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El Chorro beta from an EC resident

Original Post
richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

Flights: search on matrix.itasoftware.com for most flights and on skyscanner.com for flights within Europe and for budget airlines 

Malaga airport (AGP), is the closest to EC. If you originate outside of the EU, your luggage should appear in a separate room, not with the main luggage

Cars: no need for a car but use doyouspain.com for cheaper bookings than the car rental companies. In Spain, beware surcharges for insurance and for under 25 y.o. and over 69

You will need car for Desplomilandia and Poza. Those are almost always in shade

You can walk to almost all other crags in less than 45 minutes from the Olive Branch campground and the nearest crags are 4 minutes walk

Trains go frequently from airport to Malaga central station (called Maria Zambrano station). 

Then transfer to the train to El Chorro. at least 4 trains per day. You have to walk pretty far through the train station so just ask for info.

You can buy tickets  at the station or at renfe.com/es/en         

From the train station in El Chorro, you can walk up the very steep hill to the Olive Branch (1 mile) or Finca (a little over 1 mile)

Phone: If you need a SIM card, get Vodafone prepaid ("prepagado") for 28 days. You can call just about all of Europe, the USA, UK +  get 100 GB of data all for 15 euros/month + 5 for the SIM. Vodafone is the only carrier with good coverage in EC. There is a Vodafone store in the Zambrano train station

Accommodation: Olive Branch or Finca la Campana have various types of accom. Finca dorm is very noisy

For groups or long term stays, I might be able to help you find a place if others seem to be sold out. If you have a group, I have a house I rent for 300 per night for up to 7 people and 400 per night for up to 9. I discount that rate for climbers, at least 15% and sometimes up to 1/3 off. It is probably the most beautiful rental in the area

Wild camping in forest and elsewhere. Not legal but I have never seen it enforced. Van parking near the bridge, near Serena crag, many other places. Also possible on some of my properties for free. Message me for other locations

Read the listing details for room or apartment rentals and look at the photos. Many do not have heat or A/C and some are dumps (some of the dumps call themselves rustic!)

Food-Mercadona supermarket in Alora or in Zambrano train station. Carrefour in Malaga. Very little food is available in the tiny market in EC

Meals: the Olive Branch has daily meals, said to be excellent (I eat at my house). You must make a reservation.  Finca has pizza on some nights. Kiosko restaurant is said to be good but you need a car to get there. Garganta hotel has meals. Many other restaurants and cafes are in Alora

Climbing and other gear: Aventur El Chorro or some gear at Decathlon in Malaga. Ropes and gear are often cheap in Spain

Drinking water: the public taps are usually safe and local tap water is treated but tastes disgusting. You can get free water from my spring, not far from the Olive Branch. 

The weather here can change quickly and can be very hot in summer and cold in winter

Best is at least a 70  meter rope. 18 draws is usually sufficient but some routes are over 40 meters and a few require 20 draws or so.

EC is for sport climbing. There is minimal bouldering and almost no one does the few trad climbs here

The big tourist attraction in EC is the Caminito del Rey. Book tickets online but they usually sell out far in advance. You can go to the entrance and try standby in the early morning. 

There is a free hiking route above it, too

To access the gorge climbs, you can hike over the mountain but many climbers go via the train tunnels (that is illegal but I never heard of any enforcement)

Driving in the forest is also illegal but also there I never heard of enforcement

Other activities: bike ride; horse riding; hiking

Via ferrata: park in the forest near the start. Crazy busy on weekends and holidays. Rent gear at the Finca la Campana. Check about maintenance problems and closures. You are relying on Spanish construction and safety! Caveat emptor. I have heard it takes about 2 1/2 hours

Climbing guide book: the best is teh guide created by the owner of Finca. There is also a very good topo, much cheaper but lots less info

There are several licensed climbing guides. If you want one for multipitch or via ferrata or just for any level of instruction, from beginner to advanced, message me and I will send you some contacts for them. 

Grades in EC are very soft here compared to US grades. About 4-5 grades softer than Gunks, at least up to 6c+.  

I frequently need climbing partners. Up to 6b+ or sometimes 6c+. Message me if you want a partner or if I can join your group. I am happy to show climbers around the crags here.

Mingming Y · · Netherlands · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 3,042

Super helpful information   

Lucas Barth · · Moab, UT · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 449

Thanks for the info! All very helpful. I will be in El Chorro in January. We were planning on buying a rope there at Decathlon either in Madrid or Malaga. Do you know if it's possible to order it ahead of time and pick it up in the store? Or any other beta for buying a rope there?

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

I don't know. Maybe call the store in Malaga and ask. that store is near the airport so it is convenient if you are flying in

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
Lucas Barth wrote:

Or any other beta for buying a rope there?

Madrid ----> Barrabes:

https://m.barrabes.com/material-escalada?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuIKet-_jggMVf9gWBR3ZngIrEAMYASAAEgI1nPD_BwE


Two stores in the city. Location. Go to the drop menu and scroll down to "tiendas Barrabes."

Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,436

This is awesome! I'm headed there around the holidays, van looping from Malaga -> EC -> Seville -> Cadiz - -> Gibraltar -> Malaga with a partner who only barely tolerates climbing but does seem to enjoy via ferrata and nice views.

For other activities, are there any major regional must-dos or more adventurous/ less touristy sights that'd be group friendly?

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

wind sports in Tarifa

lots of major hiking trails all over. hike to the top of mt Huma right here in EC. 1150 meters ASL

the big tourist attractions are Alhamabra in Granada, Mezquita in Cordoba and the caminito del rey in EC

PM me if you need a climbing partner

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

Hiking Sierra Nevada/Mulhacen with or without snow it doesn't matter. Start from Capileira mountain village.

https://brainybackpackers.com/spain-mulhacen-hike/

In 1996 I rode my MTB all the way to the summit with an epic descent riding nearly at a speed of 100km/h in a couple of sections of the descent. I'll never forget that. 

