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Chicago climbing scene

Original Post
Tristan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Thinking about a move to Chicago, my question is: How is the Chicago climbing scene?

I have been to several of the gyms in the city, I am more interested in how the community is. Specifically:

- Are there a lot of people who are stoked on going outdoor climbing every weekend?

- Do weekend warriors often take trips to devils lake, jackson falls, and the red?

- Is the community spread out or tight knit, is it cliquey? Is it easy to find partners for the weekend?

- Lots of trad climbers? Or will I be alone in that pursuit?

- Preferences on gyms?

No need to answer all questions, any insight would be appreciated. Feel free to add any detail that I didn't cover!

Daniel · · Chicago, IL · Joined May 2015 · Points: 17

I moved back from CO to Chicago a couple years ago. It’s gonna be different. It is difficult to find people that want to and can consistently make it outside, but it took me a while to find a steady crew in CO as well. Doesn’t help I’m getting older and people have things like kids. The skill level is way lower on average. In CO, I was shit, maybe average on a good day. Here? I’m decent enough. Probably not surprising, outdoor skill sets are in general, pretty underdeveloped, even if they’re decent climbers.

Trad exists, but not gonna be like CO or out west in general. Shorter routes. Devils Lake can be scary to do trad - rock is very hard, but also very slick. And generally single pitch only.

In general, I can usually find people to go out, but especially if you want to go further afield than Devils Lake, it can be a lot harder to find people willing to make the trip. In season, I like to get out 1-3 weekends/month, and that’s probably more than most people I’ve met get outside around here.

Gyms - nice facilities, kinda shit overall. I straight refuse to ever return to Movement, and FA is…mediocre? 

Cliques exist. Those exist everywhere.

So yeah, it’s gonna be a worse climbing scene, but in many ways also just different. No more driving 10 minutes and being at the crag, so it takes a more dedicated group. Which is harder to find because you know, not as popular. The climbing that does exist I actually prefer to what I climbed in CO. Chicago is way cooler than Denver/Boulder as a city.

Joe Bringley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Also moved Chicago -> CO -> Chicago. I would say a decent gauge on the weekend warrior crowd would be to scroll through the history of the Chicago Climbing Community FB page and see how often people are looking for partners to hit DL/the Red/ etc. From my perspective it's definitely not a ton, but it does happen.

The saving grace (and my favorite thing) about Devil's Lake is 99% of routes are TR accessible. If you don't have a partner just get a micro trax and TR solo. Additiionally, if you are from CO the crowds will be significantly less. I climbed @ DL Friday -> Monday this weekend and was able to get on the classic I was looking for every time, no wait. 

I agree with Daniel's point about partners for the Red. But if you just post on the RRG FB page or MP you'll easily find people (or just go to Miguel's). If you do want partners from Chicago to make the drive with you, you're probably better off making friends through gym partners first (just my 2cents).

I do very much disagree with Daniel about the gyms though (no offense, man). I have been to climbing gyms in probably over 25 major cities and FA Humboldt is the the best I've ever been to. Go anytime before 5PM on a weekday and you will have a massive bouldering area completely to yourself. In the mornings I'm able to ARC on a 100ft long section without being in anyones way. FA Block 37 is a little more tech bro-ey but very social and would be good for meeting partners. FA Avondale is a more laid back but very friendly vibe and lots of good rope climbing. There is a partner finder chat that is pretty active.

Daniel · · Chicago, IL · Joined May 2015 · Points: 17

I guess if we’re talking just from a crowd’s perspective, gyms are better. I had nights at ET Golden I just turned around and went home. Don’t have to worry about that here. I rarely go to FA Humboldt or Block 37 so can’t say much about those. Would also agree with crowds at the crag as well - you’ll never get anything even remotely like you will in CO, even at the RRG.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Sounds dangerous.

Nathan Bilthuis · · Demotte IN · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 35

I climb almost exclusively trad in the Chicago area. I frequent Jackson falls and devils lake and am always in need of partners as my main partner for years retired. I think most people here put it well. I don’t climb in a gym, so I can’t speak to that. But generally the skill level is much lower because of what was stated. You’re not ten minutes from crags. People get less rope time a year on average. But many of us travel out west as often as possible and have managed to build decent skill sets. Even if we’re weak af.

Joseph Ramos · · Chicago, IL · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 1

- Are there a lot of people who are stoked on going outdoor climbing every weekend? There are a few out there.  i know of a few

- Do weekend warriors often take trips to devils lake, jackson falls, and the red?  for me.  mostly devils lake.  heading to the red soon.  might do some ice in the winter. J tree in the mix

- Is the community spread out or tight knit, is it cliquey? Is it easy to find partners for the weekend? my anadotal evidence.  cliquey.  

- Lots of trad climbers? Or will I be alone in that pursuit? *raises hand for trad*

- Preferences on gyms?  personally movement.  out of all the climbing gyms has the best lifting area.  otherwise FA/Movement has textured walls, all 3 have pretty tall walls, BKB has 1 location, Movement 2, FA 3...4 if u count the 1 in suburbia  FA Avondale, Schaumburg have ropes. 

