Gear bag(s) for multi-pitch

Was looking to get an opinion on types of gear bags for multi-pitch climbs. No big walls but doing a couple of 3-4 pitch climbs and I'd like to do so comfortably without leaving gear st the base. Trango has a sale on a small multi-bag for about $40. 

All about comfort, waterproof, and spacious on potentially 2 mile approaches. Any ideas or recommendations? 

Have you done a search for previous threads on this subject? There have been many.

Okay, I don't wanna flood the site with repeat posts. I'll delete in a bit. I hadn't searched that hard for post such as mine.

We just need an annual gear bag recommendation post xD

FrankPS wrote:

Have you done a search for previous threads on this subject? There have been many.

There have been many on every subject Frank. If not, default to the Rock Resole thread which was the skeleton key for everything MP

18-25 liters seems to be the sweet spot. Lots of great bags out there, get whatever is well reviewed and is on sale. 

Thanks for the responses!  Dr Illogical, that bag may be perfect what my needs are seeking and that bag is 40% off at the time of writing this!

Ricky Harline, is there a bag you personally recommend? 25L bag sounds like it would have a ton of room, I worry what it feels like when you're climbing.  

I've been looking for something comfortable because my large hiking backpack is a bit unwieldy and my smaller day pack doesn't have good storage for rope or my shoes comfortably. 

Patrick L wrote:

Thanks for the responses!  Dr Illogical, that bag may be perfect what my needs are seeking and that bag is 40% off at the time of writing this!

Ricky Harline, is there a bag you personally recommend? 25L bag sounds like it would have a ton of room, I worry what it feels like when you're climbing.  

I've been looking for something comfortable because my large hiking backpack is a bit unwieldy and my smaller day pack doesn't have good storage for rope or my shoes comfortably. 

I have an older BD 22 liter that isn't made anymore, but I can store a double rack inside with all my climbing gear, and the helmet, shoes, and rope on the outside. The Speed 22 seems to be the modern equivalent. I've heard a lot of good things about Mountain Hardwear bags and might do one of those if I were to do it over. 

I'm a tall ass dude but I find my 22 liter super comfy to climb with-- I don't even notice it's there really, unless it's a chimney or off width of course. My 40l in comparison is a total pain in the ass to climb with as it hangs low enough that it's a pain in the ass to climb with, and especially chalking up sucks. No such problems with my 22. 

IMO somewhere around 22L is ideal-- less space and I'd regret going so small, but I rarely have problems fitting all my stuff in it. If I'm doing something super big that requires bivy gear I take the 40L haul pack and a tag line to haul it with on pitches I can't be bothered to have it on me, but with my 22L I never mind it except for the occasional chimney. 

Honestly, most pitches I climb these days I have a pack on me, either the 22 or the 40, but I significantly prefer the 22. If you're a smaller human than myself (I'm 6'3") then going a bit smaller might make sense, but I've heard 20-24L recommended from humans of all sizes, so I think that's around ideal for most of us. I think maybe my next bag a few years down the road will be a 25L from Mountain Hardwear, but I have a lot more holes to put in it before I retire my current one. =) 

I hear amazing things about all sorts of bags whether they Blue Ice or BD or MH or a half dozen other companies where customers seem to rave about their products, so I'm skeptical it really matters that much. If you're pushing the boundaries of ice climbing or doing the nose in a day then maybe these details really matter, but I genuinely think it would be hard for you to go wrong on just a basic multipitch day bag. 

I vote you get whatever is on sale and learn what you do and don't like and get more picky about your next bag 5-10 years down the road. 

I have a smaller bag (Patagonia Linked 18L) that I use for less involved multipitch stuff, and a larger bag (Northface Route Rocket 28L) that I use for more involved/longer approach stuff.

The Wild Country Synchro is a great 20ishL pack that holds a rope and double rack well. It climbs well when close to empty and carries well on the approach, plus it's a lot cheaper than some other options. A pack that you climb with is going to be a wear item unless you never climb any chimneys or corners, so it's better to go cheap IMO.

Beware of the snowball effect, where more gear leads to more gear. Now it takes longer so you bring more food and water...

