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Coping with Exposure
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Curiosity question... I was listening to The Nugget Climbing podcast recently, and the guest Pete Whitaker was telling a story about him and Tom Randall doing some big wall climbing in Yosemite. They had to eventually bail b/c Tom was struggling with the exposure. This struck me b/c I assumed an experienced climber like Tom would somehow mysteriously be able to cope with it. I had been recently pondering doing some multi-pitch climbing in 2024, but after hearing this, I started to wonder about how I'd cope with the exposure. Would it be a dealbreaker? I've never done anything higher than a single pitch. I've got a pretty sturdy fear of heights that I have to reckon with already... so I wonder if I'd fall apart 1500 ft up...? Can exposure to exposure help? How have you all dealt with exposure? Is it workable? |
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I listened to that episode and that same thing surprised me too. I think that absolutely yes, exposure to more exposure can help. I would caution you to start small though and see how you respond. Try a 2 pitch multi-pitch...see how that goes. Then bump up to 3, to 5, etc. The most I've done was a 15 pitch climb that had significant exposure throughout the majority of pitches and prior to that, the most I'd done was 5 pitches. While I found the exposure on that long one to be pretty scary, it fortunately didn't paralyze me with fear. If anything, it just heightened my senses and made me very deliberate with every move I made. I even took a fall on gear about 9 pitches up which in hindsight was good because the fall was exactly the same as falling on single pitch would be. At some point, idk maybe by the 7th or 8th pitch, the incremental exposure doesn't really matter much - you're already high up as heck and another couple hundred feet more each pitch doesn't result in things looking much different if you look down. What helped me when I was getting anxious on some very small ledge belays was to just focus on what was right in front me. I didn't look down, I didn't look behind me, I just looked straight ahead or down at my belay device as needed. At other points I could handle it and admire the view. I say all this with minimal experience doing climbs that are more than 5-6 pitches so hopefully others who have a lot more truly big climbs under their belt can chime in. |
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I grew up with a fear of heights. Looking out the window of a tall building or looking down the Hoover dam made me feel like gravity was changing and I was going to float right over the edge and crash to the ground. It turns out that my fear of heights is somehow tied more to man made heights than actual heights. I really enjoy good multi pitch exposure, my brain responds to those situations by sometimes making me feel really relaxed at exposed belays, almost sleepy. When it’s climb time the adrenaline kicks in and I’m ready to go. Occasionally really airy spots make me feel a bit “whoa man” but it’s always followed by a risk assessment. I often ask myself “is this a danger moment?” What I mean by that is, am actually in danger or is it just my brain having a hard time understanding my real risk. My wife/climbing partner has a fear of not being able to get down coupled with exposure. We have found that if I know the route and the way we are going to get down, then she can cope with exposure on route as long she is sure there is a way down. All of that said, I do most of my multi pitch with friends and enjoy cragging most of the time. It’s all about preference and what is the most fun for you. |
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Fear of exposure is exacerbated by fear of inadequacy in your ability to manage the climbing itself In other words, if you're already tilted by exposure, and you also fear you're not up to the task of the climbing, it makes that fear of exposure feeling much, much worse. Conversely, when you believe you are strong and you know you can do the moves and hang out for as long as necessary to do them, it makes it much easier, much easier! to manage that fear of exposure. Get strong, Work your technique. Pick multi-pitch objectives that are solidly within your comfort zone, for starter routes. |
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You just have to get out there and see how you handle it. If you’ve never climbed multi-pitch before, it should be a smooth learning curve because you’ll probably want to start on something well within your ability level. Like anything else in climbing, you gradually learn and adjust to new challenges and before you know it you’ll be comfortable on El Cap. Or maybe not, which is fine. Personally, I don’t think of myself as having any real fear of heights. I’m comfortable walking out to the edge of a cliff, or hanging from an anchor to take photos. I have succumbed to the fear of exposure on multi-pitch climbs when I’ve lost confidence in my ability, or the weather, or have gotten off route. It’s more of an emotional/psychological reaction to the accumulation of stress, than it is to heights. As soon as I begin to question whether I can get up (or down) the objective safely, shit begins to spiral and it can become difficult to reign the fear in. I would persuade you to put yourself into this type of situation, because you will learn something about yourself and it makes for a remarkable experience. It’s the kind of type 2 fun that makes climbing so enjoyable. |
