Easiest Overhanging Climbs And Roofs

Maybe a dumb question but as someone who is just starting out I’m aspiring to one day be able to climb some of those amazing overhangs I keep watching on YouTube. What’s the grade I need to aim for? Are there any known roofs or severe overhangs that are super juggy and might not require a super high level of technicality or professional level grip and finger strength? What routes can you recommend?

P.S. This is not trolling 

Go to the red. Can get quite steep in the 10 to 11 range

Go to the Gunks. Shockley's, High Exposure, Madame G, are all sub 5.9 roofs.

Plenty of overhanging 5.6 at JT, should be able to find 5.8 roofs almost anywhere steep

Gunks are iconic for what you seek.

Here are a couple classic examples:

Creature Feature 5.9

High Exposure 5.6

I created a similar forum a while back

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122626884/what-are-the-steepest-most-over-hung-moderate-routes-in-america

I seem to remember a small roof at the top of The Line at Lovers Leap that was fun and easy with great location and exposure.  Its been almost 40 years so I might be mistaken.

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

I seem to remember a small roof at the top of The Line at Lovers Leap that was fun and easy with great location and exposure.  Its been almost 40 years so I might be mistaken.

The leap has multiple roofs at low grades. They're awesome. Red Rock canyon has some great ones too that are even more visually impressive and even easier! 

The gunks has plenty in the 5.6-5.11 range with wild roofs on climbs like shockley’s ceiling, high e, easy o, modern times and the dangler, all 5.8 or easier. the red has some of the softest 5.11 cave climbs you will find anywhere, starry night 5.11b, air ride equipped 5.10c, king me 11a and some steep easier climbs too. Rumney has some pretty darn steep 5.10s and 11s too. 

Ricky Harline wrote:

The leap has multiple roofs at low grades. They're awesome. Red Rock canyon has some great ones too that are even more visually impressive and even easier! 

The leap has loads of fun easy roofs on several routes, I agree. But I think the OP wants them to be bigger. Like you’re actually climbing on the underside of the roof or very steep section. I don’t recall any easy roofs at the leap that are more than reaching for the lip/jam and just pulling 1-2 moves to get past it. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105909747/kachoong

drew A wrote:

 I think the OP wants them to be bigger. Like you’re actually climbing on the underside of the roof or very steep section. I don’t recall any easy roofs at the leap that are more than reaching for the lip/jam and just pulling 1-2 moves to get past it. 

Spot On 

cieneguita wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105909747/kachoong

Oh yeah. But wrong continent   

Nick Budka wrote:

the red has some of the softest 5.11 cave climbs you will find anywhere, starry night 5.11b, air ride equipped 5.10c, king me 11a and some steep easier climbs too. 

Lol many are about to be triggered by this. Nice trolling

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106413869/meathooks

Gunk's is the absolute king of Sub 5.9 roofs. Boatloads in the 5 .5 5.7 range without even dipping into the 8 and 9 roofs. 

Ben G wrote:

What’s the grade I need to aim for? Are there any known roofs or severe overhangs that are super juggy and might not require a super high level of technicality or professional level grip and finger strength? What routes can you recommend?

P.S. This is not trolling 

At 5.12c you'll be able to climb a ton of rad overhanging rock. It might sound lofty and it might take you a few years to get there, but it's worth the effort. 

And what if the real overhangs are the friends you make along the way??

I did a fun sport climb in Gollum's Cave near Aspen CO this summer called Escher's Staircase that starts out 45 degrees overhanging for a few bolts then goes to maybe 15 degrees overhanging at the top section. Thanks to glorious jugs the whole way it only clocks in at 5.10b!

All the roofs at the gunks are soft, people just hype them up because they’re scared

Tristan P wrote:

Go to the red. Can get quite steep in the 10 to 11 range

Red Rocks? Or Red River?