For a 2 mile approach a pack is nice, but I go minimal in size, padding, weight, not comfortable. Clip your shoes, helmet, etc. on the outside during the approach. Heavy stuff goes inside for the approach. Shoes go in it for the climb. I've picked up partners "empty" bags and they still weigh 10 pounds with things like a pocket knife, bug spray, etc. they never use.

Glowering wrote:

Beware of the snowball effect, where more gear leads to more gear. Now it takes longer so you bring more food and water...

For a 2 mile approach a pack is nice, but I go minimal in size, padding, weight, not comfortable. Clip your shoes, helmet, etc. on the outside during the approach. Heavy stuff goes inside for the approach. Shoes go in it for the climb. I've picked up partners "empty" bags and they still weigh 10 pounds with things like a pocket knife, bug spray, etc. they never use.

that's exactly why I think 22L is a hard ceiling.  I've been climbing with a Petzl Bug (18L) and want to go a little bigger...22L is as big as I'll go

It’s all subjective to what you’re doing exactly.

*If you’re cragging for the day, a bigger pack you can ditch somewhere for the day as a “base camp” might be more convenient. In that case, the haul bag type are nice because they’re rugged, multi purpose (hauling) and rodent resistant. The lighter the weight it is, the less durable it will be. One to five pitches you shouldn’t need a pack for.

*Long approaches and big routes where you don’t come back to the base, nothing bigger than 10L. I’d even go smaller. It should only hold a liter or two of water and a jacket. Shoes, extra bottle, helmet, rope, gear all get carried on the harness or strapped to your back. Food, headlamp etc goes in your pocket. One pack works for two people. I have used a small Camelbak Mule for 20 years on everything from The Palisade traverse to ElCap and Half Dome.
 

*If you’re going car to car, in good weather, with only a mile or two approach and descent, and only doing 3 to 5 pitch routes, then I wouldn’t take a pack at all. There’s nothing you need a pack for on such a route. It will only get in the way and slow you down.

It all depends on what you’re doing, when you’re doing it and your abilities. But less is more when you’re scratching your way up a cliff. The first thing I do with new partners and new or less experienced climbers is to make them ditch all their crap. I don’t even carry water if it’s only 3 pitches or so. No shoes if I’m only walking a half mile on the descent, no messy cordelette junk hanging from the harness etc. Get rid of all that crap. It’s called “free climbing” for a reason. I see these parties all the time spending all day on a 3 pitch route. Both have on daypacks, both have enough water for an adult male for a day in the summer desert, both have a ball of yarn length of cordelette and extra webbing, 6 lockers each, bail bieners and who knows what’s in that fully stuffed backpack. That’s not free climbing, that’s junk hauling. Don’t do that! 

The ideal bag for 3-4p with rap decent to the base, is no bag.

The ideal bag for 3-4p with walkoff is as small as will fit what you want and not throw you off balance. Often this is still no bag.

I've used the Petzl Bug 16L for years and have wanted a new pack for the last couple of seasons but could never convince myself to get one because there wasn't anything specifically wrong with the Bug.  However, I was looking at direct replacements and was really keen on trying the Mystery Ranch Skyline 16L.  Then one day I noticed they offered the Skyline in a 23L and that's when I finally allowed myself to try out a new bag as it wasn't a 1 for 1 replacement and filled a slightly different niche.  While I was able to squeeze everything I needed into the Bug, it was quite a tight fit and didn't allow room for anything extra, even lunch was a challenge.  The larger capacity of the Mystery Ranch Skyline 23L allowed me to pack everything I needed, including double rack and a rope, but it also allowed me to carry extra layers, water, and food.  Once I get to the cliff and rack up, the bag cinches down nice and tight so the extra capacity isn't a hinderance while actually climbing.  Another key feature of the Skyline is the dimensions.  While it is a larger capacity pack than the Bug, it is actually shorter and therefore sits higher on my back while climbing.  If you've ever struggled to chalk up while climbing with a pack you can understand why this was a huge selling point for me.  Needless to say, I'm loving my new pack and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a purpose built, very durable, multi pitch pack.  

