Ice Climbing Pack

I am in need of a second pack for ice climbing. My primary pack which is a north face phantom 38 went in for repairs and they are quoting me 6-8 weeks turnaround. I was looking at arcteryx fl30 and sl23. I want something that is smaller and could fill a different role rather than duplicating what I have. More of an ice day pack. My question is people’s experience with either pack for ice climbing. Also is the sl23 too small to be practical. 

I really like my BD speed zip 24 pack for ice days.  It’s just big enough to fit everything I need for a day out.  I’m not familiar with the SL 23 pack, but I would guess the speed zip has most of the same features for far less $$$:

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/speed-zip-24/?colorid=10855

Cold Cold World Valdez  is the best 

I've been using the MH alpine light 28 for full ice days in VT. Can fit all layers, food and gear with helmet, pons, tools, ropes outside. A little tight and needs to pack kinda perfectly, but then cinches down well without the gear to climb just fine climbing up and over. I don't have experience with the packs you're looking at but for me, 23 would be too tight for a cold day and 30 would work well to not have another 40L pack. 

That TNF Phantom 38 looks like a really nice pack. If you want to add to your quiver there's a couple ways to go.

20ish liter pack for multi-pitch ice. Holds puffy, gloves, thermos and snacks. In this size you don't need to total compress the puffy to get it in the pack. You also want removable waist belt and back padding. You don't really need them on a climb. A light denier material is great and not many bells ad whistles so you can stuff it into your 38L on approach.
Something like a Bd Blitz 20 as an example.

30ish liter pack for alpine ice. Approach to the base, climb route and descend a different way. Properly stuffed can hold 1/2 of everything. Your partner has the other half. Removable waist belt is recommended for climbing.
Something like a BD Speed Zip 33 as an example.

Mystery Ranch Scepter. Love mine. It's really well built and carries great

Can't speak to other brands, but as to size, FWIW, I have both the FL30 and FL40.  I expected to use the 30 for ice day trips, but in reality I always reach for the 40.  But then, I seem to be the guy that's always carrying the first aid kit, belay parka, extra food, and piles of gloves and mittens.  I climb mostly in the Alberta Rockies and nearby areas, often in quite remote areas, so I see warm gear as survival items, not luxuries.  Even if I could comfortably fit all my stuff in the 30, I probably wouldn't.  The 40 is almost as light, but gives more margin for error and ease of slam-packing (jam-packing? cram-packing? you know what I mean).  No noticeable difference in feel between the two when climbing, all other things like contents being equal.  The 30 is now reserved for summer trips, when puffy gear isn't in the mix.

Perhaps I'm doing the goldfish thing (filling up the allotted space just because it's there) but I really don't think so, and I'm okay with it if I am.

The black diamond blitz is really great. I put a 2005 giant Patagonia down jacket in it, beef and nuts food, a larger water bladder (that popped...), extra gloves, sometimes two pairs. Headlamp, etc. It climbs really really well. 

I suspect the CCW Ozone feels similar, but beefier with actual padding in the shoulder straps and stiffer foam in the pack to become more supportive of loads. You can ask Randy to add provisions for tool storage outside the pack - he will add features.

Of course the CCW Valdez is rad. I never had one (always had Wild Things) but my friends did. 

I have started using the blue ice warthog 40 and it has been sweet. Its pretty lightweight but burly enough and carries well. You call also strip it down and make it lighter. 

I've got an Arc'teryx Alpha FL 30 I'd sell. I bought it 3 years ago and its got little use. 10/10 condition; like-new condition.

AlpineIce wrote:

I've got an Arc'teryx Alpha FL 30 I'd sell. I bought it 3 years ago and its got little use. 10/10 condition; like-new condition.

I’ll buy it.

Koy wrote:

I really like my BD speed zip 24 pack for ice days.  It’s just big enough to fit everything I need for a day out.  I’m not familiar with the SL 23 pack, but I would guess the speed zip has most of the same features for far less $$$:

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/speed-zip-24/?colorid=10855

This. The BD speed series is may only be matched by the MH scramblers IMHO. 

rocknice2 wrote:

That TNF Phantom 38 looks like a really nice pack. If you want to add to your quiver there's a couple ways to go.

20ish liter pack for multi-pitch ice. Holds puffy, gloves, thermos and snacks. In this size you don't need to total compress the puffy to get it in the pack. You also want removable waist belt and back padding. You don't really need them on a climb. A light denier material is great and not many bells ad whistles so you can stuff it into your 38L on approach.
Something like a Bd Blitz 20 as an example.

30ish liter pack for alpine ice. Approach to the base, climb route and descend a different way. Properly stuffed can hold 1/2 of everything. Your partner has the other half. Removable waist belt is recommended for climbing.
Something like a BD Speed Zip 33 as an example.

This is a good breakdown. I’ve found the blue ice dragonfly to not be very durable (although its quite cute), and I know probably 5 people who had similar complaints about the BD blitz. Whatever they make those arcteryx bags out of is great though, I’ve gotten one pinhole in my alpha fl 40 in several years of heavy use. I have two of the newer mountain hardwear bags that have held up pretty good as well but I’ve only had them a year and a half.

Exped Black Ice 30 is the answer / Whiteout 30 if you have money to burn.
For ice, I also liked and used the BD Cirque 35 and the BD Speed zip 33.

A silnylon travel pack, tucks down to the size of my thumb and is about 15L; great for multipitch ice when the approach is long.

https://seatosummit.com/products/ultra-sil-day-pack

G7 Haul Pack if I want to climb really free and tag it up after. 

+1 for Cold Cold World 

if you don’t want to wait and can’t find a used one. The BD speed series is a great off the self pack.

Savage Mountain Gear May be able to make a pack that fits the bill also. Jackpot is too big for your request and the Payday is more “rock” oriented. 

Looooove the Hyperlite Prism

In the last several years I've gone on all kinds of expeditions from Patagonia to Himalayas and always used the hyperlite ice pack. Also, noticed majority of people who know what they are doing and aren't sponsored by a brand that makes packs, usually choose hyperlite over the other brands. On my last expedition, all three of us used hyperlite, but different models. I love that they are waterproof, durable, light, fits well and have gear loops on the hip belt. So if you are leading or following with a pack, like on a long multipitch, you can clip your gear on a more accessible part. 

You can also sleep in it 50M below the summit of Cerro Torre. Works like a charm. :)

Blue Ice Dragon fly 18L, Mutant 22. 

SirTobyThe3rd M wrote:

In the last several years I've gone on all kinds of expeditions from Patagonia to Himalayas and always used the hyperlite ice pack. Also, noticed majority of people who know what they are doing and aren't sponsored by a brand that makes packs, usually choose hyperlite over the other brands. On my last expedition, all three of us used hyperlite, but different models. I love that they are waterproof, durable, light, fits well and have gear loops on the hip belt. So if you are leading or following with a pack, like on a long multipitch, you can clip your gear on a more accessible part. 

You can also sleep in it 50M below the summit of Cerro Torre. Works like a charm. :)

that looks...comfortable....

can't say i've seen boots being used as a pillow before...

I have the mystery ranch scepter 52 and it’s great. Comfy and very sturdy!