Good Options For Medium Duty Trad/Multipitch Harness?

I have a BD Big Gun and a BD Solution harness. The Big Gun takes up a comical amount of space in a 22L multipitch bag, so I don't like using it for normal multipitch free climbing, and it sucks in the heat as it doesn't breath well. 

The BD Solution is on its way out and has needed multiple repairs over the last year to keep it going. I'm not at all pleased with its durability. Maybe I'm hard on harnesses? I tend to break the fabric bit that goes across the lower hard point in lead falls a lot, and I've worn through the fabric on the leg loops in multiple places exposing the core. No doubt due to my less than stellar off width and chimney technique =P

So I'd like a harness that's basically a BD Solution Guide but burlier. 

Mandatory: 

• Super comfy leg loops for hanging belays 
• Doesn't have super giant gear loops such that the rear gear loops are way behind you (how does anyone use these things?) 
• Is more packable than a big wall harness

Nice to haves: 

• Rear gear loop
• Second belay loop (for LRS shenanigans)
• Spacious hard points because sometimes I go aid cragging like the total nerd I am 
• Reinforced lower hard point

Don't really care: 

• Adjustable leg loops
• Four or six gear loops

Are there more packable big wall harnesses? Is the Ocun WeBee more packable than a Big Gun? Maybe something from Metolius or Misty Mountain? 

I wanna hear from you crusty traddies-- any of you found something that's comfy and packable that you've been rocking for a decade? 

Misty Mountain used to let you custom build a harness, looks like that feature is “coming back soon!”

May be worth emailing their customer service to see if they will build one to suit your needs. I’ve been using my Cadillac for almost five years, in what I would describe as medium use (a few times a month, usually bring it for any gear route, has taken some beatings from whips and chimneys) and it’s nearing time to replace it just due to age. Ymmv.

Edit: it doesn’t really pack down into a small bag like that. I just wear it on the approach if I’m only taking a small bag. 

Not sure if they fulfill all of your requirements, but maybe take a closer look at either the Ocun Webee Bigwall or Webee Quattro, harnesses which you have mentioned. I liked the Misty Mountain Cadillac for comfort, but it was pretty bulky to pack. I'd probably go with that one for a big wall (if I ever do one again) and I still have it in my gear box. The BD Big Gun was also too bulky for my taste and very stiff to pack--and I didn't like the double-back buckle system. I am now trying out the Webee Bigwall and it is much lighter and less bulky than the others (much less space in the pack) and is still reasonably comfortable for hanging belays (although, the Cadillac does indeed get better marks for overall comfort). I also like the fast buckle system on the Ocun. I originally ordered the L-XL size Ocun (I'm about 6' 2", 185 pounds) but found the front gear loops way too far forward for my taste, so I changed it out recently for the XS-M and it seems to let the gear hang better (IMHO and YMMV). Not sure yet on durability, but it seems OK so far.

I just went through this exact problem and ended up with. Petzl Adjama and I’m very happy with the choice.  Very comfy and great layout for racking gear on the loops.  Reset loop included and I’ve found it’s quite handy for anchor setup gear.
I have a Solution harness as well that is great but has been relegated to sport climbing duty.  I find the gear loops are not ideal for carrying much trad gear. 

Bd solution tech, technician (my own preference for single pitch trad, less for hanging belays), misty mountain caddilac. Safetech harness is pretty neat too. 

Stay away from Petzel harnesses if do any kind of climbing where your gear loops touch rock. I climb a fair amount of wide stuff and had a gear loop rip and drop a rack of cams.

Cory N wrote:

Stay away from Petzel harnesses if do any kind of climbing where your gear loops touch rock. I climb a fair amount of wide stuff and had a gear loop rip and drop a rack of cams.

Not the first time I've heard this. 

Cory N wrote:

Stay away from Petzel harnesses if do any kind of climbing where your gear loops touch rock. I climb a fair amount of wide stuff and had a gear loop rip and drop a rack of cams.

Oh wow, thank you for this comment! I had remembered hearing some stories about this but forgot about that problem. I was seriously considering the Adjama or whatever it's called, but it's definitely off the list now. My gear loops take a beating.

I just picked up the new MM Cadillac F and I really like it. Eliminates a lot of weight and bulkiness by doing a way with the leg buckles. I was looking for a less bulky trad harness for awhile but came back to the Cadillac for its perfect gear loop configuration.

If you don’t care about gear loops, the Blue Ice Cuesta seems like a great lightweight option.

I second the recommendation to steer clear of Petzl harnesses. I’ve ripped two Petzl gear loops   over the years, one simply ripped off on a bush during a rougher approach, the other stole half of my rack.

Anecdotally BD gear loops are bomber! I once witnessed my buddy anchor himself directly off his gear loops (one on each side, equalized) while cleaning an anchor at Jacks Canyon.

Scary shit, but the incident sold me on the harness. IMO stick with BD.

