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Beta/route & crag info @ Mount Lemmon

Original Post
tallboy TL · · Denver · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Heading to Mount Lemmon in December for a week of cragging.  I bought the Mount Lemmon III guide book which is a bit thick and daunting, but certainly will get used.

But wondering if anyone can share some recommendations for some fun crags/routes down there, well bolted, not too scary, in the 5.10'ish range.  We've never climbed down there before but seems like a great place to climb when the weather up north is chilly!  I'll certainly search here on MP too, but any local knowledge is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,592
John Maclean · · north providence, RI · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 55

For December I would check out the following: The Ruins, Flying Scorpions, Train Station (mountain project, it's not in the guidebook) I think you will enjoy your week there I really like it there myself. Finding some of the crags can be tricky, don't bushwack low on the mountain if you can help it.

tallboy TL · · Denver · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks so much John!  

Nick Henscheid · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 625

You can definitely do better than Flying Scorpions and Train Station if you only have a week.  Those crags have lots of one and two star climbs and the rock quality is mediocre.   The Ruins is great, full sun all day so look for temps in the 60s in Tucson.  Also check out Forgotten Wall, similar temps and aspect to Ruins.  Windy Point is in season pretty much all year (you can chase sun if it's cold) but it's maybe a bit old school in nature depending on what that means for you.  Milagrosa is also a great winter crag (not in book, see MP).   You might also consider spending a day out at The Farmhouse or Sweet Rock/Isle of You at Cochise Stronghold.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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