Scapholunate dissociation/instability SUCCESS story WITHOUT surgery

I wanted to share my success story regarding my SL issue, despite countless people insisting that surgery was the only solution.

In the winter of 2023, while indoor bouldering, I grabbed onto a large sloper and sensed something off in my wrist. After a night of tingling pain, I visited the ER, where an X-ray revealed no issues, with the doctor suggesting it was likely just soreness. Realizing a regular doctor might not understand the intricacies of climbing, I turned to my climbing chiropractor/PT, who had successfully treated my previous injuries. They diagnosed me with SL dissociation/instability and provided exercises involving ball sloper grabs to strengthen my wrist. In a few months, the issue healed.

However, in September 2023, the injury resurfaced due to an awkward twisting undercling. Despite severe discomfort, I continued climbing for a month to complete my projects before the season ended. By October, I could barely lift a pot, and the injury was confirmed as SL dissociation again, marked by a positive dart throwing motion. Researching the options, I found grim stories of attempted surgeries resulting in loss of range of motion. Refusing surgery, I consulted multiple climbing specialists (3), all confirming the issue and advising against surgery, however, all research suggests the extreme opposite, to engage in therapy as the only option. 

Frustrated with the exercises given, I delved into my own research, purchasing books like Climb Injury Free, One Too Many, and exploring forums and articles. I maintained a consistent routine, combining taping, mobilization, flexing, and strengthening exercises. Although not fully recovered, I've made remarkable progress, reaching about 75% from what felt like -50% (compared to my first SL injury). My strength has returned, I've adjusted my climbing style, and I can now pick things up with minimal pain.

The takeaway is that while climbing is rapidly evolving, the medical field's knowledge and adaptability remain stagnant. It's crucial to seek out climbing-specialized PTs/Chiros rather than conventional practitioners. Even certified hand doctors might not fully grasp the nuances of climbing injuries. Trust your instincts and body, as climbing-specialized doctors comprehend these issues better than anyone else. Bascially ALL conventional practitioners will tell you that surgery is the only option. 

So what does my rehab look like? Without diving into too much detail (lazy), it included the following:

Flexibility: Engage in slow wrist flexion in all directions to promote movement.

Immobilization: Tape the wrist tightly at 75% throughout the day, not just during climbing. This minimizes the risk of accidental impacts and ensures proper load distribution. Leave the tape on during the night for added protection, but remove it during sloper and ball rehab exercises to engage all bones and ligaments. During climbing, use both tape and a wrist widget for additional support.

Nutrition: Improve your diet for overall health. Prioritize nutrient-rich foods to support healing.

Endurance based exercises: I read somewhere online that this guy miraculously healed his SL injury by giving up and just turning to endurance based sports such as mountaineering or something? Meaning it was heavy breathing type shit where blood was always pumping throughout his whole body. He believes that increased bloodflow was the key to success in his recovery. I incorproated 1 hour hard stairmasters everysingle day for the past month, and not only does it increase blood flow to my arms, but it also helps me trian for the hard apporaches!!

Positive thinking: Embrace a positive mindset for both climbing and injury recovery. Consider reading books on mastering the mental aspect of climbing, such as "Mastermind for Climbing" or "The Rock Warrior's Way." Positive thinking can positively impact the healing process, as your body responds to your mental state.

Roll it out: Get a foam roller or a percussion device. Apply it to the forearm as much as you can. Release the tension. Forearm muscles and wrist are all connected. 

Best of luck, and take breaks if your forearms start to ache from typing!