Does climbing shoe rubber go "bad"?
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I'm getting back into climbing after quite a long hiatus. Pulled out my 5.10 shoes circa 2001, and I'm wondering how shot the rubber is? It looks fine, isn't cracking, not totally worn down. Before I plop down money on new shoes, I was going to use these to get me back into the swing. But climbing in crap shoes is no fun, so if the rubber goes junky after a few years (like rope, etc.), then I'll suck it up and get some new ones. |
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My 5.10s from the late 90's are still fine. I bought 3 pairs back in the day, and used 2. The third sat in a storage container under my bed. Aside from the rand migrating a little, the rubber seems fine. Climb on them & see what you think. |
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The rubber surface will oxidize over time. If not cracked, I'd use them. Want to "freshen up" the rubber? You can scrub with a hard nylon bristle brush. Or, you can also use an old cotton tee shirt with a bit of solvent on it. Try a small amount in an area that doesn't matter first. Solvents like Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover or Vaseline petroleum jelly work. Spread on a very thin layer, wait a few minutes and then buff it off with a dry cotton tee shirt. It works because it's a "solvent" for rubber and other similar materials. Which is why you never, ever use Vaseline with a condom. |
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A noted above over time rubber oxides thus breaking down the vulcanization and strength. Sidebar - vehicle tires over ten years old should not be used for this very reason. Especially the spare tire. |
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wivanoff wrote: Quoting this for more people to see this. Extremely helpful tip if anyone has shoes that have been laying around a while or just need some tackiness. I bought a pair of new old stock mythos that were apparently made in 2006. (so old they had XS grip instead of XS Edge rubber). I used the thin layer of vaseline trick to take off a layer of oxidation and they're rejuvenated. Did the same to a 10+yr old pair of miuras and random other old gym shoes (the rubber gets glassy from mainly climbing indoors+age). Thanks, Andy |
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Eric M wrote: Did the same thing last year. The C4 rubber on my 5.10 shoes is still good. Worked fine except my feet grew. |
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Sand it |
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I'm in my mid seventies now and don't climb that often. My Edge soles got hard faster than any other rubber. I've tried several ideas to "renew" them but none seem to have worked all that well - at some point (like now) I'm just going to go for a resole. |
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Chris Rice wrote: You can sand off the “oxidation” layer? I did that with 30 year old Stealth C4, and it worked. My issue was stuffing my feet into shoes that were too tight back then and impossibly small now. |
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rock climbing wrote: The goal IS to attack and soften the material. At least the oxidized surface. Anything you put on the rubber is rubbed off before "the long run" occurs. And in the "really long run" you will likely have resoled the shoes. |
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rock climbing wrote: I’m going through souls within two months. That sounds evil. Seriously though, my new shoes have half soles and only the toe edges are wearing. I wonder if a half or 1/3 of the half sole can be replaced? Less material and waste? |
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I often find that the glues securing the rubber will go bad with time. I have seen old climbing shoe rubber crack and split in rare cases. |
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rock climbing wrote: Many people have "freshened up" the rubber on their shoes as described up thread and had good results. You're arguing with success. Don't knock something you haven't tried. |
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Li Hu wrote: Sure. I have several pair that look like this (DIY "toe job" rubber). They're not my go hard/best effort/redpoint/whatever shoes, but it lets me get 2-3X the usual life out of them. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Looks great! Nice work! |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Curious.. where did you get the rubber for this? Can you point me in the direction of a kit? Thanks! |
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JImmy M wrote: The rubber was peeled off from other dead shoes (the larger the better). Heat gently over camp stove and peel off with pliers. Buff off old glue residue with a belt sander and glue on with Barge cement. Sole of "recipient shoes" is thinned over the appropriate area with the belt sander and/or a cutter bit in a rotary tool. EDIT - I've also used scraps of the new rubber in the Mtn Tools resole kit. Shoes pictured probably are a mix of this and the re-used approach described above.. |
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wivanoff wrote: "Want to "freshen up" the rubber? Use Vaseline. Which is why you never, ever use Vaseline with a condom." Now you tell me. :( I always wondered how I got the clap from that donkey. |
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hillbilly hijinks wrote: Username checks out :) |