Boots for Winter Mountaineering in the Sierras

Hey everyone! I'm looking for recommendations for boots for winter mountaineering in the sierras. I got frostbite on the Whitney Mountaineer's route in early February while wearing the Scarpa Charmoz (to be fair, not a very warm boot) and I clearly need to upgrade. For reference, my extremities run especially cold in general.

I'm debating between double or 1.5 boots (i.e. LS G2 vs G5). I'm sure the topic of boots has been beat to death in this forum, but I would appreciate advice from anyone with experience in this range and/or problems with poor circulation. Thanks!

How much overnighting are you going to do? If it’s little or none, a good single should be fine (unless you got a substantial cold injury—that’s going to open you up to more sensitivity in the future). If lots of overnights, a light double is really nice to have and gives good margin. 

I've been really happy with my Mammut Nordwand 6000 High.  

It's a double boot, but it's pretty light and agile, and is quite comfortable on the approach and descent.  Probably warmer than most folks would need for single day routes, but if your feet get cold easily, it's better to be a bit warmer than needed than not quite warm enough.  

https://www.mammut.com/us/en/products/3010-01061-00520/nordwand-6000-high

The real answer here is for winter Sierra climbing you want skis. So you should be considering a warm touring boot rather than mountaineering boot

Thanks for the feedback! I'm pretty incompetent when it comes to skiing, but hopefully one day.

I will primarily be doing overnight missions. Is the primary advantage of a double boot the added insulation or the ability to dry the booties in your sleeping bag (or something else)?

I’m hoping the Nepal EVO GTX are good enough for this?

Kevin Mauge wrote:

Thanks for the feedback! I'm pretty incompetent when it comes to skiing, but hopefully one day.

I will primarily be doing overnight missions. Is the primary advantage of a double boot the added insulation or the ability to dry the booties in your sleeping bag (or something else)?

Moisture control is the biggest thing. Also just added margin for safety helps.

I second the mammut doubles. I have the lighter weight, older norwand 2.1 and it’s honestly a great boot. It is what I take on winter overnights in the Sierra and Shasta. I think the 6k is awesome as well, but I think neither is a true high altitude boot for most people. However, they walk and climb very well and have a shape that I think works better for many folks, including me.

Edit: I should also add—the fifth season had the norwand 6000 in stock last time I was up there. I know it’s quite the trek from SB to Shasta, but it would be a chance to actually see if it works for you before buying in the instance you’re up north. And it helps support one of the last mountaineering shops around. 

You can carry down booties/slippers and your system will be more versatile than just a double boot. Plus it gives you more opportunity to dry off your mountain boots. They pack down really small too. Combined with something like the phantom tech or g5 and weight savings are legit, you won’t lose your toes and you will have a technical boot for climbing and walking. Bring a double boot for something in the canadian rockies or alaska in winter, in the rockies and sierras it may be overkill if you don’t go on the coldest week of the year, you don’t want to be walking on a warm winter day in double boots, you will be swimming in your socks. I wear lightweight wool socks in single boots in all conditions for ice climbing and in ski boots (been below -50 and no frostbite). Nepal cubes are the standard for rangers, scarpa mt blanc is scarpa’s take on stiff leather boots, and the g5 and phantom tech is the gaited lightweight version for technical ice. 

I don't get out that much, but my approach: use some random old single leather boots and wait for good weather.

As a result of this thread:
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123287261/heated-socks-for-arctic-temps

I bought Lenz electric socks, which have been great for Canada and the occasional cold day in the Sierra. They are expensive, but have been worth every penny!

Li Hu wrote:

I’m hoping the Nepal EVO GTX are good enough for this?

You'll be fine 99% of the time.

Kevin Mauge wrote:

Thanks for the feedback! I'm pretty incompetent when it comes to skiing, but hopefully one day.

I will primarily be doing overnight missions. Is the primary advantage of a double boot the added insulation or the ability to dry the booties in your sleeping bag (or something else)?

If you can't ski how are you getting around in deep winter snow? In my experience there are two types of winter climbers... those who learn to ski and those who quit because it's a ridiculous PITA.

Sam Bedell wrote:

If you can't ski how are you getting around in deep winter snow? In my experience there are two types of winter climbers... those who learn to ski and those who quit because it's a ridiculous PITA.

It’s a choice between snowshoes that sink severely or skis where 10 pounds of snow stick to your skins   

Li Hu wrote:

It’s a choice between snowshoes that sink severely or skis where 10 pounds of snow stick to your skins   

Yet, there are things one can do to limit the snow buildup on skins. Snowshoes just flat out suck.

Sam Bedell wrote:

You'll be fine 99% of the time.

Thanks, … planning a couple trips up there this Winter.

Sam Bedell wrote:

If you can't ski how are you getting around in deep winter snow? In my experience there are two types of winter climbers... those who learn to ski and those who quit because it's a ridiculous PITA.

Yeah, been slogging around in snowshoes until now, I can definitely see the motivation to pick up some skis.

I have been doing winter mountaineering in the Sierras for a few years. I started out with Trango Tower Extreme GTX's and they worked great for my applications. Recently got G5s and I  love them for ice climbing but they are overkill for the loads of scree scrambling that goes on even in winter.

To echo what others said, I was on foot with snowshoes and its honestly the fucking worst. The approaches are generally just all too long. This season I upgraded to a skimo setup and I cant wait.  if I need my technical boots I will carry them on my back. I have a few objectives in mind where I will even just ice climb in my ski boots.

Even doing french fries and pizzas down the mountain is faster than going down in snowshoes haha.