Crag pack recommends: best for comfort?

Hey. I have the mammut, neon gear 45. It’s served me fairly well. It’s durable and fits most everything I need for a full day at the crag. Trad rack etc. The main issue for me is comfort. I’m 6’3” and the hip belt/ carry harness is sized for average height. So loaded up for a long, technical approach, it takes it toll.

I’m interested to hear if anyone’s found the holy grail for crag packs when it comes to comfort. Thanks!

I bought a mystery ranch tower 47 to replace my ortovox trad 35. It is the best pack I have owned in a long time. It has adjustable torso length, is built like a tank, and carries all my stuff like a dream. They are expensive but try to shop their discounts and sales rosacea a few bucks. Stag you get at the price tag is also the guarantee that if something happens to the bag, they will fix it to keep it on the trail. 

Thomas Worsham wrote:

I bought a mystery ranch tower 47 to replace my ortovox trad 35. It is the best pack I have owned in a long time. It has adjustable torso length, is built like a tank, and carries all my stuff like a dream. They are expensive but try to shop their discounts and sales rosacea a few bucks. Stag you get at the price tag is also the guarantee that if something happens to the bag, they will fix it to keep it on the trail. 

"Rosacea"? Besides a skin condition, what does that mean? "Stag you"?

Was your post voice-dictated?

Thomas Worsham wrote:

I bought a mystery ranch tower 47 to replace my ortovox trad 35. It is the best pack I have owned in a long time. It has adjustable torso length, is built like a tank, and carries all my stuff like a dream. They are expensive but try to shop their discounts and sales rosacea a few bucks. Stag you get at the price tag is also the guarantee that if something happens to the bag, they will fix it to keep it on the trail. 

I tried the tower47 on last week and really was intrigued by the fit of the waist belt. After digging into reviews I was dissuaded by a review a guy left where he criticized the carrying harness in good detail. Wasn’t sure if it was updated since his 2020/21 review. (Pictured above) 

But good to hear some positive feedback. How how you like it with a heavy load of gear for long distances? 

Woops. Here’s the review: 

I use Blue Ice Moonlight 55. Its a very comfortable cragging pack, Supergood to carry lots of stuff to the crag, but terrible for any kind of alpine mission or similar. 

Crag wagons are half price on MH outlet right now and have a M/L height option

Not sure about that negative Tower 47 review.  Mine is about a year old so perhaps there was an update to the design but I can carry 35+ pounds with zero problems.    Mystery Ranch makes great packs and has a stellar reputation.  

For real comfort while carrying heavy loads, check out the Hill People Gear brand.  Expensive, but they are top of the line and have a cult following for a reason. The Aston House works good for carrying climbing gear.  

I have found a simple no frills backpacking backpack has been perfect for me. It can carry everything I need and does it very comfortably. I have a mystery ranch pack and have used it as my climbing pack as well as my backpacking backpack for the past 2 years and it has lasted incredibly well. If my approaches were short I would have gotten a smaller crag pack but why spend money on both when a backpacking backpack works fine. 

Echoing the backpacking pack posts.

I have had a few crag packs and they're all lacking. Backpacking packs work great. I also take a 4x4 piece of blue tarp to put my stuff on and that works perfectly. No need for the fancy briefcase style packs with the tarp. 

I have a bd creek pack that is bomb proof and I love the way it opens huge. I was never a big organization guy I just separate all my gear on slings.

But, big but coming through, once you clear 50 lbs or so they are terrifically uncomfortable. I usually carry the most the gear for my partner, and the support system is seriously lacking.

On a solo bolting trip my pack can hit 100 lbs (drill, batteries, bolts, trad gear, aid gear, rope, water…). And to make those trips more difficult it is usually always cross country steep trekking. I’ve found the best option is a burly backpacking bag made for weight. I use a Gregory baltoro and it has been great. And it is much more versatile than a crag pack. 

