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Does climbing shoe rubber go "bad"?

Original Post
Eric M · · Andover, MA · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 0

I'm getting back into climbing after quite a long hiatus.  Pulled out my 5.10 shoes circa 2001, and I'm wondering how shot the rubber is?  It looks fine, isn't cracking, not totally worn down.  Before I plop down money on new shoes, I was going to use these to get me back into the swing.  But climbing in crap shoes is no fun, so if the rubber goes junky after a few years (like rope, etc.), then I'll suck it up and get some new ones.

Matt B · · Carlisle, PA · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 1

My 5.10s from the late 90's are still fine.  I bought 3 pairs back in the day, and used 2.  The third sat in a storage container under my bed.  Aside from the rand migrating a little, the rubber seems fine.  Climb on them & see what you think. 

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719

The rubber surface will oxidize over time. If not cracked, I'd use them.

Want to "freshen up" the rubber? 

You can scrub with a hard nylon bristle brush. Or, you can also use an old cotton tee shirt with a bit of solvent on it. Try a small amount in an area that doesn't matter first. Solvents like Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover or Vaseline petroleum jelly work. Spread on a very thin layer, wait a few minutes and then buff it off with a dry cotton tee shirt. It works because it's a "solvent" for rubber and other similar materials. Which is why you never, ever use Vaseline with a condom.
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/kcob9i/all_shoes_cleaned_and_conditioned_for_winter_much/

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

A noted above over time rubber oxides thus breaking down the vulcanization and strength.

Sidebar - vehicle tires over ten years old should not be used for this very reason. Especially the spare tire.

Andy R · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 45
wivanoff wrote:

The rubber surface will oxidize over time. If not cracked, I'd use them.

Want to "freshen up" the rubber? 

You can scrub with a hard nylon bristle brush. Or, you can also use an old cotton tee shirt with a bit of solvent on it. Try a small amount in an area that doesn't matter first. Solvents like Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover or Vaseline petroleum jelly work. Spread on a very thin layer, wait a few minutes and then buff it off with a dry cotton tee shirt. It works because it's a "solvent" for rubber and other similar materials. Which is why you never, ever use Vaseline with a condom.
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/kcob9i/all_shoes_cleaned_and_conditioned_for_winter_much/

Quoting this for more people to see this. Extremely helpful tip if anyone has shoes that have been laying around a while or just need some tackiness.

I bought a pair of new old stock mythos that were apparently made in 2006. (so old they had XS grip instead of XS Edge rubber). I used the thin layer of vaseline trick to take off a layer of oxidation and they're rejuvenated. Did the same to a 10+yr old pair of miuras and random other old gym shoes (the rubber gets glassy from mainly climbing indoors+age).

Thanks,

Andy

Li Hu · · Different places · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 55
Eric M wrote:

I'm getting back into climbing after quite a long hiatus.  Pulled out my 5.10 shoes circa 2001, and I'm wondering how shot the rubber is?  It looks fine, isn't cracking, not totally worn down.  Before I plop down money on new shoes, I was going to use these to get me back into the swing.  But climbing in crap shoes is no fun, so if the rubber goes junky after a few years (like rope, etc.), then I'll suck it up and get some new ones.

Did the same thing last year. The C4 rubber on my 5.10 shoes is still good. Worked fine except my feet grew.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Sand it

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I'm in my mid seventies now and don't climb that often.  My Edge soles got hard faster than any other rubber.  I've tried several ideas to "renew" them but none seem to have worked all that well - at some point (like now) I'm just going to go for a resole.

Li Hu · · Different places · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 55
Chris Rice wrote:

I'm in my mid seventies now and don't climb that often.  My Edge soles got hard faster than any other rubber.  I've tried several ideas to "renew" them but none seem to have worked all that well - at some point (like now) I'm just going to go for a resole.

You can sand off the “oxidation” layer?

I did that with 30 year old Stealth C4, and it worked. My issue was stuffing my feet into shoes that were too tight back then and impossibly small now.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719
rock climbing wrote:

It is common to hear that coating a rubber with a greasy substance such as oil or petroleum jelly makes it more flexible. This seemingly logical gesture should be avoided at all costs! In the short term the rubber will soften and gain flexibility, but in the long run the lubricant will attack the material. The only rubbers that are resistant to fats and oils are Viton Rubber (FKM) and Nitrile (NBR). If you want to lubricate a rubber to make it slippery during installation, put a drop of dishwashing liquid. This makes the rubber slip without attacking it.

The goal IS to attack and soften the material. At least the oxidized surface. Anything you put on the rubber is rubbed off before "the long run" occurs.  And in the "really long run" you will likely have resoled the shoes.

Li Hu · · Different places · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 55
rock climbing wrote:

You are right we go through the rubber before it goes it goes bad. It is why they stoped using rubber that has a life span of 30 years on the climbing shoes. 

I’m going through souls within two months. That sounds evil.  

Seriously though, my new shoes have half soles and only the toe edges are wearing. I wonder if a half or 1/3 of the half sole can be replaced? Less material and waste?

Jay J · · Euelss · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5

I often find that the glues securing the rubber will go bad with time.  I have seen old climbing shoe rubber crack and split in rare cases.  

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719
rock climbing wrote:

You are right we go through the rubber before it goes it goes bad. It is why they stoped using rubber that has a life span of 30 years on the climbing shoes.

Oxidation is on the surface but the hole rubber gets hard not only on the the surface.  UV and chemicals leak out of it. Once that happens it soaks even more in stuff even more than usual.

The reason they use Vocs based glues is because it penetrates better than water based  

Many people have "freshened up" the rubber on their shoes as described up thread and had good results. You're arguing with success. Don't knock something you haven't tried.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
Li Hu wrote:

I’m going through souls within two months. That sounds evil.  

Seriously though, my new shoes have half soles and only the toe edges are wearing. I wonder if a half or 1/3 of the half sole can be replaced? Less material and waste?

Sure. I have several pair that look like this (DIY "toe job" rubber). They're not my go hard/best effort/redpoint/whatever shoes, but it lets me get 2-3X the usual life out of them.

Return to Sender · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2024 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

Sure. I have several pair that look like this (DIY "toe job" rubber). They're not my go hard/best effort/redpoint/whatever shoes, but it lets me get 2-3X the usual life out of them.

Looks great! Nice work!

JImmy M · · Everett, WA · Joined Mar 2024 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

Sure. I have several pair that look like this (DIY "toe job" rubber). They're not my go hard/best effort/redpoint/whatever shoes, but it lets me get 2-3X the usual life out of them.

Curious.. where did you get the rubber for this?  Can you point me in the direction of a kit?

Thanks!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
JImmy M wrote:

Curious.. where did you get the rubber for this?  Can you point me in the direction of a kit?

Thanks!

The rubber was peeled off from other dead shoes (the larger the better). Heat gently over camp stove and peel off with pliers. Buff off old glue residue with a belt sander and glue on with Barge cement. Sole of "recipient shoes" is thinned over the appropriate area with the belt sander and/or a cutter bit in a rotary tool.

EDIT - I've also used scraps of the new rubber in the Mtn Tools resole kit. Shoes pictured probably are a mix of this and the re-used approach described above..

hillbilly hijinks · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 193
wivanoff wrote: "Want to "freshen up" the rubber? Use Vaseline. Which is why you never, ever use Vaseline with a condom."

Now you tell me. :(

I always wondered how I got the clap from that donkey.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719
hillbilly hijinks wrote:

Now you tell me. :(

I always wondered how I got the clap from that donkey.

Username checks out :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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