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Unconventional Boulder problems/Challenge routes

Original Post
Andrew Child · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,552

Sometimes an area will have a listed boulder problem that doesn't follow conventionally accepted rules for what a route "should" be, but is none the less a fun challenge that can still be graded on the V Scale. Examples of this that I know of are Portable in Squamish and The Stand in Stone Fort. You might also argue that no hands slabs (of which there are many) also fall into this category. Does anyone know of other examples of these kinds of problems?

Bonus question: Could natural lifting stones such as the Utah stones of strength be lumped into this category too? If an established bouldering area has a known lifting stone should that be documented here or in guidebooks?

Andrew Child · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,552

Starting a categorized list of these types of climbs, I will update this as stuff gets added to the thread:

Pick up a rock:

Climb Through Something:

Jump off of Something:

Establishing is the Route:

Normal Rules, Goofy Beta:

No Hands Slabs (select examples):

Meme Routes:

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

--The Womb at the Buttermilks comes to mind

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107052779/the-womb-birthing-experience

--Another category of weird novelty problems are those where you jump from one boulder to another. Such as Slam Dunk in JTree.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112365563/slam-dunk

--No hands slabs definitely fit this category.

--I like the idea of incorporating natural lifting stones into bouldering areas. It would be interesting if they were noted in the guidebook. Probably shouldn't try to give them a V grade though...

Woolly Mammut · · Riverside, CA · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 3,369

Chouinards Hole is an interesting one at Stoney Point. A hard mantel into the hole and then ya just sit there. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/112547662/chouinards-hole

Klein VerHill · · Pittsburgh PA & northern India · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 2,473

Here is a fun one from Coopers Rocks

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117928462/spiderwoman-problem

Jordan Wilson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 65

Jabbwerwock in Moes Valley. You topout through a hole feet first. Unless you got big shoulders then you just get stuck. But not really a topout and quite unconventional. 

Erik Misiak · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 115

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/120980486/tick-the-brick

Unfortunately the brick has been ticked too many times and is now split.

Duncan Domingue · · Nederland, CO (from Louisiana) · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106036681/pancake-mantle

Pancake Mantle (V2) in Stone Fort, Tennessee.

The grade absolutely does not reflect the amount of entertainment you'll get trying this problem, and watching other people try this problem. Kids don't count, though; they're too small and flexible to showcase this problem's true difficulty. The best part is, it's on the trail, so everyone walking past you struggling to get up the thing will have a good laugh, too

Andrew Child · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,552

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I put together a categorized list in my second comment

Sam M · · Sydney, NSW · Joined May 2022 · Points: 1

The infamous "Squeeze Test" boulder at Dyurrite/Mt Arapiles which is a squeeze chimney through and out the other side of a split boulder. It has seen full scale rescues, with fire trucks and ambulances etc, after people have gotten completed wedged and had to be painfully hauled out with mechanical advantage.

At Sissy Crag in Sydney, there is a zero move boulder. To tick "The God Move" all you have to do is pull off the ground and hold the position!

The "problem" is one extremely poor sloper in a small, dome-shaped blank roof. It's barely possible to one-arm hang it, by applying huge opposing force to the other side of the dome. If you manage to hold it, it looks like you're levitating, with two flat hands pressed against the underside of the blank dome.

Dan Knisell · · MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 6,412

Ricky Raccoon at Lincoln Woods has some lay down on the huge shelf beta. Thorassic Park, I haven’t tried, but the starting “hold” is folding yourself up under a roof. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
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