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Change for the better

Original Post
james parks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

How can the climbing community and the sport itself be improved or changed for the better in your opinion?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Community?

What are your suggestions?

Erik Misiak · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 125

If you sandbag outside routes more, gym climbers would be more discouraged and therefore less impact to the wilderness.

Adam R · · Southwest mostly · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

Crag to gym initiatives, there's air conditioning, yerba mate, and the pink one in the corner! 

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Insurers need to get with the times and certify additional devices for gym usage. In 2023 my gym only allows the Grigri, and I think that's the way in a lot of gyms in North America outside of areas like Squamish, Boulder, etc.

Completely talking out of my ass here, but I can imagine this creates a pseudo monopoly in the ABD industry, leading to stagnant development. Petzl is coming out with the Neox, but they're the only manufacturer incentivised to do so. For any other company to develop a new or improved belay device is probably far too expensive.

Shaun Johnson · · Pocatello, ID · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,509

Less influencers. 

Smaller crowds.

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 5,017

Genuinely, a movement towards folks keeping a wrench, extra set of area appropriate anchor hardware, and a couple of extra wag bags in their bag. More folks volunteering with their local advocacy groups. More mentor/mentee relationships. 

Casey J · · NH · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0
J Lwrote:

Insurers need to get with the times and certify additional devices for gym usage. In 2023 my gym only allows the Grigri, and I think that's the way in a lot of gyms in North America outside of areas like Squamish, Boulder, etc.

Completely talking out of my ass here, but I can imagine this creates a pseudo monopoly in the ABD industry, leading to stagnant development. Petzl is coming out with the Neox, but they're the only manufacturer incentivised to do so. For any other company to develop a new or improved belay device is probably far too expensive.

What? I've never had a single gym blink at me using my ATC.

Ben B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
james parkswrote:

How can the climbing community and the sport itself be improved or changed for the better in your opinion?

Fewer people 

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Casey, that's great! Not the case in any gym I've been to, though I am certainly not as well traveled as many of you. Tried to word my post to avoid any absolutes  

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

A strong crag to gym initiative.

Noah Betz · · Beattyville, KY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 49
ryan climbs wrote:

More bolted choss

security through obscurity, bolt the choss and give it 5 stars => fewer ohio invaders on the good stuff

Aaron K · · Western Slope CO · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 351

I recently moved to a town that lacks a climbing gym, and therefore haven't been to a gym in months. My climbing actually improved and I enjoy it more than ever!

Jeremy Till · · TN · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Casey Jwrote:

What? I've never had a single gym blink at me using my ATC.

My sample size is a few gyms in TN and VA but I've had the same experience. The closest may have been a gym in Richmond VA that had separate certs for braking and ATC, but still 100% allowed ATC. No branding either on the braking category.

I think the resources to learn about different belay devices are plentiful as well. Hard is Easy has a good overview I've shared with people.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
james parkswrote:

How can the climbing community and the sport itself be improved or changed for the better in your opinion?

Ban sport climbing, separate the wheat from the chaff.

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476
james parkswrote:

How can the climbing community and the sport itself be improved or changed for the better in your opinion?

Its a "sport"?!?
News to me.
I've never competed for a metal, or was given a consolation ribbon for showing up. I don't keep score. Not sure who I'm competing against, either.
Occasionally tourists will be "spectators", I guess.

Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,453
Tradibanwrote:

Ban sport climbing, separate the wheat from the chaff.

I SECOND THIS MOTION, SPORT CLIMBING IS NEITHER!

Its a "sport"?!?
News to me.
I've never competed for a metal, or was given a consolation ribbon for showing up. I don't keep score. Not sure who I'm competing against, either.
Occasionally tourists will be "spectators", I guess.

ARE YALL NOT GETTING THE PARTICIPATION TROPHIES THE BEGGINER TRAD LEADERS ARE LEAVING BEHIND? I'VE GOT A WHOLE BOOTY RACK OF PRIZES AT THIS POINT.

MORE SANDBAGGING AND GIVING TERRIBLE ROUTES 4STARS TO DISTRACT THE GUMBOS!!!! I HAVE NEVER BEEN SO TURNED ON PLEASE KEEP TALKING DIRTY TO ME I'LL JOIN YOUR ONLY FANS PAGE!!

C G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 65

Ban Instagram. Haha

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

More bots, more FrankPS

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 17

Stop retrobolting rock climbs because you’re scared 

Darrell Cornick · · Salem, OR · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5

Get rid of online forums and esp IG. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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