use the downclimb. Get an Eddie Bauer Peak XV.

They’re on eBay all the time for $250, I got mine for $175 shipped. More down and more durable.


after selling your downclimb you’ll have a better jacket for not much money.

Thanks. I have heard good things about this jacket for the money.

John Luckey · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:

You would be better off leaving the beta and bringing an oversized houdini for heavy wind. You need some insulated trousers, I think the BD stance are quite popular for this though you have a lot of options. 

Yep still need to figure out my lower body. Why ditch the beta? Overkill in terms of weight? I'm obviously not going to need the rain-stopping capabilities 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
John Luckey wrote:

Yep still need to figure out my lower body. Why ditch the beta? Overkill in terms of weight? I'm obviously not going to need the rain-stopping capabilities 

You want a jacket that can stop wind more than anything, the beta is heavy, bulky and can form condensation in cold temps. The houdini is a coated nylon which will do well in low temps and cut the wind well enough, get it big enough to fit over all your down jacket and you'll also gain significant warmth for very little weight.

The peak xv is a monster of a jacket and no doubt would keep you warm but imo better served as a belay jacket than any big mountain stuff(not that it wouldn't work). I got one for my ex and i was amazed when it could nearly stay up right when zipped up and placed on the floor. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/121876078/mh-nilas

This thread has someone describe the downclime as a nicer warmer nilas which is already a common jacket on denali. So I think the downclime is probably fine. 

John Luckey · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/121876078/mh-nilas

This thread has someone describe the downclime as a nicer warmer nilas which is already a common jacket on denali. So I think the downclime is probably fine. 

Thanks, I appreciate the research 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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