Best Screws for Ice Climbing

Trying to learn Davinci Resolve so I could make better expedition/adventure documentaries. Making videos is hard! 

Would this be more appropriate in the Ice Climbing forum? 

Overlooking the CAMP Rocket screw was a significant missed opportunity. 

I had one of those to try, and personally don't love when brands are trying to combine draws with screws. Because I do more mixed or mountain climbing, it is more practical to separate rock protection, ice protection and slings/draws. And to be light. I guess I could have mentioned that. :/ 

The rocket doesnt have a build in draw

https://www.camp.it/m/us/us/outdoor/product/3517

Jake S wrote:

The rocket doesnt have a build in draw

https://www.camp.it/m/us/us/outdoor/product/3517

Confused it with Rocket plus. :) Too many screws out there. 

I only compared screws I bought over the years. If anyone wants to send me the Rocket, PM me and I'll be happy to try it out. 

SirTobyThe3rd M wrote:

Confused it with Rocket plus. :) Too many screws out there. 

I only compared screws I bought over the years. If anyone wants to send me the Rocket, PM me and I'll be happy to try it out. 

I'll send you a 13 cm Rocket (not the Plus) if you send me a Blue Ice steel 13.

Gunkiemike wrote:

I'll send you a 13 cm Rocket (not the Plus) if you send me a Blue Ice steel 13.

Blue Diamond ice screws are larger in diameter, so it’s safer to re-use holes created by other screws. In my experience, they bite and go in as fast as I’ve seen a screw go in. Their steel model in 16cm seems a 30(!) g lighter than Camp Rocket. I’m pretty psyched on them…

What is it about Rockets that makes you adore them so much? What made you choose to purchase some in the first place?

My hesitation with an exchange is getting an inferior product after unloading a lot of money on a new rack I’m completely psyched on, at the moment…but I might not see something obvious. I’m totally open minded though.

Blue ice are great screws. However, camp rockets are also great screws. Here's some thoughts why one might choose them over the blue ice:

• Blue ice QC needs some work. Aside from the hopefully fixed knob issue, the machining on the bore is horribly inconsistent (I've been looking at them in stores and the variation is huge, to the point I won't buy online) and two I've seen had premature and large areas of nickel plating break off of the base steel.
• Blue ice are about 1cm shorter than advertised (vs BD or camp at least)
• Camp are often cheaper
• Camp seem to start and place at least as well (maybe better?)

Flip side: apparently camp hangers become floppy. Minor weight penalty. Smaller diameter

mtnmandan wrote:

Blue ice are great screws. However, camp rockets are also great screws. Here's some thoughts why one might choose them over the blue ice:

• Blue ice QC needs some work. Aside from the hopefully fixed knob issue, the machining on the bore is horribly inconsistent (I've been looking at them in stores and the variation is huge, to the point I won't buy online) and two I've seen had premature and large areas of nickel plating break off of the base steel.
• Blue ice are about 1cm shorter than advertised (vs BD or camp at least)
• Camp are often cheaper
• Camp seem to start and place at least as well (maybe better?)

Flip side: apparently camp hangers become floppy. Minor weight penalty. Smaller diameter

A friend of mine saw the thread and said he will let me check his Camp Rockets, or order on a prodeal.
He personally prefers Blue Ice however. We will get to the bottom of this! Lol

Very good video from BD. Makes me feel better about going about 50/50 in my ice screw rack, and recommending steel for people who are newer to ice climbing.

SirTobyThe3rd M wrote:

Blue Diamond ice screws are larger in diameter, so it’s safer to re-use holes created by other screws. In my experience, they bite and go in as fast as I’ve seen a screw go in. Their steel model in 16cm seems a 30(!) g lighter than Camp Rocket. I’m pretty psyched on them…

What is it about Rockets that makes you adore them so much? What made you choose to purchase some in the first place?

My hesitation with an exchange is getting an inferior product after unloading a lot of money on a new rack I’m completely psyched on, at the moment…but I might not see something obvious. I’m totally open minded though.

I bring up the Rocket (and offered the trade) not because I think they are - cue the blaring trumpets - THE BEST, but because "The Ultimate Ice Screw Showdown" really should include what is IMO the best traditional steel screw on the market today. Traditional = not oversize.  A trade would put a Rocket in your hands and a BI steel in my hands, Thus we both get to experience screws that we don't currently own. And that's fun, no?

Are the Blue Ice even better? Quite possibly, depending what factors one weighs in making such a judgement. The 13s I carry these days are a mix of BI aluminum and Rockets. They are both fantastic.

Gunkiemike wrote:

I bring up the Rocket (and offered the trade) not because I think they are - cue the blaring trumpets - THE BEST, but because "The Ultimate Ice Screw Showdown" really should include what is IMO the best traditional steel screw on the market today. Traditional = not oversize.  A trade would put a Rocket in your hands and a BI steel in my hands, Thus we both get to experience screws that we don't currently own. And that's fun, no?

Are the Blue Ice even better? Quite possibly, depending what factors one weighs in making such a judgement. The 13s I carry these days are a mix of BI aluminum and Rockets. They are both fantastic.

I totally understand! I’ll use a friend’s and see if it’s worth the effort to make a different steel to steel comparison between those.

Just wanted to bring more awareness to gear that a lot of people not aware of. And learning about more in the process :)

This is what my friend said who used both, so I wasn’t all that excited or caring to trade anything, with someone random I don’t know, especially since I can borrow from someone I know locally:

“Yes, I like the blue ice steel the best, personally. 

