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Z4s vs Aliens

Original Post
Joseph Hill · · Columbia, SC · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 276

Been climbing on Z4s for a year or two but recently got a deal on fixe equipment through work. I was wondering if anyone had any with both Z4s and aliens, and could weigh in on the pros and cons of each. Additionally I was wondering if there was much of a difference between alien revolutions and the new alien Xs. 

Scott D · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I don't have the new Alien X cams but I have a full set of Alien Revolution cams and a full set of Z4's. Both are very good, they have different strengths and weaknesses. 

Alien Revo Pros:

  • really grippy in the rock
  • better range then most single axle cams
  • extremely flexible
  • heads don't kink as easily as other cams
  • extremely light
  • extremely compact
  • nice action in small sizes

Alien Revo cons: 

  • Inconsistent quality control
  • Inconsistent spring tension, some with too little tension. 
  • Not as much range as double axle cams
  • Very flexible, can be harder to place and clean
  • Thumb loops somewhat prone to kinking 
  • Alien color scheme to learn/remember

Z4 pro's:

  • Amazing range in the double axle sizes
  • Strong cam stops in double axle sizes
  • Rigid enough, very easy and fast to place and clean
  • Flexible enough, not prone to walking
  • Great quality control
  • Easy to hand off to partners (standard colors)

Z4 cons:

  • Trigger wires could be beefier
  • Not the most grippy cams, not bad though
  • Stems somewhat prone to kinking at head
  • Single axle sizes have mushy action (but work well)

I use the aliens mostly for aid. I use them for some free climbing on slick rock (eg bullet hard basalt) or if I need triples. 

Z4's are easier to place and clean, easier to evaluate, and faster to use overall. For sizes #0.4 and higher I strongly prefer Z4's.

I use totems all time, they hold better than anything else but they are bulky, heavy, and expensive. I occasionally use C3's, ULMC offsets, and Alien Revo offsets, pretty much exclusively for aid or when there is beta on a specific placement that requires a three lobe cam or Offset. 

Finger size cam rank

  1. Totems
  2. Z4, Zero Friends, Fixe Aliens
  3. Dragonfly, C3, totem basic
  4. ULMC 
Connor Hale · · California · Joined Feb 2022 · Points: 4

Thanks for the write up, it’s good information.

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I just bought some alien x’s to supplement my totem basics and I really like them. Strongly dislike the z4, especially in the smaller sizes. Bigger than a 0.4 I’d be using something else. C4, friend etc…

Joseph Hill · · Columbia, SC · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 276
Graham Johnson wrote:

I just bought some alien x’s to supplement my totem basics and I really like them. Strongly dislike the z4, especially in the smaller sizes. Bigger than a 0.4 I’d be using something else. C4, friend etc…

Interesting. What issues do you have Z4s?

Scott D · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Z4 heads are narrower than C4's (or friends or dragons) which opens up a plethora of new possibilities for placements. The Z4's can be slotted in like nuts in a way that C4's cannot. It's a night and day difference. 

In 2023 I would not buy C4's in sizes under #1 unless soft sandstone was the goal or it was a great deal on used C4's that I could give to a beginner. 

Totems, Z4's, Zero Friends, Dragonflies, Aliens and even ULMC's are a better choice in sizes #0.75 or below. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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