Thanks everybody for the good input. I’m not surprised to hear multiple people echoing the hiking pack opinion. I had a feeling I would find that carrying a comfortable hiking pack would be the best solution. I ordered a mystery ranch to try. I really like being able to open the back of the mammut to pack and access gear and the tower47 has similar. If that doesn’t work , on the hiking packs…

I like the Patagonia Cragsmith the most (I own it in both sizes). The BD Creek didn't have a good back panel, it felt like I was carrying a sack of potatoes.  

Best for me was the Vaude Hard Rock which they discontinued many years ago of course. But probably the most comfortable pack I used for cragging was the Osprey toddler pack (Poco!?) once my son grew out of it. I put the rope bag in the kid compartment (and/or small haulbag with bolting shit). The rest stows underneath. Or rope can drape across shoulders. You can naturally stand the pack up at the base of the crag. If you get bored, there are usually some kind of toys hanging on it to play with. 

Edit:  the BD creek was a big disappointment 

I have a NF Cinder and love it. Great pack. The waist belt sucks, though, and you'll need to steal one from another pack.

FrankPS wrote:

"Rosacea"? Besides a skin condition, what does that mean? "Stag you"?

Was your post voice-dictated?

May as well have been. I was half asleep laying in bed when I typed that.

Scott Hinkins wrote:

Woops. Here’s the review: 

If you dig far enough you will find reviews like this. They may have updated the design because my pack has a molded plastic sheet that acts as a stiffener and tool for adjusting on the trail. I am able to get it to stand upright without problems and never felt like i was uncomfortable from the construction from the bag. I bought mine in 2022. I have been able to carry water, full sport and trad rack, 12 alpine draws, more carabiners than i would ever need, water, snacks, layers, guidebook, two pairs of shoes and a 70m rope. It gets heavy if I am being lazy about what I am taking to the crag but i have never gotten to my car at the end of the day and celebrated that I didn't have to carry it any more. Reading this review, Gabe just sounds mad that he bought something that isn't as good as what he could make for himself and needed to vent about it.

Abbott Abbott wrote:

I use a Gregory baltoro and it has been great. And it is much more versatile than a crag pack. 

Yup I use this pack too. 65L I think. Love it. I can fit 2-3 pairs of shoes, harness, helmet, sport rack, triple rack of cams, personal gear, 70m rope rope (wrapped in its own tarp), many layers/jackets, snacks, lunch, water, stick clip, and anything else I might need all inside the pack. Nothing draped on top or hanging off it. It carries weight incredibly comfortably. I love having a lid, accessory pockets, and water bottle pockets.

When I get to wherever I'm climbing, I take out my 4x4 blue tarp and lay out what I need on it. When it's time to move, I can just stuff what I need into the pack and/or just wear the pack and carry the tarp. I find this far easier and more convenient than packs that try to open up like a briefcase for easy access. There's no easier access than a tarp on the ground. 

I spent a lot of time in the last two years reading reviews, talking to folks at the crag, trying on packs, and making notes of what is important to me. Not a fan of full zippers. If that thing blows (high probability at some point with a creek rack) you’re hosed. I also don’t feel the need for lots of internal organization. So, burley, comfort and room. Went with Arcteryx Konseal. I’ll be slinging coffee this weekend at the shelf road craggin classic if anyone wants to check it out

Older Gregory Forester here if I have more than a 20 minute approach.  Deuter Pace 36 if I don’t have to carry much.

For comfort, having a rigid frame stay AND frame sheet is key. Padding alone won't suffice. Out of the packs specifically designed for cragging approaches I'm aware of, the MH Crag Wagon is the only one that has this. I'm not sure about the Mystery Ranch, Blue Ice, or North Face Cinder packs though. The BD, Mammut, Metolius, DMM, Trango, Osprey crag packs do not have it. Backpacking packs will be more comfortable, but likely lose some of the convenient features and burly outer fabrics that the crag packs have. If going that route, I've found that all my Gregory packs are really comfortable and usually built a bit tougher that other brands. 

Edit: Looks like the Arcteryx Konseal mentioned does have a frame stay and sheet...