There’s no good reason for the camp rocket over the blue ice, but it’s probably the fastest starting screw on the market right now. However, it’s heavier, the diameter is smaller, and it’s arguable that the blue ice steel screws start as fast. I think Rockets not as good, overall, as the blue ice steel. “

SirTobyThe3rd M wrote:

I totally understand! I’ll use a friend’s and see if it’s worth the effort to make a different steel to steel comparison between those.

Just wanted to bring more awareness to gear that a lot of people not aware of. And learning about more in the process :)

This is what my friend said who used both, so I wasn’t all that excited or caring to trade anything, with someone random I don’t know, especially since I can borrow from someone I know locally:

“Yes, I like the blue ice steel the best, personally. 

There’s no good reason for the camp rocket over the blue ice, but it’s probably the fastest starting screw on the market right now. However, it’s heavier, the diameter is smaller, and it’s arguable that the blue ice steel screws start as fast. I think Rockets not as good, overall, as the blue ice steel. “

I have both the blue ice steels and camp rockets and can say that I think blue ice is lighter, sexier, and bites in as well as the rockets. Maybe in some cases better than the rocket due to three teeth and bigger diameter? A very marginal difference that I’ve seen only in brittle, clear, and drier ice. 

A huge point of consideration is that you can buy two 13cm rockets for the price of 1 blue ice 13cm. So if the small weight savings and sexiness is worth a whole screw then that’s your choice to make.

Another thing to consider is that the camp rockets have a larger racking hole than the already large petzl lasers and IMO racks on the caritool very tight and orderly. You can get 7 screws in a small petzl caritool and still have their orientation pointing down instead of fanning out. 

One other minor detail that my brother pointed out is that the fixed part of the crank actual has a little bevel in the ice side of the handle. When trying to get that last half or quarter turn it actual cuts or plows the ice out of the way so that you reduce the amount times you have to back out the screw or use a tool to clear the ice. Not sure if intentional but a cool piece of info worth pointing out.

All in all if they were the same price the slight edge goes to Blue ice steel. But that’s just not the truth. Time will tell too how well they hold up. Reach back out in a season or two. 

Artem Vee wrote:

The blue ice hangers are prone to bending if you load them not along the main axis - I still like them, just keep this in mind. 

How often are you loading your screws this way?!?

Gunkiemike wrote:

Overlooking the CAMP Rocket screw was a significant missed opportunity. 

 This should be repeated.

OP, Place a couple before you shrug off the Camp Rockets as inferior to other screws.

Matthias W wrote:

A huge point of consideration is that you can buy two 13cm rockets for the price of 1 blue ice 13cm. So if the small weight savings and sexiness is worth a whole screw then that’s your choice to make.
All in all if they were the same price the slight edge goes to Blue ice steel. But that’s just not the truth. Time will tell too how well they hold up. Reach back out in a season or two. 

Via Google, I am seeing the CAMP rockets around $50 (street) and the Blue Ice steels at about $55 street price. Where are you seeing the CAMPs at around $25-ish?
Thank you.

Bill Kirby wrote:

 This should be repeated.

OP, Place a couple before you shrug off the Camp Rockets as inferior to other screws.

My CAMP crampons seem pretty reliable. I may need to update everything to Rockets. 

Bill Kirby wrote:

 This should be repeated.

OP, Place a couple before you shrug off the Camp Rockets as inferior to other screws.

I never shrugged them off as totally inferior but never personally used any. Nor did I hear about them being better than BI from friends who have used both. Now I have a nice rack that I love and I don’t have unlimited money to keep buying screws. If I knew more about them, prior to making that video, I’d include them!

As someone who climbs ice/mixed and big alpine routes at a pretty high level, I feel like I’ve been around enough, but haven’t even heard of BI screws before about a year ago, and haven’t seen many people using them. Since I decided to switch my whole rack, I wanted to raise more awareness of BI for people like me, who mostly trust all the main brands I compared them to in the video. Please, make a different video if you want all the screws compared and you have a lot to add.  

SirTobyThe3rd M wrote:

I never shrugged them off as totally inferior but never personally used any. Nor did I hear about them being better than BI from friends who have used both. Now I have a nice rack that I love and I don’t have unlimited money to keep buying screws. If I knew more about them, prior to making that video, I’d include them!

As someone who climbs ice/mixed and big alpine routes at a pretty high level, I feel like I’ve been around enough, but haven’t even heard of BI screws before about a year ago, and haven’t seen many people using them. Since I decided to switch my whole rack, I wanted to raise more awareness of BI for people like me, who mostly trust all the main brands I compared them to in the video. Please, make a different video if you want all the screws compared and you have a lot to add.  

Then you should have named your video the Blue Ice Showdown instead of the ultimate ice screw show down.

The Blue Ice screws are really nice to place, cheap and light. It is however quite obvious that the extreme weight savinings come at a cost. My firend got a bad screw that did not place well. We never figuired out what the problem was since the tip looked attached, no scrateches or similar. When that was the last he had to place on lead and it would not go in he placed a pick into it to torque it into place.The result was that the hanger cracked. I´m not confident that the hanger will hold a fall when it is not vertically oriented with the fall. I´m not buying Blue Ice despite them being light, cheap and very nice to place. I want a hanger that i can mildly abuse.

Some people would bitch about a winning lottery ticket I swear...