Michael Parker wrote:

I've used the Petzl Bug 16L for years and have wanted a new pack for the last couple of seasons but could never convince myself to get one because there wasn't anything specifically wrong with the Bug.  However, I was looking at direct replacements and was really keen on trying the Mystery Ranch Skyline 16L.  Then one day I noticed they offered the Skyline in a 23L and that's when I finally allowed myself to try out a new bag as it wasn't a 1 for 1 replacement and filled a slightly different niche.  While I was able to squeeze everything I needed into the Bug, it was quite a tight fit and didn't allow room for anything extra, even lunch was a challenge.  The larger capacity of the Mystery Ranch Skyline 23L allowed me to pack everything I needed, including double rack and a rope, but it also allowed me to carry extra layers, water, and food.  Once I get to the cliff and rack up, the bag cinches down nice and tight so the extra capacity isn't a hinderance while actually climbing.  Another key feature of the Skyline is the dimensions.  While it is a larger capacity pack than the Bug, it is actually shorter and therefore sits higher on my back while climbing.  If you've ever struggled to chalk up while climbing with a pack you can understand why this was a huge selling point for me.  Needless to say, I'm loving my new pack and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a purpose built, very durable, multi pitch pack.  

if they still had it available in orange...take my money!!!!!

Salamanizer Ski wrote:

It’s all subjective to what you’re doing exactly.

*If you’re cragging for the day, a bigger pack you can ditch somewhere for the day as a “base camp” might be more convenient. In that case, the haul bag type are nice because they’re rugged, multi purpose (hauling) and rodent resistant. The lighter the weight it is, the less durable it will be. One to five pitches you shouldn’t need a pack for.

*Long approaches and big routes where you don’t come back to the base, nothing bigger than 10L. I’d even go smaller. It should only hold a liter or two of water and a jacket. Shoes, extra bottle, helmet, rope, gear all get carried on the harness or strapped to your back. Food, headlamp etc goes in your pocket. One pack works for two people. I have used a small Camelbak Mule for 20 years on everything from The Palisade traverse to ElCap and Half Dome.
 

*If you’re going car to car, in good weather, with only a mile or two approach and descent, and only doing 3 to 5 pitch routes, then I wouldn’t take a pack at all. There’s nothing you need a pack for on such a route. It will only get in the way and slow you down.

This is exactly my approach... 

Except that all my rope bags have backpack style straps, so sometimes for the car to car scenario, I wrap the approach shoes, keys, cellphone etc. in little sac in the rope bag and wear that as a "backpack".  There's no going in and out of it while on the route, but I like not having stuff dangling off the harness.

Petzl Bug. I'm a big fan of mine

I have to give a huge SHOUT-OUT to everyone that's given me advice, information, and a variety of bags to look at. 

Thanks to Dr Illogical, for showing me that sick ice bag that is still 40% off. 

Ricky Harline, for that sick ass Mountain Hardware bag! Moose Jaw has the Scrambler 25L but she's a bit pricey but I'm sure it'll last a decade or so. 

Salamanizer Ski, you are absolutely right as to climbing and traveling light, there's a few taller climbs in the 6-9 pitch range I am looking at and I'm thinking of practicing  on the smaller 3-4 200'-400' routes carrying minimal gear plus water, snacks, nonsense just to get used to leading and following with a pack. 

Michael Parker, the Petzl Bug may be a great option too because of how light the bag is. Not looking to pack too much. I'm already 6'1" 215LBS with a ton of passive trad gear but rather than clipping my approach shoes to my harness and having an innate ability to hoover a ton of water and food on a grade II 9 pitch climb I'm definitely going to get parched and hunger.

Jim Urbec wrote:

if they still had it available in orange...take my money!!!!!

Indeed they do!

Here!

I've only ever used an REI Flash 18 ($40 retail, I got it for 20). The new one doesn't have the neat little webbing loops but it has some different loops on the side that look like they would work really nicely for a helmet carry.

I've never compared it to anything else, but I've had that thing for like 8 years and climbed with it in red rocks, rocky mtn, yosemite, the black canyon, etc and it's always been big enough. It packs down tiny, so sometimes I put it inside a larger bag if I have the luxury of a descent that passes the base of the climb. This way I can wear a slightly bigger bag that carries nicer, and leave an extra water bottle/snack in there, and approach shoes if I'm rapping the route.

Once I ripped it in a chimney, and i just put a little tent repair tape on the inside, good as new. 10/10 would recommend. I've only recently contemplated getting something else, and only for an ice tool carrier and a helmet carry, ideally.