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87

As someone who just left Chicago, it is a great city but it is miserable and exhausting if you wanna be climbing outside every weekend. When you make it to the crags, I think they are quite nice (DL is an acquired taste) but driving min 3 hours to get to DL is a hell of a lot different than 15 minutes to Eldo. If you like trad, there is very legit climbing at DL, JF, and the red. You'll find a decent number of people doing weekend trips to the red but I find that drive exhausting and would only make it to KY for 2ish longer trips a year. Good trad partners for DL are harder to come by but a decent number of people willing to go TR or boulder.

I found the gym scene to be quite excellent. FA uptown was my home gym and the community felt very welcoming and tight.

In all I hope you like gym climbing because you will be doing a lot of it, especially in winter. I hope you like driving because you will do a lot of it to climb outside. The only way you will be climbing outside every weekend is if you are very determined and get lucky with weather. Maybe take up sailing, the lake is quite nice. 

Jacob Miller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

There's going to be a period of massive disappointment if climbing is important to you at all. However, I think the dedication amongst the small group of people who make regular trips to Devil's Lake to push their limits on lead is inspiring and one of the few things that keeps me stoked. I think a relatively low number of climbers in Chicago ever have or will climb outdoors. Amongst those there's an even smaller group who will ever climb on gear, and then a tiny fraction who will ever fall on that gear. I think the community you want to look out for is not the Chicago Climbing Community, but the Devil's Lake leading community, as those will be the people who are your partners, take trips with you, etc. They will be the only ones who really have a shared understanding of what "climbing" is. Being a committed trad climber in Chicago is not impossible but it will cost you significantly more in terms of time and money than Boulder. Those miles on I90 add up.

I don't understand the dismissive attitude towards the Chicago area gyms in this thread. I've climbed in probably 20 different gyms across the country and I think the First Ascent gyms are some of the best. I can't comment on Movement or BKB because I have never been. Chicago does not want for quality places to train.

Fish Sticks · · Gayfish · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 0

as someone who lived in Chicago for years- we made weekend trips to the red regularly. Get in your car Friday afternoon, arrive at midnight. Rip rigs Saturday and Sunday morning, drive home. Prove your dedication to the rock gods. 

Fish Sticks · · Gayfish · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 0

as someone who lived in Chicago for years- we made weekend trips to the red regularly. Get in your car Friday afternoon, arrive at midnight. Rip rigs Saturday and Sunday morning, drive home. Prove your dedication to the rock gods. 

Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31

Lived in Chi for five years and my best piece of advice is to live and/or work near a climbing gym (any gym).  Public transport is generally excellent, but it can take a while to get anywhere.  I would suggest if possible living near one of the gyms and that way you can have easy access and make friends - people are generally VERY friendly especially in climbing gyms

At least that was my experience - I lived near a gym with ropes and went there all the time and made some really good friends/climbing partners

Dave Hug · · Carbondale, IL · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 12,225

Get a partner and drive to Ferne Clyffe. Super easy access and a lot of good new routes. If it’s too cold, check out Cedar Bluff. It bakes on sunny winter days. 

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,339

Get ready for a lot of driving. It's not hard at all to find a regular weekend warrior crew if you're psyched and competent. 

Frankly, the sport options in the midwest are substantially better than the trad options. RRG/SoILL have world class sport climbing. Devils Lake just doesn't stack up (and the trad at the former two aren't as outstanding as the sport). Maybe it's just me but short single pitch trad is kind of a bummer, while even 50ft tall overhung sport is pretty sick. When in Rome...

Not sure how things have changed in the last half decade but it used to be super tight-knit, especially if you climb fairly hard and want to get outside often.

Also, the bouldering in the midwest is great. Don't knock it 'til you try it. Probably my favorite of anywhere I've lived: short approaches, dense problems thanks to the many steep featured sandstone cliff lines, flat landings, and less crowds. 

First Ascent all day, gym-wise. Better setting, better scene, etc.

Jamie Pivot · · Ely, IA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 3,527
Steven Schroeder wrote:

Can’t speak for indoor Chicago climbing but living in NE Iowa we get folks sport climbing around here every weekend that are out of Chicago. It’s a 3 hr drive but good climbing.
Although Pictured Rocks gets the most attention, it’s far from the best climbing in this area. There are many other quality crags nearby, all bolted on public lands that are not listed on MP.

Where exactly are the areas with bolted route that are not list on MP? I am quite familiar with the outdoor climbing available and am unaware of anything not listed publicly? 

J P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
MattH wrote:

Also, the bouldering in the midwest is great. Don't knock it 'til you try it. Probably my favorite of anywhere I've lived: short approaches, dense problems thanks to the many steep featured sandstone cliff lines, flat landings, and less crowds. 

Where exactly in the midwest are these steep, featured sandstone cliff lines? Holy Boulders? 

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,339

Here's the areas I had in mind - there are others but these are the ones I've climbed at and remember fondly:

WI: Gov Dodge Group Camp B. High cliff (limestone but still steep and featured)

IL: the Graveyard, Holy Boulders, Cedar Bluff, Hellhole, Giant City, The Roost, the Spot, etc

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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