Greg JJ · · London, UK · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

Hi, thank you for the info.

Just a quick question re. food, resta, shop.

Does the little shop have bread, tinned food?

Is there any fast food, pizza, small reta ?

I mean walking distance in El Chorro :)

Thx,

Greg.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

While I haven't been there in a few years, and things do seem to change from year to year, El Chorro is a very small town with somewhat limited choices ( though more now that the Camino is so busy). The store in town is small, but did have a supply of 'the basics'. We would travel--usually by train--to Alora or other nearby towns with larger supermarkets for our 'stock-ups'.

As for fast food. There is a cafe at the train station that is popular. I also recall a small bar/ restaurant a short way further down the hill that we would stop in sometimes for an 'apres climb' snack and 'hydration'. There is also a nice restaurant in the hotel in the center of the village that is definitely on the fancier side and, if I recall correctly, is only open for dinner. We have also eaten in a couple of other restaurants in the vicinity, though they were longer walks, or short drives, from town. I'm guessing that there are still more choices now.

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

No idea what Mirabel carries in her shop. I never go there. But others say she hardly has anything. I go to Mercadona in Alora. Great supermarket.

As noted in my post, Garganta hotel has a restaurant. Never ate there. Not great reputation but I cannot say yea or nay

Station bar is said to have good sandwiches but not good beer. OB sells beer, wine and snacks in addition to their full meals, which are said to be excellent, even by my friends who have money and eat in very nice restaurants elsewhere

Some kiosks at the exit from the caminito now sell ice cream, beer and other stuff. Again, I never buy there so I cannot advise

So, not much in walking distance of EC other than what is in my post. If you want restaurants etc, go to Alora. Many options there.

Doug Gwilliam · · Eagle Mountain, UT · Joined Apr 2024 · Points: 0

I would like to take the train from Maria Zambrano train station to El Chorro for EC hike.  Do I need to purchase train tickets in advance?  Do they sell out, or can I just buy them at the station same day?

Thank you!

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

You have to buy before you get on the train but you can do that online or at the station. I have never seen a sold out train

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

Right off from the train station which I have done when I was a Spanish resident. Countless tickets purchased that way from train and bus stations. Unless you travel from Madrid to Barna (Barcelona) for example then you need to purchase tickets in advance. 

Tim K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2024 · Points: 0

Hi Richard, we're arriving tonight from UK. 

Thank you for this helpful orientation!

I was curious about your water spring -- is this something that is publicly accessible?

Thanks, Tim & Angela

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

yes, the villagers and climbers get water from there all of the time. I own the land and the physical spring but by Spanish law, the water belongs to the public.

it is here:

  google.com/maps/place/36%C2…;31.5%22N+4%C2%B045'22.8%22W/@36.9087421,-4.7569887,176m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m15!1m10!3m9!1s0xd72be4bc379ce2f:0x1bca643f14ddd657!2sThe+Olive+Branch+El+Chorro!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d36.9070007!4d-4.7519526!16s%2Fg%2F1th64qts!3m3!8m2!3d36.908741!4d-4.756345?entry=ttu

Luci D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2024 · Points: 0

This information is very helpful! Thank you!

We will be staying at Valle de abdalajis for about a month (late jan - feb). Do you know how accessible this would be to the climbs at el chorro (I.e is it walking distance)?

We are considering exploring the crags in walking distance from valle de abdalajis first and then renting a car in the middle of our stay to further explore el chorro / further crags. Do you think this is practical? Or should we just rent a car coming out of the airport?

Thanks!

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

IMO not practical. It is about 5 miles/8 km from Valle to the nearest EC (El chorro) crags and a couple more miles to the other crags.

Best to either rent a place in EC or rent a car. Doyouspain has very low rates. I will rent a car tomorrow for $6/day and I have rented for less (and for more!)

I will PM you with other info

Luci D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2024 · Points: 0
richard aiken wrote:

IMO not practical. It is about 5 miles/8 km from Valle to the nearest EC (El chorro) crags and a couple more miles to the other crags.

Best to either rent a place in EC or rent a car. Doyouspain has very low rates. I will rent a car tomorrow for $6/day and I have rented for less (and for more!)

I will PM you with other info

Thanks so much Richard! Will respond to your PM

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,349

I'm struggling a bit to identify exactly where the spring is based on that link.  Near as I can get is the photo below:

Is it in the picture/if one navigates to this road, does it become self evident?

Also curious if it's possible to buy the guidebook in town? (I assume so, but if not, will order one)  Thanks for posting all the beta and answering questions!

richard aiken · · El Chorro Spain · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 20

here is another view: https://www.google.com/maps/@36.9085659,-4.7559347,121m/data=!3m1!1e3?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTIxMS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D It is there but only shows as a thin line since it is an aerial view

the spring is on the lower of the two roads just before it ends at the trees. anyway, once you are here, just ask anyone. the villagers and many climbers use it

A new guidebook came out just last year. Put out by Juan Hofer who owns the Finca la Campana and has been living here for decades, he created that guidebook. you can  buy it at the Finca and elsewhere too but if  you buy it at the Finca, Juan will get all of the money instead of having to pay a sales commission to someone else. He bolted a lot of routes here and paid for the gear and IMO deserves whatever he earns. His guidebook is by far the best one, also much better than the various apps and websites. His is the most complete and accurate because he actually knows the routes

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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