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The first time I ever did a “big” route (east buttress middle cathedral yosemite), I had a few minutes of exposure panic. My partner (husband) said “don’t look down, look out”. It worked. The view of the Valley was so beautiful that I was able to let go of my fear and start to enjoy the perspective. Exposure is likely to be worse on steep routes with hanging belays instead of ledges. Those are not that common at moderate grades. I’m sure your partners can recommend routes to start on. I think fear of heights is distinct from exposure anxiety. I never had a fear of heights. |
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Some years back, my partner - on lead - reached a bolted belay at a downward-sloping ledge. We were mid-route on a 9 pitch 5.6 preceded by a 4 pitch gully we had simul’d. And we planned to take the long walk-off descent. After anchoring himself, he sort of froze for maybe 3 minutes before leaning back on the anchor. I don’t know why as we did not talk about it. But he did sometimes have a hard time fully trusting his weight to an anchor. Three minutes here and there can add up. We did not get back to camp until the wee hours of the next day. (for sure, I’ve had my frozen moments) ^^^Just a story to illustrating what others are saying about gradually easing up the level of commitment, gradually learning how much exposure you can tolerate under various circumstances. |
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Tons of great, bigger picture mental technique's here but one really simply physical thing you could try is making a ledge or seat of one kind or another whenever you've got a hanging or insecure belay. On a bigwall this could look like hanging the haulbag(s) right at foot level so you can actually stand on them. For single day routes you could improvise a chair or etriers with some slings or heck even bring a bosun's chair! At least for me it tricks the lizard brain into thinking that I'm standing on solid ground or sitting down, both positions that aren't as stressful. |
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I just did a few miltipitches myself so far, so still have this coping with exposure feeling fresh. Here are what helped:
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Sometimes, it can be hard to just figure out which way is up. Sometimes, it's not nearly as steep as you think. Other times, often after a few days on the wall, it's way steeper than it looks - looks like you might be able to unrope and walk it - nope. I don't take "up" as granted. I can't. I lost half my hearing/vestib thirty years ago and had to adjust to a new normal. Every now and then, I get overcome with frame of reference. Then again, I see others fall to the same. So, who knows? Another aspect would be what I call the "Michael Collins" effect. You're with someone else, maybe not in the immediate, but within the next pitch. But then, hey, congratulations, you guys are still on the other side of the moon, and far from home. When your mind takes in this Michael Collins perspective, that might be a tough recovery. This stuff can make you dizzy. |
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It’s those creepy downclimbs to a rap ledge that get to me. Maybe working on balance and getting used to the exposure gradually may help? Got to get that mental game… |
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Exposure is different than a fear of heights so yes. I think everybody goes through it here and there even as they continue to get more used to it. I would liken it to a fear of falling on lead, it’s a muscle you have to exercise and there’s nothing to supplement falling. From my experience everybody feels exposure differently so don’t put too much thought into it and just be kind to yourself. Being comfortable with the climbing helps a ton! Here’s my 2 cents from somebody that has worked through a lot of the fear (scared on exposed single pitch to comfortably climbing big walls) 1. Like others have said, climb two number grades below your max single pitch. Eventually this will even out but a good rule of thumb starting out. 3. EAT AND DRINK. I cannot stress this enough. If you think bonking on a hike is bad imagine being on a cliff 4. Plan enough time to get scared so you’re not worried. It’ll happen, but it’ll be rewarding in the end :) 5. Bring some music. In my experience having an earbud in on the most exposed pitch can be a lifesaver. When I’m doing the super scary aid pitch with a thousand feet beneath me you better bet I’m singing (screaming more likely) along to Taylor swift! Hope you have fun on your first multi pitch! Don’t forget to report back on how it goes. I’m sure somebody is lurking this thread that could use to hear it |
