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Scarpa Boostic or La Sportiva Katana Lace?
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Let me begin by saying that I currently own the new version of the Katana lace, It is very well built, a bit more aggressive in its downturn and asymmetry (or at least a more pointed and defined toe), it feels a bit more supportive (stiffer) than the previous model (which I loved) and the break in period is long and painful. I have a very wide forefoot and Scarpa tends to fit me better but the old Katana Laces fit like a glove once they had broken in and were my go to shoe for most trad climbs and even some sport climbing here in the White Mountains. I am looking specifically for a stiff edging machine that will handle steep slab and vertical face climbing (micro edges). The Katanas are pretty damned good at this but the slingshot rand is causing incredible pain and tissue damage on my heels. I can barely stand getting through a 40-50M pitch. Has anyone out there used the new Boostics? How does the heel feel and what is the break in period like? Are we comparing apples to apples here or apples to oranges? I know foot shape, weight and experience all play into the equation. I have been climbing for over 35 years....damn...almost 40 actually …ugh. Anyway. Just wanted to hear some thoughts. I may just stick with the Katanas but I have heard some great things about the Boostics specifically in the types of steep environments mentioned. Go... |
Chris Graham wrote: If you are looking for a super stiff edging machine, the (new) Boostics may not be what you are looking for. The reputation of this shoe is based on the original Boostic, but for the current updated version they softened it up a lot and made it more of a typical medium-stiff sport climbing shoe, rather than the uber-stiff edging machine it used to be. For NH granite trad climbing, seeking support and comfort, have you considered going for a stiff hightop? The TC Pros probably aren't for you either (same issue as the Katanas regarding high heel tension). But if Scarpa fits you well, maybe the new Scarpa Generator? Lowtop and hightop versions available. I haven't tried them, but rumored to be quite stiff. Doesn't have the pointed toe of the Katana or Boostic though. |
JCM wrote: All great suggestions. I have the TC Pros and they used to be pretty comfy but I find I have to take them off at belays which is OK. I bought a pair of the Generators and got them in a comfy size. I tried them on the routes I eluded to and they were just a bit too sloppy for the micro edges I encounter on these steep thin lines. The Katanas are pretty damned good. Probably the best in my quiver currently for just this type of climbing. I sized them small (ish) and will probably just stick with them for this type of climbing. The generators solve the heel pain problem and will be my all day trad shoes when guiding or doing multi-pitch climbs. Definitely a kinder fit on my old dogs for sure!!! Thanks for the heads up on the Boostic!! I didn't realize that the new model is a bit softer than the original version! |
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i know a few people who went to tenaya after having the same problems with the heel tension of sportiva and they were very happy |
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As someone that loved the old boostics for thin techy granite climbing, a new option you might consider that have become my new favorite is the tenaya mastia. They have performed equal to the boostics on thin edges, but I've also done decent in cracks, and once broken in they have been more comfortable then the boostic. |
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+1 to Mastia for comfort and an all around nice shoe, though I personally find them less stiff than Katanas, especially when broken in. |
Chris Graham wrote: I've found that those stiff trad shoes (TCs, Katana, presumably Generator also) can be worn in a wide range of sizes, with major changes to the performance and comfort characteristics based on sizing. They can be a comfy clog or a super tight edging machine, or various points in between, based on sizing. For example, the tightest shoes in my quiver currently are a super tight pair of TCs I use on some varieties of hard trad climbs, and on slab/vert granite boulders. They're the best shoes I own for granite micro edging/smedging on vert/slab. Buy I also have a pair of TCs a full 2 number sizes larger for comfy wear on long moderate trad climbs. Essentially, totally different shoes with different performance and use cases. Anyway, moral of the story is to not necessarily judge the potential of the Generator or TC based on the characteristics of your comfy pair. A tighter pair of Generators might be the shoe you are looking for on harder granite edging. |
JCM wrote: I've climbed in both iterations of the Boostics and while I agree that the new ones are softer, they are still quite stiff. I would say they are now a stiff sport climbing shoe vs. a stiff trad/all day shoe. I've loved how the new ones perform on dime edges, but I doubt you'll want to be standing on those dime edges all day. They are significantly more streamlined than the old ones were. As much as I loved them, the old boostics sometimes felt quite clunky with how big the toe box was and how stiff to the point of losing sensitivity they were. Someone on this site described the change as going from a stiff, all day granite shoe to a stiff, single pitch limestone shoe. I think this is an apt description of the shoe. Still sounds like they probably aren't what the OP is looking for, but as far as single pitch precision edging, they are awesome. Haven't tried them in cracks, but I imagine they'd be pretty painful. The streamlined toebox has less rubber on top for protection. They'd definitely fit in smaller cracks than the OG Boostics though. Edit to add: The new Boostics were my go to shoe for Rumbling Bald (gneiss/granite) bouldering the last couple years and they were sick. Didn't even bring other shoes by the end of my time around there. That's about the extent of my granite climbing experience |
Prav C wrote: Ditto. I have a pair of these as well and they are very comfortable in the heel. They are pretty good on edge as well, but I should have sized down a bit for the thinner edges. I may try them again and see what I think but I am definitely looking for a stiffer shoe (which they stopped making back in the late 90's it seems). I do like Ocun as well, but there is still a bit of a heel issue....all these slingshot rands...sigh |
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I have a wider forefoot too, and unfortunately can't wear the Katana Laces. Other than TC Pros, I've found that Otakis can work well for sub vertical edging/smedging, and they definitely fit better in the forefoot area. Same with the Scarpa Vapor Lace, though not quite as stiff as the KL, TC, or Otaki. |
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Otaki - mild downturn, stiff and edging machine, wide forefoot |
MauryB wrote: sold!! I'll check them out!! |
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Grammy, Consider Butora's selection of wide shoes (the come narrow or wide) and the Altura is the stiffest shoe I have used for all day comfort. They will take some time to break-in with how stuff, but are excellent. Unfortunately, the Altura does not have a pointy toe like the Katanas. The other shoe I like for my wide foot, is an iteration of the Five-Ten Blanco/Pink, is Unparallel's Up Lace. These shoes fit me great, just like the old Five-Ten Anasazi lasts. La Sportiva's shoes, like TC Pros didn't fit my wide foot. FWIW, I've wanted to wear Boostics, but haven't found any in a size 12/46. Cheers, Ben |
ben smith wrote: |
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Awesome!!! Thanks Ben!! I hope you’re doing well my brother!! It’s been a long time :) |
