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giant snagless oval biners for racking nuts?
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Been using & carrying more & more nuts lately -- going nuts for nuts. I didn't really notice it before, but the bail-gear biners I've been using to date mostly aren't great for this. I also added some bigger nut sets (x14) that don't fit so good on a single small biner. Even with my 10x nut sets, it seems like bigger biners are easier to futz with. Anybody have any favorites that that they'd recommend, in this direction? I guess snagless ovals w/ solid gates would be the way to go, but I haven't really tried many other options. Mostly thinking non-lockers -- although Edelrid's Kiwi medium oval comes in an auto slide-lock version that's super easy to open & close, one-handed. I just wish they made a bigger version. Also entertaining unconventional ideas, if you happen to have some bizarre nut-racking scheme that works like black magic. |
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I personally prefer oval carabiners with a large notch for this purpose. When using other friends' racks, I've dropped nuts off the carabiner because of the snag-free nose. I also split my nuts up based on size or shape. Offsets get their own carabiner. Same goes for the normal sized nuts. I don't bring nuts bigger than 0.5 C4 unless I want more bail options or I expect to encounter wet/icy rock, but those get their own carabiner, too. Just go to a used gear store and poke around to find an oval carabiner you like. |
Adam Fleming wrote: Funny timing -- a friend just made the exact same point to me, in recommending this guy: https://weighmyrack.com/IceAccessory/grivel-carryabinner Neither oval nor snagless nor solid gate -- but allegedly designed for racking a bunch of bulky pieces, so maybe Grivel knows something I don't? |
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You probably don't want snagless. Like others have mentioned the nuts tend to go flying off. I use a big wire gate oval, one for small nuts and one for large and a 3rd just for blue offsets and pink tricams. |
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The DMM WallDo is my go-to for nuts. It's got a large notch (i.e distinctly not what you asked for), but as everyone else has said, that's actually a feature for me, not a bug. |
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Hmm, what do people think about using a pouch, and marking the loops so you can identify the sizes from the end? Something like Scott's small pouch for hooks and beaks. It'd definitely make my rack more organized. |
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This is what I use: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/oval-keylock-3-pack/ |
Ryan Lynch wrote: It's intended to be attached to the waist of your harness to rack ice screws on. Most ice climbers use plastic ones, but these have the benefit of also being a full-strength biner. The plastic ones break pretty regularly and all your screws get lost in the snow. Honestly looks like it would make a great racking biner for a set of big nuts. 5-7 std nuts or a set of RPs fit on an oval just fine. BD used to make keylock ovals just a few years ago so they are probably not too hard to find. I sold mine because I kept dropping nuts but otherwise great biner with good gate action despite being BD. |
Rasputin NLN wrote: Having performed this exact Muppet routine myself, I want it noted that most plastics get more stiff/brittle as temps get colder, and are more likely to break. Bork bork bork. Maybe the secret power move is to rack those Grivel monstrosities in cold weather -- and then switch to plastic Karry Krabs in warmer conditions? |
Ryan Lynch wrote: You (almost definitely) don’t want to rack your nuts on a carabiner attached to your harness. You want to be able to remove the whole set and its carabiner, shuffle through it until you find the nut you need, and then put the rest back in place. I like the Walldo for nuts, but lots of other things work fine. It might be easier to split large sets of nuts into 2 or 3 smaller bunches on separate carabiners, rather than putting 15 nuts in one cluster. |
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I like to use clean nose offset D shape carabiner and put small-medium stoppers, large stoppers, and offsets each on their own carabiner. Makes finding ones you need much quicker and plus you can leave ones you don't need off your rack. I've found I really don't like ovals for racking stoppers mainly because since they are symmetrical in design, it's harder to see which side of the gate is the part that opens up when you are removing the stopper after placing whereas you never have that issue with an offset D. I've seen some climbers that rack their entire selection of nuts on one oval and that method is such a cluster. It's much harder to find the ones you need that way since it's just a big mess of metal. Also I've seen several videos of climbers who use this method almost lose a lot of stoppers several times. When removing one, since you have so many on one carabiner, they tend to bunch up on each other. If they all bunch up near the gate and you try to remove one they can all easily fall out. |
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This one: https://madrock.com/products/oval-tech |
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Going against the grain. I use DMM alpha trad or WC helium for everything including this. Totally confused why I would want snagging. Cuz I don’t. Take rack of aluminum offsets. Grab nut I want to place, give a shake, the others fall down on the biner. Place nut. Remove with no snag. Why is this not better? I’m not interested in climbing el cap, and I place far more cams than nuts. But I like this system and don’t want an oval anywhere near me…. |
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Grivel walldo in hot pink is the only way to go. |
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Basic oval wiregate BD. Tried snagless, offset D, wildcountry helium, etc, but I came back to the classic for a reason. |
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I did a bunchhhh of searching for exactly this. I use this for racking - personally I love it: https://www.camp.it/m/us/us/outdoor/product/1801
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Chris Outings wrote: Sweet -- I love these two! Gonna try to find them. I'm undecided about notches, but I suspect there may be some personal bias from what each person grows accustomed to, like gates in vs gates out. So on a related note, I want to thank you for listening to what I actually had to say, and taking me at my word. It's funny, but I've noticed when I ask for suggestions on forums like this one, I usually get a bunch of guys making suggestions that obviously don't meet my stated criteria, but reflect the other guy's personal needs. These kinds of suggestions are often accompanied by an admonition that my stated needs must be invalid, because they differ from how the other guy does things -- which absolutely must be The Only Right Way to do the thing. It happens on climbing forums, hiking forums, cooking forums, car forums, pet forums, ice skating forums... Pretty much everywhere there's a forum, it's full of guys who can't be bothered to listen to what I'm actually asking for -- because they're related just looking for a window to talk about themselves. And they don't really care what I need -- they have their own needs for attention that they want to get met. Thank you for not being one of those guys, and instead giving me the suggestions that I actually did ask for... And you killed it! |
Ryan Lynch wrote: I thank many people are genuinely trying to be kind and helpful, and simply pointing out a relevant consideration or perspective that they think might be missing from the conversation. |
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Another vote for the DMM WallDo. I got 2 and split up my set between them |
Ryan Lynch wrote: great job shitting on the people more experienced than you trying to offer some advice. |
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You could also get a job and just use cams… |