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For me, exposure while actively climbing is fun and exciting and hardly noticeable (like others have said, a fall 1000ft up is the same as 100ft), but on long days it can start getting to me at exposed, especially hanging, belays. Somewhere around pitch 8 I start looking at my bomber, 3-piece anchor, thinking how stupid this is, if I misjudged the rock quality or if I accidentally pull up on that nut or is that cam tipped out? we're both going to die. I stop having a good time. Having plenty of food and water helps. Having to rap on a couple marginal nuts because you got off route in the first half of the climb, doesn't help. Having diarrhea, even less so. Exposure isn't quite the same thing as fearing heights. Height is just one component of exposure. How much fun are you having? How big is the comfort zone margin? If you're out of your comfort zone, the amount of time / vertical mileage before you're back in it is a big factor. For example even an overhung 100ft single pitch that's at your limit and certain death if you deck from the top half, doesn't really feel like "exposure", though it could very well trigger someone's fear of heights, but if you're hours of climbing from warmth and food and water the reminder of the void beneath your feet really escalates those concerns and the fatigue that comes from them. Is it workable? You have to decide in the moment. Tom Randall decided to bail because it was an option. If he hadn't had that option, I'm sure he would've powered through. You just have to make the call in the moment, but need enough experience to make the right call. If you've got some trepidation, take it easy. Don't go for Royal Arches as your first. Go to Red Rocks and find some 2- or 3- pitch 5.7 with giant belay ledges. I just did Ride the Wind on Seraphim Wall with my dad for his first multipitch, it has king-size belays and just a few moments of true exposure, cushioned between totally secure and slabby cracks and patina. Great intro route. Or Bear's Reach in Tahoe on a near-freezing Tuesday morning to minimize the crowds, if you want to stay closer to home (assuming you're actually in Pacifica). |
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Baby steps, One can't just jump from one pitch sport routes to the 11 pitches of Astroman or the 750m Gervasutti-Gargliardone Route East Face of the Grandes Jorasses. If will be a nightmare and you'll bail.
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The best way to manage exposure, d**n this is cheesy, it to expose yourself to the experience. Climbing grades you are comfortable leading is a really good start, but the exposure is one of those things you don’t really know until you go. What I have found on the majority of multipitch climbs I have done is that you have sections of exposure followed by sections of ledges or nooks etc. fear is a real thing and everyone has a different tolerance for exposure. You have to find where yours is, and accept that it may increase over time or it may not. You’ll really not know until you try it. |
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Geeze. Somehow MP managed to squeeze in a bunch of wisdom about a topic in one page that usually gets diluted across many pages of otherwise acrimonious postings. :) |
giraud b wrote: I have never on sighted a 5.12b sport pitch, in fact I seldom climb sport pitches. I’m not sure what this has to do with exposure and multi-pitch. |
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Personally I have found paying attention to the exposure helpful; focusing on it and enjoying exposure on a multi pitch has made it completely casual. In climbing you gain exposure over a relatively slow period of time, pitch after pitch. There is also a logical aspect to the exposure gaining some level of safety. "I'm up so high I could take a 1/2 rope length whipper and be fine." (barring ledges). I think trying to ignore it, the "don't look down" tactic is a good way to have a freak out higher up on the route. Go do some easy multi-pitch climbing in a style that suits you (don't hop on to some low grade run out slab if that's not your strength). I think you'll find the exposure you gain when climbing ground up is pretty manageable, especially compared to suddenly walking to the edge of a large cliff (which freaks anyone out). |
Cory N wrote: It has nothing to do with the topic and is completely nonsensical, since probably at least 99% of current climbers who are very comfortable with alpine climbing and/or multipitch trad climbing do not climb 5.12. Probably Giraud’s weak idea of trolling… |
giraud b wrote: What percentage of the climbing population do you think can onsite 12b sport climbs? I love the humor in this, guess 90% of the mountain can go home. |
James M wrote: Yeah I'm surprised at all of the comments basically suggesting to suppress the fear. That's completely the opposite of how to actually deal with it. |
