Refugio Frey, Bariloche Argentina Advice

My wife and I will be trad climbing in the Frey area near Bariloche during the end of December and beginning of January. Any advice on what to bring, climb, etc? Specifically, how much snow will there be on approaches to climbs and will mountaineering boots, crampons, and ice axes be necessary? Thanks!!!

Kyle, I’ve been there twice. Never had any need for boots or crampons or ax but i was there a bit later in the season and I don’t know current conditions you will find. Maybe someone will have current info here for you.

We had planned on a week but ended up staying two because the climbing is just so fun. We camped above the lake in a nice spot in some small trees so just we had the usual tent camping stuff and food that we stretched by going to the hut for pizza. A big bonus! As to what to climb we didn’t climb anything bad. Imaginate on the Slovenian needle was especially good i recall. The routes just above the hut were good I can’t remember many other of the route names but you will find plenty of excellent climbing.

As i recall the hike up took us maybe 4 hours.

Norm Larson wrote:

Kyle, I’ve been there twice. Never had any need for boots or crampons or ax but i was there a bit later in the season and I don’t know current conditions you will find. Maybe someone will have current info here for you.

We had planned on a week but ended up staying two because the climbing is just so fun. We camped above the lake in a nice spot in some small trees so just we had the usual tent camping stuff and food that we stretched by going to the hut for pizza. A big bonus! As to what to climb we didn’t climb anything bad. Imaginate on the Slovenian needle was especially good i recall. The routes just above the hut were good I can’t remember many other of the route names but you will find plenty of excellent climbing.

As i recall the hike up took us maybe 4 hours.

Thank you, Norm!!

Great idea by Norm on camping above the lake for better p&q and visiting the hut for pizza and wine. Or take a day off and go resupply in town. I stayed a week but wish I would’ve had 2. I was there in Jan I think. End of Dec should be close to prime time summer in the southern hemisphere and little snow to encounter. It was all approach shoes, no pons axe needed in Jan. But would be wise on tracking down current year conditions. 

Torre Principal is the not to miss summit, high up hanging out with the condors. We did Clemenzo, a surprisingly good historical route with very unique pitches. We took a standard doubles rack + one four and a #11 hex which was good for most but I remember wishing I had a 5 or 6 for some other wider pitch climbs and wish I had it on Clemenzo’s wide pitch. 

The Frey is amazing! We were there in February last year and the weather was perfect. We took a double rack up to 4 and didn't miss a thing, if you like the wide you can bring more but we had plenty to do. You should be able to get around just fine in your regular approach shoes, no need for axes or crampons. On a rest day (if there is such a thing there) we went on a long hike around the surrounding areas which are just as stunning the Frey proper.

The hut is alpine heaven! definitely enjoy the wine, pizza, and empanadas! I think last year the bill for a pizza and two bottles of wine was around $25.

An aside, Argentina's economy isn't doing so hot, we brought some larger american bills and the locals in town and at the hut were stoked to help us out. That being said, we mayyyy have paid a little extra for some taxi rides but everyone was very friendly and eager to get us to where we needed to go. They would change us out in pesos so know the exchange rates before making some deals. My buddy gave me "Che Beludo: A Gringos Guide to Understanding the Argentines" which I thought was hilarious but also helpful for just simple interactions around town and while traveling. I also highly recommend purchasing the guide book for the area by Rolando - there's way more then what's listed on MP - and support a local legend.

Have fun down there!