Mount Lemmon Area in March

Hello! I'm traveling to Tucson next March and looking for some beta on which areas would be best for that time of year. I know there's some raptor closure potential, but I have no idea about the normal weather condies, shade & sun, approaches, etc. Any info from locals would be greatly appreciated! Looking for easy trad (up to 5.8/9) and/or moderate sport (up to 5.11+). No real preference on single or multipitch, just looking for high stars! Also, would it be worth going to Cochise while we're in the area?

Any info helps, thanks!

Aaron

Hi Aaron, Lemmon can be overwhelming. No in place raptor closures, general practice is to leave if you're disturbing the wildlife (the birds will let you know if you are). Use the route finder feature on MP and follow the stars. Some very very general tips:

1. climbing generally gets better the higher you go on the mountain, think windy point and higher

2. protection on trad routes can be trickier here than other areas, many folks climb w/ totems and offset nuts. you can make due without though. In general it's not the best area to push grades on gear initially.

3.  Very roughly, if it's low 70s and below in Tucson, climb Windy Point or lower. If it's below 60s lower highway is most comfortable. This depends heavily on whether you chase wind/sun/shade, your tolerance etc.

4. Approaches are generally short, so if you're uncomfortable, just go higher or lower.

Absolutely check out Cochise, consider the Farmhouse as well if you want to sample the local limestone. Milagrosa canyon is another good cool weather option.

prison camp

Another thing to note...The climbs are very run out in AZ. I’ve never seen anything like it. 

Ben G wrote:

Another thing to note...The climbs are very run out in AZ. I’ve never seen anything like it. 

Where else have you climbed? 

Adam R wrote:

Where else have you climbed? 

Oregon, Texas, Colorado

Jon.R wrote:

3.  Very roughly, if it's low 70s and below in Tucson, climb Windy Point or lower. If it's below 60s lower highway is most comfortable. This depends heavily on whether you chase wind/sun/shade, your tolerance etc.

Climbing at higher elevation than the locals can be an ok way for out of towners to avoid crowds.  Sunny, 40s (at the crag not in Tucson ) and no wind can be pretty sweet at Mt Lemmon.   I am only half serious and definitely half joking. This temp guidance is right on, but one arriving from a colder area can find comfort where warmer area people don’t. 

I was climbing at Barnum rock at 7500' when it was 30* in the alpine glow and was v comfy so it's no joke. I'm a wimp for the cold too. Don't tell anyone though.