Hey Ricky, 

I've used the Misty Mountain Cadillac and the BD Big Gun on Walls in the past. I didn't like the floppy loops of the MM and oddly, the "custom" waistbelt never seemed to fit me well.  The Big Gun (old gen.) was pretty uncomfortable after a day of hanging in it.

My current favorite is the Wild Country Syncro. It *does* take up a bit of space in the pack due to the padding and thick gear loops, but worth checking out if you haven't handled one yet.

Honestly, the Black Diamond Momentum is unbeatable. It's cheap, durable, comfy, has nice square loops for gear organization, and if you're intelligent with gear you can rock a triple rack on it and still have room to clip your shoes in. I've climbed tens of thousands of feet all over the country and always find myself back with the classic Momentum whenever I go to change. 

Sounds like you need to buy cheaper harnesses more often since you seem to trash everything. Wait for sales and stock up I suppose

Singing Rock Half Dome!!!!

Second the wild country synchro.  Super comfy.  Petzl adjama is super uncomfortable to hang in.  It's just a thin piece of webbing that goes around behind the padding and it digs in if you weight it long enough.

Misty Mountain Cadillac is hands down the best trad climbing harness ever made. Anything else that even attempts to compete, is just just stealing one feature or another from the Cadillac. But none of them have it all. Ive gone through only 3 in the last 20 years. It’s durable. 

John Clark wrote:

Sounds like you need to buy cheaper harnesses more often since you seem to trash everything. Wait for sales and stock up I suppose

Hey now, I'm only hard on my harnesses and multipitch bags. Hmmm... and ropes (damn quartzite!). And climbing pants, which I put lots of holes in. And I guess I go through rappel biners and Grigris pretty quickly relative to my friends. And I did rip off a chalk bag in a squeeze chimney today. And approach shoes from aid climbing. OK, I may be starting to see your point =P

Salamanizer Ski wrote:

Misty Mountain Cadillac is hands down the best trad climbing harness ever made. Anything else that even attempts to compete, is just just stealing one feature or another from the Cadillac. But none of them have it all. Ive gone through only 3 in the last 20 years. It’s durable. 

I'm having a hard time accepting the idea of the round gear loops. The more I think about it the more I like square gear loops. But they could custom sew in a second belay loop for me... Hmmm.... 

Have you used some harnesses with the square gear loops? Do you find it not a big deal? The little trad climbing I've done on round gear loops has made me not the hugest fan, but there's no arguing with 3 harnesses in 20 years! 

I've been impressed with my guide and will be modding it to improve the durability of the lower tie in point(either a 3d printed part or wrap it in plastic). 

I'd get a guide and mod it while you can, I've carried a triple rack in it and found it to be very comfy and durable.

Edelrid harness's are super comfy and would be great but their face fabrics have the durability of a wet tissue. 

I like my Mammut Togir 2.0 which replaced my BD momentum and Petzl Adjama. Lighter and way more comfortable both movement and sitting-wise than either. Has a 5th rear loop and a haul loop and has big enough front gear loops that I can fit a double rack + alpines + a few draws on the front loop without being overstuffed, and then my double-lengths and anchor/belay stuff go on the back loops. Since I got it last year I've used it on 1-2 mid length (4-8 pitch) multipitch routes per week on avg and 2-3 gym sessions per week and it's been great for both and the padding is showing no signs of wearing thin, nor is anything else.

My one complaint is that the back loops are soft+round, not stiff like the front loops. This is probably nice for mobility's sake or whatever but it does make accessing the back gear a little more annoying. I preferred the loops on my old momentum (an early speed-adjust model) but they seem to be smaller on the newer models.  

The Mammut Comfort does seem to have fixed this one flaw and from the name should be even more comfortable to sit in, but it's also $50 more (unless you find it on sale). 

I just ripped a gear loop on an edilrid harness as well. I ordered a misty mountain caddy f. I will let you know how I like it when it shows up.

Ricky Harline wrote:

Have you used some harnesses with the square gear loops? Do you find it not a big deal? The little trad climbing I've done on round gear loops has made me not the hugest fan, but there's no arguing with 3 harnesses in 20 years! 

Ive had an old Petzl and a couple BD harnesses. I eventually gave them away. I didn’t like how stiff the plastic gear loops are and how they tend to catch on things. Of course, it’s all personal preference. But for me, the low profile floppy gear loops on the Cadillac work best. However, I do not wrack my cams on my harness, because it is a death sentence in chimneys, squeezes and offwidths. I use a gear sling for cams so that I can move my gear out of the way appropriately. The only thing on my harness is alpine slings, nuts, nut tool, reverso and three lockers. But I like climbing the nitty gritty stuff. If you’re a straight in hands and fingers guy, then stiff gear loops to wrack cams and stuff on might be a better option for you. I still like the gear sling better though. I can swing the gear over and grab it with either hand instead of reaching across your body and walking your fingers across your cams to reach something way in the back. It can throw off your balance when I’m in an awkward position trying to climb hard shit.